Munter hitch: Difference between revisions
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Munter hitch (also known as HMS) is a knot used for belaying when a belay device is unavailable or impractical. For its simplicity, it is often employed in | '''Munter hitch''' (also known as '''HMS''') is a knot used for belaying when a belay device is unavailable or impractical. For its simplicity, it is often employed in advanced rope techniques, including rescue techniques. | ||
== Tying == <!--T:10--> | == Tying == <!--T:10--> | ||
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|Screw the safety-lock (5) | |Screw the safety-lock (5) | ||
|File: Hms_harness_step5.png | |File: Hms_harness_step5.png | ||
|Inspect that everything is correct (6) and pull the break-strand (7) to test if the | |Inspect that everything is correct (6) and pull the break-strand (7) to test if the Munter hitch flips into another Munter | ||
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== Belaying == | == Belaying == | ||
Always hold the break strand! Belaying with Munter hitch is reliable and reasonably comfortable. In works smoothly when not loaded, but provides plenty of friction to catch a fall once tensioned. It works at any angle of the brake strand. The main drawback is that if the rope is pulled through the hitch under load, it tends to tangle the rope, which is the main | Always hold the break strand! Belaying with Munter hitch is reliable and reasonably comfortable. In works smoothly when not loaded, but provides plenty of friction to catch a fall once tensioned. It works at any angle of the brake strand. The main drawback is that if the rope is pulled through the hitch under load (for example during belaying of the second climber or during abseiling), it tends to tangle the rope, which is together with the rope abrasion the main reasons why it is now used only rarely. | ||
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<!--T:22--> | == Alternative tying methods == <!--T:22--> | ||
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|File: Hms hand step4.png | |File: Hms hand step4.png | ||
|120px | |120px | ||
|Visually inspect if everything is correct (5) and as a final check pull the break-strand (6) to see if the | |Visually inspect if everything is correct (5) and as a final check pull the break-strand (6) to see if the Munter hitch flips into another Munter | ||
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|Visually inspect that everything is correct (7) and pull the break-strand (8)... | |Visually inspect that everything is correct (7) and pull the break-strand (8)... | ||
|File: hms_step7.png | |File: hms_step7.png | ||
|... to see if the | |... to see if the Munter hitch flips into another Munter hitch as a final check | ||
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== References == | == References == | ||
{{reflist}} | {{reflist}} | ||
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