Clipping: Difference between revisions
Redirected page to Quickdraw#clipping Tag: New redirect |
Migrated clipping content from the quickdraw page Tag: Removed redirect |
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<languages/> | |||
{{Infobox gear | |||
| uses = Lead climbing, mountaineering | |||
}} | |||
For [[singlepitch|lead-climbing]], it is crucial to be able to clip the [[quickdraw]] reliably and with ease. | |||
== Clipping with fingers == | |||
{{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery_with_widths | |||
|File:Clipping fingers step1.png | |||
|150px | |||
|Grab the rope between the thumb and the index finger. | |||
|File:Clipping fingers step2.png | |||
|120px | |||
|Use the middle finger to hold the carabiner in place. | |||
|File:Clipping fingers step3.png | |||
|120px | |||
|Push the rope against the carabiner gate while keeping the carabiner in place by middle finger. | |||
|File:Clipping fingers step4.png | |||
|120px | |||
|The rope slips into the carabiner. | |||
|File:Clipping fingers step5.png | |||
|120px | |||
|And gets clipped. | |||
}} | |||
This clipping method works only with the ''right hand - carabiner gate faces left'', or with the ''left hand - gate faces right''. If the gate faces the opposite side, use the second method in clipping with hand section. | |||
== Clipping with hand == | |||
{{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery_with_widths | |||
|File:Clipping hand step1.png | |||
|150px | |||
|Pull the rope by the thumb as illustrated. | |||
|File:Clipping hand step2.png | |||
|120px | |||
|Use the rest of the fingers to hold the carabiner in place. | |||
|File:Clipping hand step3.png | |||
|120px | |||
|Push the rope against the carabiner gate by your thumb. | |||
|File:Clipping hand step4.png | |||
|120px | |||
|And the rope gets clipped. | |||
}} | |||
This clipping method works only with the ''right hand - carabiner gate faces left'', or with the ''left hand - gate faces right''. If the gate faces opposite side, use the method below. | |||
{{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery | |||
|120px | |||
|File:Clipping hand rgate step1.png | |||
|Pull the rope by the index finger as illustrated. | |||
|File:Clipping hand rgate step2.png | |||
|Use the hand to hold the carabiner in place. | |||
|File:Clipping hand rgate step3.png | |||
|Push the rope against the carabiner gate by your index finger. | |||
|File:Clipping hand rgate step4.png | |||
|And the rope gets clipped. | |||
}} | |||
While using this method, keep your fingers outside of the carabiner body, pushing only the rope through the gate. This clipping method works only with the ''right hand - carabiner gate faces right'', or with the ''left hand - gate faces left''. If the gate faces opposite side, use the methods above. | |||
== Risks == | |||
Aside from [[Carabiner#Safe-use_recommendations|safety recommendations for carabiners]], there are few more rules to follow while clipping quickdraws. | |||
{{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery_with_widths | |||
|File:QD_corect.png | |||
|120px | |||
|Position the carabiner in a way that the gate is pointed away from the direction of climb. | |||
|File:QD_warn_gate.png | |||
|120px | |||
|Improper positioning of the gate can lead to unclipping of the carabiner during a fall. | |||
|File:QD_warn_backclip_wronggate.png | |||
|120px | |||
|Backclipping of the carabiner is also risky as it might also lead to the uncliping of the carabiner. | |||
|File:qd_double.png | |||
|140px | |||
|If direction of the climb is uncertain, securing can be done by placing two carabiners with gates pointed in the opposite directions. | |||
|File:qd_screw.png | |||
|140px | |||
|alternatively, carabiner with a screw-gate can be used for the same purpose. | |||
}} | |||
=== Self-unclipping of the rope during a fall === | |||
If the carabiner is positioned and/or clipped wrong, the lead climber risks that the rope unclips itself from the carabiner during a fall. The risk increases if the carabiner is back-clipped. | |||
{{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery | |||
|140px | |||
|File:qd_gatefall_step1.png | |||
|Falling into an incorrectly placed quickdraw poses a risk. | |||
|File:qd_gatefall_step2.png | |||
|During a fall, the rope might push against the gate of the carabiner. | |||
|File:qd_gatefall_step3.png | |||
|Then slip through the gate of the carabiner. | |||
|File:qd_gatefall_step4.png | |||
|And release itself. | |||
}} | |||
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