Prusik knot: Difference between revisions

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{{Infobox knot

| image = File: Prusik.jpg

| other_names = Prusik, ~~prusik~~ hitch

| other_names = Prusik, Prusik hitch

| pros = Fast, clean, just an accessory cord or a sling needed

| cons = Compared to traxion, tiblocs and such it is a bit tedious to get loosen in some cases and it must be moved actively

Line 11:

}}

Prusik knot (technically a hitch) is a very versatile hitch used in abseiling, pulley systems, ~~prusiking~~ up the ropes. In some of the applications it can be replaced by tibloc and various traxions and similar devices which provides improved comfort of use by unidirectionally moving seamlessly on the rope while providing the same stopping functionality as ~~prusik~~.

'''Prusik knot''' (technically a hitch) is a very versatile hitch used among other applications in abseiling, pulley systems, and Prusiking up the ropes. In some of the applications it can be replaced by tibloc and various traxions and similar devices which provides improved comfort of use by unidirectionally moving seamlessly on the rope, while providing the same stopping functionality as Prusik.

== Tying ==

~~[[File:prusik_step1~~.~~png|160px]]~~

Number of loops varies based on desired amount of friction.

~~[[File:prusik_step2.png|160px]]~~

~~[[File:prusik_step3.png|160px]]~~

~~[[File:prusik_step4.png|160px]]~~

~~[[File:prusik_step5.png|160px]]~~

~~'''Steps description'''~~: Wrap an accessory cord around a rope ~~as illustrated~~ (1)~~, do~~ it ~~two~~ more times (2)~~, pull~~ the rest of the accessory cord ~~loop to dress the prusik~~ (3) ~~and try~~ if it blocks ~~properly~~ (4) ~~and visually inspect if everything looks as it should~~ (5).

{{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery|160px

|File:prusik_step1.png

|Wrap an accessory cord around the rope (1)

|File:prusik_step2.png

|Do it few more times (2)

|File:prusik_step3.png

|Dress the Prusik by pulling the rest of the accessory cord (3)

|File:prusik_step4.png

|Test if it blocks (4)

|File:prusik_step5.png

|Inspect the hitch (5)

}}

== Diameter recommendations ==

~~''this section is not yet inspected thoroughly, statements might be incorrect and/or misleading!''~~

Based on the cord load limits, 5 mm (5.1 kN) and 6 mm (10 kN) reep cords are generally recommended for tying Prusiks.<ref>{{cite web | url=https://www.mytendon.com/en/products/accessories/accessory-cords/c-23/ | title=Acessory cords | publisher=LANEX a.s. | author=LANEX a.s. | website=tendon.cz | access-date=16 August 2025}}</ref> General rule of a thumb is that to ensure a reliable blocking, Prusik cord diameter should be roughly 1/2 of a diameter of the rope on which the Prusik is tied. For a standard climbing rope (~9.7 mm), the slightly-above-recommendation 6 mm cord has the advantage that it is easier to loosen. Another advantage is that its loading limit is twice the one of the 5 mm cord. However, in some rope-Prusik combinations, Prusik from 6 mm cord might not block readily enough. But in some cases, 5 mm Prusik is nearly impossible to loosen under and after load. Testing in safe environment is therefore highly recommended both for the 5 mm and the 6 mm cord.

Based on the cord load limits 5 mm (5.1 kN) or 6 mm (10 kN) reep ~~cord is~~ generally recommended for tying ~~prusiks~~.<ref>{{cite web | url=https://www.mytendon.com/en/products/accessories/accessory-cords/c-23/ | title=Acessory cords | publisher=LANEX a.s. | author=LANEX a.s. | website=tendon.cz | access-date=16 August 2025}}</ref> General rule of a thumb is that ~~for prusik~~ to ~~block readily~~, ~~it is recommended if it is~~ 1/2 diameter of the rope on which ~~its supposed to be~~ tied. For a standard climbing rope (~9.7 mm), ~~I personally recommend to use~~ 6 mm ~~prusik as~~ it is ~~much~~ easier to loosen ~~and~~ the ~~loading capacity~~ of the cord is ~~substantially better~~.

