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| Quickdraw is an essential piece of a climbing equipment used for connecting the rope with a running protections. It consists of two [[Carabiner|carabiners]] connected with a sling. | | {{messagebox_checkstate}} |
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| | Quickdraw is an essential piece of a climbing equipment used for connecting the rope to running protections. It consists of two [[Carabiner|carabiners]] connected with a sling. |
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| == Clipping == | | == Clipping == |
| | | See [[Clipping]]. |
| === Clipping with fingers ===
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| {{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery_with_widths
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| |File:Clipping fingers step1.png
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| |150px
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| |Grab the rope between the thumb and the index finger.
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| |File:Clipping fingers step2.png
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| |120px
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| |Use the middle finger to hold the carabiner in place.
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| |File:Clipping fingers step3.png
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| |120px
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| |Push the rope against the carabiner gate while still keeping the carabiner in-place by your middle finger.
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| |File:Clipping fingers step4.png
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| |120px
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| |The rope slips into the carabiner.
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| |File:Clipping fingers step5.png
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| |120px
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| |And gets clipped.
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| }}
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| This clipping method works only with the ''right hand - carabiner gate faces left'', or with the ''left hand - gate faces right''. In other cases, use a different method.
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| == Risks ==
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| Aside from [[Carabiner#Safe-use_recommendations|safety recommendations for carabiners]], there are few more rules to follow while working with quickdraws.
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| {{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery_with_widths
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| |File:QD_corect.png
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| |120px
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| |Position the carabiner in a way that the gate is pointed away from the direction of climb.
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| |File:QD_warn_gate.png
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| |120px
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| |Improper positioning of the gate can lead to unclipping of the carabiner during a fall.
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| |File:QD_warn_backclip_wronggate.png
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| |120px
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| |Backclipping of the carabiner is also risky as it might also lead to the uncliping of the carabiner.
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| |File:qd_double.png
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| |140px
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| |If direction of the climb is uncertain, securing can be done by placing two carabiners with gates pointed in the opposite directions.
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| |File:qd_screw.png
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| |140px
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| |alternatively, carabiner with a screw-gate can be used for the same purpose.
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| }}
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| === Self-unclipping of the rope during a fall ===
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| If the carabiner is positioned and/or clipped wrong, the lead climber risks that the rope unclips itself from the carabiner during a fall. The risk increases if the carabiner is back-clipped.
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| {{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery
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| |140px
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| |File:qd_gatefall_step1.png
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| |Falling into an incorrectly placed quickdraw poses a risk.
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| |File:qd_gatefall_step2.png
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| |During a fall, the rope might push against the gate of the carabiner.
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| |File:qd_gatefall_step3.png
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| |Then slip through the gate of the carabiner.
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| |File:qd_gatefall_step4.png
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| |And release itself.
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| }}
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| == Alpine quickdraw (alpine draw) == | | == Alpine quickdraw (alpine draw) == |