Prusik knot: Difference between revisions

Refined the explanation regarding diameter, changed the illustration layout, slightly rewrote the tying guide
Added review state
 
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{{Infobox knot
{{Infobox knot
| image = File: Prusik.jpg
| image = File: Prusik.jpg
| other_names = Prusik, prusik hitch
| other_names = Prusik, Prusik hitch
| pros = Fast, clean, just an accessory cord or a sling needed
| pros = Fast, clean, just an accessory cord or a sling needed
| cons = Compared to traxion, tiblocs and such it is a bit tedious to get loosen in some cases and it must be moved actively
| cons = Compared to traxion, tiblocs and such it is a bit tedious to get loosen in some cases and it must be moved actively
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}}
}}


Prusik knot (technically a hitch) is a very versatile hitch used in abseiling, pulley systems, prusiking up the ropes. In some of the applications it can be replaced by tibloc and various traxions and similar devices which provides improved comfort of use by unidirectionally moving seamlessly on the rope while providing the same stopping functionality as prusik.
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'''Prusik knot''' (technically a hitch) is a very versatile hitch used among other applications in abseiling, pulley systems, and Prusiking up the ropes. In some of the applications it can be replaced by tibloc and various traxions and similar devices which provides improved comfort of use by unidirectionally moving seamlessly on the rope, while providing the same stopping functionality as Prusik.


== Tying ==
== Tying ==
Number of loops varies based on required amount of friction.
Number of loops varies based on desired amount of friction.


{{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery|160px
{{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery|160px
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|Do it few more times (2)
|Do it few more times (2)
|File:prusik_step3.png
|File:prusik_step3.png
|Dress the prusik by pulling the rest of the accessory cord (3)
|Dress the Prusik by pulling the rest of the accessory cord (3)
|File:prusik_step4.png
|File:prusik_step4.png
|Test if it blocks (4)
|Test if it blocks (4)
|File:prusik_step5.png
|File:prusik_step5.png
|Perform visual inspection (5)
|Inspect the hitch (5)
}}
}}


== Diameter recommendations ==
== Diameter recommendations ==
''this section is not yet inspected thoroughly, statements might be incorrect and/or misleading!''
Based on the cord load limits, 5 mm (5.1 kN) and 6 mm (10 kN) reep cords are generally recommended for tying Prusiks.<ref>{{cite web | url=https://www.mytendon.com/en/products/accessories/accessory-cords/c-23/ | title=Acessory cords | publisher=LANEX a.s. | author=LANEX a.s. | website=tendon.cz | access-date=16 August 2025}}</ref> General rule of a thumb is that to ensure a reliable blocking, Prusik cord diameter should be roughly 1/2 of a diameter of the rope on which the Prusik is tied. For a standard climbing rope (~9.7 mm), the slightly-above-recommendation 6 mm cord has the advantage that it is easier to loosen. Another advantage is that its loading limit is twice the one of the 5 mm cord. However, in some rope-Prusik combinations, Prusik from 6 mm cord might not block readily enough. But in some cases, 5 mm Prusik is nearly impossible to loosen under and after load. Testing in safe environment is therefore highly recommended both for the 5 mm and the 6 mm cord.
 
Based on the cord load limits, 5 mm (5.1 kN) and 6 mm (10 kN) reep cords are generally recommended for tying prusiks.<ref>{{cite web | url=https://www.mytendon.com/en/products/accessories/accessory-cords/c-23/ | title=Acessory cords | publisher=LANEX a.s. | author=LANEX a.s. | website=tendon.cz | access-date=16 August 2025}}</ref> General rule of a thumb is that to ensure reliable blocking, prusik cord should have roughly 1/2 of a diameter of the rope on which the prusik is tied on. For a standard climbing rope (~9.7 mm), the slightly-above-recommendation 6 mm cord has the advantage that it is easier to loosen and the loading limit of the cord is substantially higher than in case of the 5 mm cord. However, in some rope-prusik combinations, it might not block readily enough. In some cases, 5 mm prusik is hard to loosen under and after load. Both for 5 mm and 6 mm cord, testing in safe environment is highly recommended.


== References ==
== References ==