Prusik knot: Difference between revisions
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| strength = ~5-8 kN when a 5-7mm accessory cord is used<ref name=hownot2>{{Cite AV media | first1=Ryan | last1=Jenks | date=16 June 2021 | title=Prusik, Auto Blocks, and Klemheist Break Tests | url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0fdOn2futNc | publisher=HowNOT2 | access-date=16 August 2025}}</ref> | | strength = ~5-8 kN when a 5-7mm accessory cord is used<ref name=hownot2>{{Cite AV media | first1=Ryan | last1=Jenks | date=16 June 2021 | title=Prusik, Auto Blocks, and Klemheist Break Tests | url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0fdOn2futNc | publisher=HowNOT2 | access-date=16 August 2025}}</ref> | ||
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'''Prusik knot''' (technically a hitch) is a very versatile hitch used among other applications in abseiling, pulley systems, and Prusiking up the ropes. In some of the applications it can be replaced by tibloc and various traxions and similar devices which provides improved comfort of use by unidirectionally moving seamlessly on the rope, while providing the same stopping functionality as Prusik. | '''Prusik knot''' (technically a hitch) is a very versatile hitch used among other applications in abseiling, pulley systems, and Prusiking up the ropes. In some of the applications it can be replaced by tibloc and various traxions and similar devices which provides improved comfort of use by unidirectionally moving seamlessly on the rope, while providing the same stopping functionality as Prusik. | ||
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== Diameter recommendations == | == Diameter recommendations == | ||
Based on the cord load limits, 5 mm (5.1 kN) and 6 mm (10 kN) reep cords are generally recommended for tying Prusiks.<ref>{{cite web | url=https://www.mytendon.com/en/products/accessories/accessory-cords/c-23/ | title=Acessory cords | publisher=LANEX a.s. | author=LANEX a.s. | website=tendon.cz | access-date=16 August 2025}}</ref> General rule of a thumb is that to ensure a reliable blocking, Prusik cord diameter should be roughly 1/2 of a diameter of the rope on which the Prusik is tied. For a standard climbing rope (~9.7 mm), the slightly-above-recommendation 6 mm cord has the advantage that it is easier to loosen | Based on the cord load limits, 5 mm (5.1 kN) and 6 mm (10 kN) reep cords are generally recommended for tying Prusiks.<ref>{{cite web | url=https://www.mytendon.com/en/products/accessories/accessory-cords/c-23/ | title=Acessory cords | publisher=LANEX a.s. | author=LANEX a.s. | website=tendon.cz | access-date=16 August 2025}}</ref> General rule of a thumb is that to ensure a reliable blocking, Prusik cord diameter should be roughly 1/2 of a diameter of the rope on which the Prusik is tied. For a standard climbing rope (~9.7 mm), the slightly-above-recommendation 6 mm cord has the advantage that it is easier to loosen. Another advantage is that its loading limit is twice the one of the 5 mm cord. However, in some rope-Prusik combinations, Prusik from 6 mm cord might not block readily enough. But in some cases, 5 mm Prusik is nearly impossible to loosen under and after load. Testing in safe environment is therefore highly recommended both for the 5 mm and the 6 mm cord. | ||
== References == | == References == | ||