|
|
| (6 intermediate revisions by the same user not shown) |
| Line 6: |
Line 6: |
| }} | | }} |
|
| |
|
| Quickdraw is an essential piece of a climbing equipment used for connecting the rope with a running protections. It consists of two [[Carabiner|carabiners]] connected with a sling. | | {{messagebox_checkstate}} |
| | |
| | Quickdraw is an essential piece of a climbing equipment used for connecting the rope to running protections. It consists of two [[Carabiner|carabiners]] connected with a sling. |
|
| |
|
| == Clipping == | | == Clipping == |
| | | See [[Clipping]]. |
| === Clipping with fingers ===
| |
| {{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery_with_widths
| |
| |File:Clipping fingers step1.png
| |
| |150px
| |
| |Grab the rope between the thumb and the index finger.
| |
| |File:Clipping fingers step2.png
| |
| |120px
| |
| |Use the middle finger to hold the carabiner in place.
| |
| |File:Clipping fingers step3.png
| |
| |120px
| |
| |Push the rope against the carabiner gate while still keeping the carabiner in place by your middle finger.
| |
| |File:Clipping fingers step4.png
| |
| |120px
| |
| |The rope slips into the carabiner.
| |
| |File:Clipping fingers step5.png
| |
| |120px
| |
| |And gets clipped.
| |
| }}
| |
| | |
| This clipping method works only with the ''right hand - carabiner gate faces left'', or with the ''left hand - gate faces right''. In other cases, use a different method.
| |
| | |
| == Risks ==
| |
| Aside from [[Carabiner#Safe-use_recommendations|safety recommendations for carabiners]], there are few more rules to follow while working with quickdraws.
| |
| | |
| {{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery_with_widths
| |
| |File:QD_corect.png
| |
| |120px
| |
| |Position the carabiner in a way that the gate is pointed away from the direction of climb.
| |
| |File:QD_warn_gate.png
| |
| |120px
| |
| |Improper positioning of the gate can lead to unclipping of the carabiner during a fall.
| |
| |File:QD_warn_backclip_wronggate.png
| |
| |120px
| |
| |Backclipping of the carabiner is also risky as it might also lead to the uncliping of the carabiner.
| |
| |File:qd_double.png
| |
| |140px
| |
| |If direction of the climb is uncertain, securing can be done by placing two carabiners with gates pointed in the opposite directions.
| |
| |File:qd_screw.png
| |
| |140px
| |
| |alternatively, carabiner with a screw-gate can be used for the same purpose.
| |
| }}
| |
| | |
| === Self-unclipping of the rope during a fall ===
| |
| If the carabiner is positioned and/or clipped wrong, the lead climber risks that the rope unclips itself from the carabiner during a fall. The risk increases if the carabiner is back-clipped.
| |
| | |
| {{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery
| |
| |140px
| |
| |File:qd_gatefall_step1.png
| |
| |Falling into an incorrectly placed quickdraw poses a risk.
| |
| |File:qd_gatefall_step2.png
| |
| |During a fall, the rope might push against the gate of the carabiner.
| |
| |File:qd_gatefall_step3.png
| |
| |Then slip through the gate of the carabiner.
| |
| |File:qd_gatefall_step4.png
| |
| |And release itself.
| |
| }}
| |
|
| |
|
| == Alpine quickdraw (alpine draw) == | | == Alpine quickdraw (alpine draw) == |
| Quickdraw |
|---|
 |
| Use(s) | Lead climbing, mountaineering |
|---|
Quickdraw is an essential piece of a climbing equipment used for connecting the rope to running protections. It consists of two carabiners connected with a sling.
Clipping
See Clipping.
Alpine quickdraw (alpine draw)
TODO
Packing and unpacking the alpine quickdraw
TODO
Clipstick
TODO