== References ==

@@ Line 3: / Line 3: @@
 {{Infobox knot
 | image = File: Prusik.jpg
-| other_names = Prusik, prusik hitch
+| other_names = Prusik, Prusik hitch
 | pros = Fast, clean, just an accessory cord or a sling needed
 | cons = Compared to traxion, tiblocs and such it is a bit tedious to get loosen in some cases and it must be moved actively
@@ Line 11: / Line 11: @@
 }}
-Prusik knot (technically a hitch) is a very versatile hitch used in abseiling, pulley systems, prusiking up the ropes. In some of the applications it can be replaced by tibloc and various traxions and similar devices which provides improved comfort of use by unidirectionally moving seamlessly on the rope while providing the same stopping functionality as prusik.
+{{messagebox_checkstate}}
+'''Prusik knot''' (technically a hitch) is a very versatile hitch used among other applications in abseiling, pulley systems, and Prusiking up the ropes. In some of the applications it can be replaced by tibloc and various traxions and similar devices which provides improved comfort of use by unidirectionally moving seamlessly on the rope, while providing the same stopping functionality as Prusik.
 == Tying ==
-[[File:prusik_step1.png|160px]]
+Number of loops varies based on desired amount of friction.
-[[File:prusik_step2.png|160px]]
-[[File:prusik_step3.png|160px]]
-[[File:prusik_step4.png|160px]]
-[[File:prusik_step5.png|160px]]
-'''Steps description''': Wrap an accessory cord around a rope as illustrated (1), do it two more times (2), pull the rest of the accessory cord loop to dress the prusik (3) and try if it blocks properly (4) and visually inspect if everything looks as it should (5).
+{{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery|160px
+|File:prusik_step1.png
+|Wrap an accessory cord around the rope (1)
+|File:prusik_step2.png
+|Do it few more times (2)
+|File:prusik_step3.png
+|Dress the Prusik by pulling the rest of the accessory cord (3)
+|File:prusik_step4.png
+|Test if it blocks (4)
+|File:prusik_step5.png
+|Inspect the hitch (5)
+}}
 == Diameter recommendations ==
-''this section is not yet inspected thoroughly, statements might be incorrect and/or misleading!''
+Based on the cord load limits, 5 mm (5.1 kN) and 6 mm (10 kN) reep cords are generally recommended for tying Prusiks.<ref>{{cite web | url=https://www.mytendon.com/en/products/accessories/accessory-cords/c-23/ | title=Acessory cords | publisher=LANEX a.s. | author=LANEX a.s. | website=tendon.cz | access-date=16 August 2025}}</ref> General rule of a thumb is that to ensure a reliable blocking, Prusik cord diameter should be roughly 1/2 of a diameter of the rope on which the Prusik is tied. For a standard climbing rope (~9.7 mm), the slightly-above-recommendation 6 mm cord has the advantage that it is easier to loosen. Another advantage is that its loading limit is twice the one of the 5 mm cord. However, in some rope-Prusik combinations, Prusik from 6 mm cord might not block readily enough. But in some cases, 5 mm Prusik is nearly impossible to loosen under and after load. Testing in safe environment is therefore highly recommended both for the 5 mm and the 6 mm cord.
-Based on the cord load limits 5 mm (5.1 kN) or 6 mm (10 kN) reep cord is generally recommended for tying prusiks.<ref>{{cite web | url=https://www.mytendon.com/en/products/accessories/accessory-cords/c-23/ | title=Acessory cords | publisher=LANEX a.s. | author=LANEX a.s. | website=tendon.cz | access-date=16 August 2025}}</ref> General rule of a thumb is that for prusik to block readily, it is recommended if it is 1/2 diameter of the rope on which its supposed to be tied. For a standard climbing rope (~9.7 mm), I personally recommend to use 6 mm prusik as it is much easier to loosen and the loading capacity of the cord is substantially better.
 == References ==