Prusik knot: Difference between revisions
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'''Prusik knot''' (technically a hitch) is a very versatile hitch used in abseiling, pulley systems, Prusiking up the ropes. In some of the applications it can be replaced by tibloc and various traxions and similar devices which provides improved comfort of use by unidirectionally moving seamlessly on the rope while providing the same stopping functionality as Prusik. | '''Prusik knot''' (technically a hitch) is a very versatile hitch used among other applications in abseiling, pulley systems, and Prusiking up the ropes. In some of the applications it can be replaced by tibloc and various traxions and similar devices which provides improved comfort of use by unidirectionally moving seamlessly on the rope, while providing the same stopping functionality as Prusik. | ||
== Tying == | == Tying == | ||
Number of loops varies based on | Number of loops varies based on desired amount of friction. | ||
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|Test if it blocks (4) | |Test if it blocks (4) | ||
|File:prusik_step5.png | |File:prusik_step5.png | ||
| | |Inspect the hitch (5) | ||
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== Diameter recommendations == | == Diameter recommendations == | ||
Based on the cord load limits, 5 mm (5.1 kN) and 6 mm (10 kN) reep cords are generally recommended for tying Prusiks.<ref>{{cite web | url=https://www.mytendon.com/en/products/accessories/accessory-cords/c-23/ | title=Acessory cords | publisher=LANEX a.s. | author=LANEX a.s. | website=tendon.cz | access-date=16 August 2025}}</ref> General rule of a thumb is that to ensure a reliable blocking, Prusik cord diameter should be roughly 1/2 of a diameter of the rope on which the Prusik is tied. For a standard climbing rope (~9.7 mm), the slightly-above-recommendation 6 mm cord has the advantage that it is easier to loosen and its loading limit is twice the one of the 5 mm cord. However, in some rope-Prusik combinations, it might not block readily enough. In some cases, 5 mm Prusik is nearly impossible to loosen under and after load. Testing in safe environment is therefore highly recommended both for the 5 mm and the 6 mm cord. | |||
Based on the cord load limits, 5 mm (5.1 kN) and 6 mm (10 kN) reep cords are generally recommended for tying Prusiks.<ref>{{cite web | url=https://www.mytendon.com/en/products/accessories/accessory-cords/c-23/ | title=Acessory cords | publisher=LANEX a.s. | author=LANEX a.s. | website=tendon.cz | access-date=16 August 2025}}</ref> General rule of a thumb is that to ensure reliable blocking, Prusik cord should | |||
== References == | == References == | ||
Revision as of 07:37, 28 September 2025
| Prusik knot | |
|---|---|
 | |
| Other names | Prusik, Prusik hitch |
| Use(s) | abseiling, advanced rope techniques including (self-)rescue techniques |
| Pros | Fast, clean, just an accessory cord or a sling needed |
| Cons | Compared to traxion, tiblocs and such it is a bit tedious to get loosen in some cases and it must be moved actively |
| Category | Hitch |
| Strength | ~5-8 kN when a 5-7mm accessory cord is used[1] |
Prusik knot (technically a hitch) is a very versatile hitch used among other applications in abseiling, pulley systems, and Prusiking up the ropes. In some of the applications it can be replaced by tibloc and various traxions and similar devices which provides improved comfort of use by unidirectionally moving seamlessly on the rope, while providing the same stopping functionality as Prusik.
Tying
Number of loops varies based on desired amount of friction.
Wrap an accessory cord around the rope (1) 
Do it few more times (2) 
Dress the Prusik by pulling the rest of the accessory cord (3) 
Test if it blocks (4) 
Inspect the hitch (5)
Diameter recommendations
Based on the cord load limits, 5 mm (5.1 kN) and 6 mm (10 kN) reep cords are generally recommended for tying Prusiks.[2] General rule of a thumb is that to ensure a reliable blocking, Prusik cord diameter should be roughly 1/2 of a diameter of the rope on which the Prusik is tied. For a standard climbing rope (~9.7 mm), the slightly-above-recommendation 6 mm cord has the advantage that it is easier to loosen and its loading limit is twice the one of the 5 mm cord. However, in some rope-Prusik combinations, it might not block readily enough. In some cases, 5 mm Prusik is nearly impossible to loosen under and after load. Testing in safe environment is therefore highly recommended both for the 5 mm and the 6 mm cord.
References
- ↑ Jenks, Ryan (16 June 2021). Prusik, Auto Blocks, and Klemheist Break Tests. HowNOT2. Retrieved 16 August 2025.
- ↑ LANEX a.s. "Acessory cords". tendon.cz. LANEX a.s. Retrieved 16 August 2025.