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Figure eight: Difference between revisions

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The '''Figure-eight loop''' is the most used knot for tying-in and one of the two widely accepted knots for tying-in at the end of the rope (the second being the re-threaded bowline). It is popular for its reliability and clarity, which makes it easy to inspect. It can be hard to untie after hard lead falls, especially if not tied properly. Its figure-8 bend variant is [[#Rolling|prone to roll]].
The '''Figure-eight loop''' is the most common way how to tie onto the rope. Together with a re-threaded bowline, it is one of the two widely accepted knots for tying-in at the rope end. It is popular for its reliability and visual clarity, which makes it easy to inspect. It can be difficult to untie after bigger lead falls, especially if it was not properly [[#Preventing from getting stuck|pre-tightened]]. Closely related figure-8 bend knot is [[#Rolling|prone to roll]].


== Tying ==
== Tying ==
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The inspection described in the last step should be also done as a part of the partner check.
The inspection described in the last step should be also done as a part of a partner check.


=== On a bight (tie in in a middle) ===
=== On a bight (tie in in a middle) ===

Revision as of 06:58, 28 September 2025

Figure eight
Other namesFigure 8, eight
Use(s)Tying onto the rope end/middle, end-knot (single strand, marking)
ProsReliable, easy to inspect, low decrease of the rope strength
ConsTedious to untie after a lead fall in some cases, figure-eight bend is prone to rolling
CategoryKnot
Strength~60-80% in normal (non-ring) load. Differs by author, type of measurement and rope[1]

The Figure-eight loop is the most common way how to tie onto the rope. Together with a re-threaded bowline, it is one of the two widely accepted knots for tying-in at the rope end. It is popular for its reliability and visual clarity, which makes it easy to inspect. It can be difficult to untie after bigger lead falls, especially if it was not properly pre-tightened. Closely related figure-8 bend knot is prone to roll.

Tying

Follow-through (tie-in on the rope end)

This method is the most commonly used method for tying-in onto a rope end.

  • Take a bight of a rope and turn its one end around the other, making a full 360° turn (1)
  • Pull the rope through the upper eye (2), creating a figure-eight knot
  • Pull the rope through both eyes of a harness next to the belay loop (3)
  • Continue by following-through... (4)
  • ... the original figure-eight (5)...
  • ... knot (6)
  • Tighten the rope ends one at a time (7,8,9,10)
  • Inspect the knot and check if the loop is threaded through the harness correctly (11)

The inspection described in the last step should be also done as a part of a partner check.

On a bight (tie in in a middle)

Steps description: Take a bight of a rope and do a half-turn around itself (1,2). Then pull the bight through the loop made by the turn (3) and slightly tighten the knot (4). If the knot is malformed, dress it properly for easier checking (5) and once finished, inspect the knot (6).

Preventing from getting stuck

Figure 8 tends to get hard to untie in some cases. To prevent the issues, always dress the knot and tie the form where the load strand goes in a bigger diameter around closer to the center of the knot as illustrated below. This variant also has a slightly higher loading limit (10% difference, both variants are completely safe).[2] As well studied and well-documented/illustrated by Hard is Easy,[3] if the figure 8 is not dressed and tightened properly before loading it, it tends to malform substantially after taking a fall, resulting in a knot which is hard and sometimes even almost impossible to untie. Rope parameters (diameter, stiffness) also play a role. Last very important parameter discovered was if the load strand goes on the top of the knot, or in the middle of the knot.

Rolling

The Figure 8 bend knot can capsize and roll over itself already around 3 kN of force (then it snaps). For that reason it is not an ideal knot for tying two ropes together.[4] There are speculations that the using of Figure 8 bend knot during rapelling is the reason why overhand-bend knot is known as an European Death knot in US.[5]

References

  1. EDELRID Team (20 October 2020). "Strength reduction of textile materials by knots". edelrid. EDELRID GmbH & Co. KG. Retrieved 10 August 2025.
  2. Žižka, John Jiří; Kříž, Bolek Karel (16 September 2002). "Metodické ústřižky III". lezec.cz. EnergyCloud Trade, s.r.o. Archived from the original on 26 February 2024. Retrieved 16 August 2025.
  3. Hard is easy (29 August 2020). Why Figure 8 knot is NOT hard to untie!. Hard is Easy. Retrieved 16 August 2025.
  4. Hellberg, Florian (14 August 2023). "Knots for connecting ropes when rappelling - a comparison". edelrid. EDELRID GmbH & Co. KG. Retrieved 16 August 2025.
  5. Moyer, Thomas (11 September 1999). "Pull Tests of the "Euro Death-Knot"". xmission.com. Archived from the original on 29 July 2025. Retrieved 16 August 2025.