Lowering a lead climber from an anchor: Difference between revisions
Created separate page from the lowering - excluded quick method for clarity and linearity |
Unifited the guideline - made one detailed guideline which is separated into sections |
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=== Lowering from a pre-built sport anchor === | === Lowering from a pre-built sport anchor === | ||
Steps: | Steps: | ||
* Freeing the rope end without loosing the rope (temporary tie-in) | * [[#Freeing the rope end|Freeing the rope end]] without loosing the rope (temporary tie-in) | ||
* Threading the rope through the anchor and retying to its end | * [[#Threading the rope through the anchor|Threading the rope through the anchor]] and retying to its end | ||
* Removing the temporary tie-in, safety checks, cleaning up | * [[#Cleaning up | Removing the temporary tie-in, safety checks, cleaning up]] | ||
==== Freeing the rope end without loosing the rope | ==== Freeing the rope end ==== | ||
{{#invoke:FlexGallery| | Freeing the rope end without loosing the rope by making a temporary tie-in. | ||
|File: | |||
{{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery_with_widths_alt | |||
|File:prebuilt_lowering_step1.png | |||
|200px | |200px | ||
|Pull approximately two meters of slack (1) | |Pull approximately two arm lengths (two meters) of slack (1) | ||
|File: | |Person hanging by a sling and rope on a sport anchor in a toprope setup, hand pulling slack through the toprope | ||
|File:prebuilt_lowering_step2.png | |||
|200px | |200px | ||
|Completely untie the Figure | |Tie a [[Figure_eight#On_a_bight_(tie_in_in_a_middle)|Figure 8 on a bight]] (2) | ||
|Tying a figure eight on the slack at the anchor point | |||
|File:prebuilt_lowering_step3.png | |||
|200px | |||
|Clip it to your harness by a safebiner (3) | |||
|Clipping the figure eight on a slack to the harness by a triple action carabiners | |||
|File:prebuilt_lowering_step4.png | |||
|200px | |||
|Inspect that the carabiner is in your belay loop and that the Figure 8 is tied properly and clipped in the carabiner (4) | |||
|Eye inspecting proper binding into the rope by a safebiner with Figure 8 | |||
|File:prebuilt_lowering_step5.png | |||
|200px | |||
|Completely untie the Figure 8 on the end of the rope (5) | |||
|Arrow pointing to untie the original tie-in point at the end of the rope | |||
|File:prebuilt_lowering_step6.png | |||
|200px | |||
|You have freed the rope end while still being safely tied in | |||
|Person on the anchor tied in with a Figure 8 on a carabiner having a free slack at the end of the rope | |||
}} | }} | ||
==== Threading the rope through the anchor and retying to its end | ==== Threading the rope through the anchor ==== | ||
{{#invoke:FlexGallery| | Threading the rope through the anchor rappel ring and retying to its end. | ||
|File: | |||
{{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery_with_widths_alt | |||
|File:prebuilt_lowering_step7.png | |||
|200px | |||
|Pull the loose end of the rope through the rappel ring (6) | |||
|Arrow suggesting a person on the anchor to pull the slack through the anchor rappel ring | |||
|File:prebuilt_lowering_step8.png | |||
|200px | |||
|And tie in it by a [[Figure_eight#Follow-through_(tie-in_on_the_rope_end)|Figure 8]] (7) | |||
|Arrow suggesting to tie in onto the rope end by figure eight | |||
|File:prebuilt_lowering_step9.png | |||
|200px | |200px | ||
| | |You will get lowered on this knot, so inspect that its properly tied and that the loop goes through both of the harness tie-in loops (8) | ||
|Eye inspection of the figure 8 knot made in the previous step | |||
}} | }} | ||
==== Removing the temporary tie-in, safety checks, cleaning up | ==== Cleaning up ==== | ||
{{#invoke:FlexGallery| | Removing the temporary tie-in, safety checks, cleaning up. | ||
|File: | |||
{{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery_with_widths_alt | |||
|File:prebuilt_lowering_step10.png | |||
|200px | |200px | ||
| | |Detach the safebiner (9,10) and untie the Figure 8 on a bight (11), excessive slack will slide out itself (12) | ||
|File: | |Dismantling of the tie-in through the triple carabiner | ||
|File:prebuilt_lowering_step11.png | |||
|200px | |||
|Remove the two carabiners intended for the toproping (13) | |||
|Removing of toprope carabiners from an anchor point | |||
|File:prebuilt_lowering_step12.png | |||
|200px | |||
|Before removing your personal anchor, ask your belayer for a block (14) in order to test the setup | |||
|Person on the anchor being pulled towards the anchor by a belayer taking out slack | |||
|File:prebuilt_lowering_step13.png | |||
|160px | |160px | ||
| | |Inspect both the tie-in (15) and the threading of the rope through the anchor rappel ring (16) | ||
|File: | |Eye inspection of the threading of the rope and tie in | ||
|File:prebuilt_lowering_step14.png | |||
|160px | |160px | ||
| | |Unscrew (17) and clean-up (18) the rest of your gear from the anchor | ||
|File: | |Climber on an anchor hanging on a rope tied through the rappel ring removing rest of his gear from the anchor | ||
|File:prebuilt_lowering_step15.png | |||
|160px | |160px | ||
|And | |And get lowered by a belayer (19) | ||
|Person descending from an anchor | |||
}} | }} | ||
=== Lowering from a pre-built sport anchor - quick method === | === Lowering from a pre-built sport anchor - quick method === | ||
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|File: lowering_bolts_step2.png | |File: lowering_bolts_step2.png | ||
|Once the bolts are threaded, you continue as in the [[#Lowering from a pre-built sport anchor|method with the rappel ring]] by [[Figure_eight#Follow-through_(tie-in_on_the_rope_end)|tying in by a Figure 8]], the rest of the steps is analogous | |Once the bolts are threaded, you continue as in the [[#Lowering from a pre-built sport anchor|method with the rappel ring]] by [[Figure_eight#Follow-through_(tie-in_on_the_rope_end)|tying in by a Figure 8]], the rest of the steps is analogous | ||
}} | }} | ||
=== References === | === References === | ||