Garda hitch: Difference between revisions
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{{Infobox knot | {{Infobox knot | ||
| image = File: Garda.jpg | | image = File: Garda.jpg | ||
| pros = Fast, simple, just two carabiners needed | | image alt = garda hitch detail | ||
| cons = | | pros = Fast, simple, just two carabiners needed, works well on a tested setup | ||
| cons = Works only one-way, almost impossible to release when loaded, high friction under load,<ref name=friction_alpinesavvy>{{cite web | url=https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/progress-capture-efficiencies-of-various-devices | title=Progress capture - efficiencies of various devices | publisher=Alpinesavvy LLC | first1=John | last1=Godino | website=AlpineSavvy.com | access-date=27 September 2025 | url-status=live | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20211119020952/https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/progress-capture-efficiencies-of-various-devices | archive-date=19 November 2021}}</ref> can slip in specific cases, the system misbehaves with some carabiners<ref name=vdiff>{{cite web | url=https://www.vdiffclimbing.com/garda-hitch/ | title=The Garda Hitch (Alpine Clutch) | publisher=VDiff Climbing | first1=Matt | last1=Maddaloni |first2=Neil | last2=Chelton | website=VDiffClimbing.com | access-date=27 September 2025 | url-status=live | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20250512113500/https://www.vdiffclimbing.com/garda-hitch/ | archive-date=12 May 2025}}</ref><ref name=alpinesavvy>{{cite web | url=https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/pros-and-cons-of-the-garda-hitch | title=Pros and cons of the Garda Hitch | publisher=Alpinesavvy LLC | first1=John | last1=Godino | website=AlpineSavvy.com | access-date=27 September 2025 | url-status=live | archive-url=http://web.archive.org/web/20250927043118/https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/pros-and-cons-of-the-garda-hitch | archive-date=27 September 2025}}</ref> | |||
| uses = (self-)rescue techniques, material hauling | | uses = (self-)rescue techniques, material hauling | ||
| category = Hitch | | category = Hitch | ||
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}} | }} | ||
Garda hitch is one of the elementary hitches for | {{messagebox_checkstate}} | ||
'''Garda hitch''' is one of the elementary hitches. It is used for example in self-rescue from a crevasse. Although it is simple to tie and works reliably with optimized setups, its application scope is limited by its unidirectional nature and high friction under load.<ref name=friction_alpinesavvy/> In very specific cases, it has safety issues ([[#slippage|slippage]]). For the Garda hitch reliability, carabiner choice and testing prior to use is crucial. In many applications, Garda hitch can be replaced by a [[Tuber_(Tubular_belay_device)#Tuber_as_an_ascender | tuber with guide mode]]. | |||
== Tying == | == Tying == | ||
'''The two carabiners used for tying should be identical for the knot to work properly!''' D-shaped screw-gate carabiners are recommended. Tying a girth hitch on the top sling in order to fix the carabiners position is recommended (not drawn). It is highly recommended to test the suitability of the carabiners and rope intended for Garda in-advance in a safe environment.<ref name=vdiff/> | |||
{{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery_with_alt|120px | |||
|File: garda_step1.png | |||
|Hang a rope onto two carabiners (1) | |||
|two opened screw-gate carabiners hanging on a sling with a rope being placed into them | |||
|File: garda_step2.png | |||
|Wrap the rear strand around the front carabiner (2) | |||
|two carabiners with a rope, front carabiner gate opened and arrow pointing to wrap the rope around it | |||
|File: garda_step3.png | |||
|Take the left strand of the rope and move it above the loop (3), Garda should seat itself into the corners of the D-carabiners | |||
|two carabiners on a sling with a rope wrapped in them, arrow pointing to dress the rope in a way to create garda | |||
|File: garda_step4.png | |||
|Secure the gates (4) | |||
|garda hitch on two screw-gate carabiners which hangs on a sling, arrows pointing to close the gate | |||
|File: garda_step5.png | |||
|Inspect the gates and the Garda hitch (5) | |||
|garda hitch on two locked screw gate carabiners hanging on a sling, eye icon | |||
}} | |||
== Carabiner choice == | |||
D-Shaped carabiners are recommended over other shapes.<ref name=vdiff/><ref name=hownot2 /> Screw-gate carabiners are safe to use as long as the locks are not too bulky. Otherwise the carabiners might not snap properly. Movement of the rope in the system might unclip carabiners without gate locks.<ref name=alpinesavvy/> | |||
== Slippage == | == Slippage == | ||
Garda hitch is, in some cases, prone to slipping, as illustrated and studied by Ryan Jenks (HowNOT2).<ref name=hownot2 /> In general, the smaller the rope diameter and the bigger/rounder the carabiners, the higher the chance that the hitch slips. The lowest recorded force when slippage occured was just 2.4 kN, when he used oval screw-gate carabiners together with a 6 mm nylon sling. In the case of a 9 mm nylon rope (diameter similar to most climbing ropes), limit force was generally around 8-10 kN (desheating), except when he used oval screw-gate carabiners (6 kN, slipping). As 8-10 kN is roughly twice the maximum force a climber experiences during a lead fall, slippage should not be an issue, as long as you use D-shaped carabiners together with a climbing rope. | |||
Garda hitch is | |||
== References == | == References == | ||