Prusik knot: Difference between revisions

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'''Prusik knot''' (technically a hitch) is a very versatile hitch used in abseiling, pulley systems, Prusiking up the ropes. In some of the applications it can be replaced by tibloc and various traxions and similar devices which provides improved comfort of use by unidirectionally moving seamlessly on the rope while providing the same stopping functionality as Prusik.

'''Prusik knot''' (technically a hitch) is a very versatile hitch used among other applications in abseiling, pulley systems, and Prusiking up the ropes. In some of the applications it can be replaced by tibloc and various traxions and similar devices which provides improved comfort of use by unidirectionally moving seamlessly on the rope, while providing the same stopping functionality as Prusik.

== Tying ==

Number of loops varies based on ~~required~~ amount of friction.

Number of loops varies based on desired amount of friction.

{{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery|160px

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|Test if it blocks (4)

|File:prusik_step5.png

|~~Perform visual inspection~~ (5)

|Inspect the hitch (5)

}}

== Diameter recommendations ==

~~''this section is not yet inspected thoroughly, statements might be incorrect and/or misleading!''~~

Based on the cord load limits, 5 mm (5.1 kN) and 6 mm (10 kN) reep cords are generally recommended for tying Prusiks.<ref>{{cite web | url=https://www.mytendon.com/en/products/accessories/accessory-cords/c-23/ | title=Acessory cords | publisher=LANEX a.s. | author=LANEX a.s. | website=tendon.cz | access-date=16 August 2025}}</ref> General rule of a thumb is that to ensure a reliable blocking, Prusik cord diameter should be roughly 1/2 of a diameter of the rope on which the Prusik is tied. For a standard climbing rope (~9.7 mm), the slightly-above-recommendation 6 mm cord has the advantage that it is easier to loosen. Another advantage is that its loading limit is twice the one of the 5 mm cord. However, in some rope-Prusik combinations, Prusik from 6 mm cord might not block readily enough. But in some cases, 5 mm Prusik is nearly impossible to loosen under and after load. Testing in safe environment is therefore highly recommended both for the 5 mm and the 6 mm cord.

Based on the cord load limits, 5 mm (5.1 kN) and 6 mm (10 kN) reep cords are generally recommended for tying Prusiks.<ref>{{cite web | url=https://www.mytendon.com/en/products/accessories/accessory-cords/c-23/ | title=Acessory cords | publisher=LANEX a.s. | author=LANEX a.s. | website=tendon.cz | access-date=16 August 2025}}</ref> General rule of a thumb is that to ensure reliable blocking, Prusik cord should ~~have~~ roughly 1/2 of a diameter of the rope on which the Prusik is tied on. For a standard climbing rope (~9.7 mm), the slightly-above-recommendation 6 mm cord has the advantage that it is easier to loosen ~~and the~~ loading limit of the ~~cord is substantially higher than in case~~ of the 5 mm cord. However, in some rope-Prusik combinations, it might not block readily enough. In some cases, 5 mm Prusik is ~~hard~~ to loosen under and after load. ~~Both~~ for 5 mm and 6 mm cord~~, testing in safe environment is highly recommended~~.

== References ==

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-'''Prusik knot''' (technically a hitch) is a very versatile hitch used in abseiling, pulley systems, Prusiking up the ropes. In some of the applications it can be replaced by tibloc and various traxions and similar devices which provides improved comfort of use by unidirectionally moving seamlessly on the rope while providing the same stopping functionality as Prusik.
+{{messagebox_checkstate}}
+'''Prusik knot''' (technically a hitch) is a very versatile hitch used among other applications in abseiling, pulley systems, and Prusiking up the ropes. In some of the applications it can be replaced by tibloc and various traxions and similar devices which provides improved comfort of use by unidirectionally moving seamlessly on the rope, while providing the same stopping functionality as Prusik.
 == Tying ==
-Number of loops varies based on required amount of friction.
+Number of loops varies based on desired amount of friction.
 {{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery|160px
@@ Line 26: / Line 28: @@
 |Test if it blocks (4)
 |File:prusik_step5.png
-|Perform visual inspection (5)
+|Inspect the hitch (5)
 }}
 == Diameter recommendations ==
-''this section is not yet inspected thoroughly, statements might be incorrect and/or misleading!''
+Based on the cord load limits, 5 mm (5.1 kN) and 6 mm (10 kN) reep cords are generally recommended for tying Prusiks.<ref>{{cite web | url=https://www.mytendon.com/en/products/accessories/accessory-cords/c-23/ | title=Acessory cords | publisher=LANEX a.s. | author=LANEX a.s. | website=tendon.cz | access-date=16 August 2025}}</ref> General rule of a thumb is that to ensure a reliable blocking, Prusik cord diameter should be roughly 1/2 of a diameter of the rope on which the Prusik is tied. For a standard climbing rope (~9.7 mm), the slightly-above-recommendation 6 mm cord has the advantage that it is easier to loosen. Another advantage is that its loading limit is twice the one of the 5 mm cord. However, in some rope-Prusik combinations, Prusik from 6 mm cord might not block readily enough. But in some cases, 5 mm Prusik is nearly impossible to loosen under and after load. Testing in safe environment is therefore highly recommended both for the 5 mm and the 6 mm cord.
-Based on the cord load limits, 5 mm (5.1 kN) and 6 mm (10 kN) reep cords are generally recommended for tying Prusiks.<ref>{{cite web | url=https://www.mytendon.com/en/products/accessories/accessory-cords/c-23/ | title=Acessory cords | publisher=LANEX a.s. | author=LANEX a.s. | website=tendon.cz | access-date=16 August 2025}}</ref> General rule of a thumb is that to ensure reliable blocking, Prusik cord should have roughly 1/2 of a diameter of the rope on which the Prusik is tied on. For a standard climbing rope (~9.7 mm), the slightly-above-recommendation 6 mm cord has the advantage that it is easier to loosen and the loading limit of the cord is substantially higher than in case of the 5 mm cord. However, in some rope-Prusik combinations, it might not block readily enough. In some cases, 5 mm Prusik is hard to loosen under and after load. Both for 5 mm and 6 mm cord, testing in safe environment is highly recommended.
 == References ==