Climbopedia

Munter hitch: Difference between revisions

← Older edit
Added reference to the munter finger and did small readability refinements
m Added review state
 
(7 intermediate revisions by the same user not shown)
Line 10: Line 10:
| category = Hitch
| category = Hitch
}}
}}
{{messagebox_checkstate}}


<!--T:2-->
<!--T:2-->
Munter hitch (also known as HMS) is a knot used for belaying when a belay device is unavailable or impractical. For its simplicity, it is often employed in the advanced rope techniques, including rescue techniques.
'''Munter hitch''' (also known as '''HMS''') is a knot used for belaying when a belay device is unavailable or impractical. For its simplicity, it is often employed in advanced rope techniques, including rescue techniques.


== Tying == <!--T:10-->
== Tying == <!--T:10-->
Line 52: Line 54:
|Screw the safety-lock (5)
|Screw the safety-lock (5)
|File: Hms_harness_step5.png
|File: Hms_harness_step5.png
|Inspect that everything is correct (6) and pull the break-strand (7) to test if the munter hitch flips into another munter
|Inspect that everything is correct (6) and pull the break-strand (7) to test if the Munter hitch flips into another Munter
}}
}}


<!--T:16-->
<!--T:16-->
== Belaying ==
== Belaying ==
Always hold the break strand! Belaying with Munter hitch is reliable and reasonably comfortable. In works smoothly when not loaded, but provides plenty of friction to catch a fall once tensioned. It works at any angle of the brake strand. The main drawback is that if the rope is pulled through the hitch under load, it tends to tangle the rope, which is the main reason why it is now used only rarely.
Always hold the break strand! Belaying with Munter hitch is reliable and reasonably comfortable. In works smoothly when not loaded, but provides plenty of friction to catch a fall once tensioned. It works at any angle of the brake strand. The main drawback is that if the rope is pulled through the hitch under load (for example during belaying of the second climber or during abseiling), it tends to tangle the rope, which is together with the rope abrasion the main reasons why it is now used only rarely.


<!--T:18-->
<!--T:18-->
=== Belaying risks ===
=== Belaying risks ===
Belayer should keep their fingers at a respectful distance from the knot. Otherwise they might risk jamming the fingers into the belay, which might result in a severe finger injury.<ref>{{cite web | url=https://rescue2training.com/tying-a-munter-hitch-around-an-object/ | title=Tying a Munter Hitch Around an Object (updated) | publisher=Rescue 2 Training | website=Rescue2Training.com | access-date=25 September 2025 | url-status=live | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20250925045809/https://rescue2training.com/tying-a-munter-hitch-around-an-object/ | archive-date=25 September 2025}}</ref> Belayer should also ensure to tie the Munter in a way that it wont interfere with the carabiner gate/lock. Otherwise the rope friction might unlock, and maybe even open the carabiner gate.
Belayer should keep their fingers at a respectful distance from the knot. Otherwise they might risk jamming the fingers into the belay, which might result in a severe finger injury.<ref>'''Warning - Gore''': {{cite web | url=https://rescue2training.com/tying-a-munter-hitch-around-an-object/ | title=Tying a Munter Hitch Around an Object (updated) | publisher=Rescue 2 Training | website=Rescue2Training.com | access-date=25 September 2025 | url-status=live | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20250925045809/https://rescue2training.com/tying-a-munter-hitch-around-an-object/ | archive-date=25 September 2025}}</ref> Belayer should also ensure to tie the Munter in a way that it wont interfere with the carabiner gate/lock. Otherwise the rope friction might unlock, and maybe even open the carabiner gate.


<!--T:19-->
<!--T:19-->
Line 77: Line 79:
|120px
|120px
|... tie the Munter in a way that it does not interfere with the carabiner gate/lock
|... tie the Munter in a way that it does not interfere with the carabiner gate/lock
|File: hms_belay_left_top.png
|File: hms_belay_left_bot.png
|120px
|120px
|Otherwise the rope friction might unlock...
|Otherwise the rope friction might unlock...
|File: hms_belay_left_bot.png
|File: hms_belay_left_top.png
|120px
|120px
|... or even open the carabiner during belaying
|... or even open the carabiner during belaying
Line 87: Line 89:
<!--T:20-->
<!--T:20-->
== Tie-off - Mule overhand ==
== Tie-off - Mule overhand ==
This is the most recognized method to tie-off the mule overhand to set your hands free. The tie-off consists from a slipknot and then overhand knot, both of which are tied around the life end of the rope. As both of these knots are tied with a bight and rope is also pulled through the carabiner, it takes practice to be able to inspect an tie the tie-off reliably.
To set your hands free from belaying, tie-off the mule overhand. The tie-off consists from a slipknot followed by an overhand knot. Both of them are tied around the sharp end of the rope. The knot looks very tangled as both of these knots are tied with a bight and the rope is also pulled through the carabiner. It takes practice to reliably tie and inspect the tie-off.


<!--T:21-->
<!--T:21-->
Line 96: Line 98:
|File: hms_tieoff_step2_p8w.png
|File: hms_tieoff_step2_p8w.png
|160px
|160px
|Create a loop (2)
|Make a loop (2)
|File: hms_tieoff_step3_p8w.png
|File: hms_tieoff_step3_p8w.png
|160px
|160px
Line 105: Line 107:
|File: Munter_tieoff_step5.png
|File: Munter_tieoff_step5.png
|200px
|200px
|Grab the bight with a hand (5) and simultaneously take slack out of the system while releasing the other hand (6), note that the break strand is always being held during this step
|Grab the bight with a hand (5) and simultaneously take slack out of the system while releasing the other hand (6), note that the break strand is still always being held during this step
|File: hms_tieoff_step7_p8w.png
|File: hms_tieoff_step7_p8w.png
|160px
|160px
Line 120: Line 122:
}}
}}


<!--T:22-->
== Alternative tying methods == <!--T:22-->
== Alternative tying methods ==


<!--T:4-->
<!--T:4-->
Line 140: Line 141:
|File: Hms hand step4.png
|File: Hms hand step4.png
|120px
|120px
|Visually inspect if everything is correct (5) and as a final check pull the break-strand (6) to see if the munter hitch flips into another munter
|Visually inspect if everything is correct (5) and as a final check pull the break-strand (6) to see if the Munter hitch flips into another Munter
}}
}}


Line 163: Line 164:
|Visually inspect that everything is correct (7) and pull the break-strand (8)...
|Visually inspect that everything is correct (7) and pull the break-strand (8)...
|File: hms_step7.png
|File: hms_step7.png
|... to see if the munter hitch flips into another munter hitch as a final check
|... to see if the Munter hitch flips into another Munter hitch as a final check
}}
}}


<!--T:26-->
== References ==
== References ==
{{reflist}}
{{reflist}}


</translate>
</translate>
Retrieved from "https://www.climbopedia.org/index.php?title=Munter_hitch"