Carabiner: Difference between revisions
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Carabiners are nowadays as essential for the mountaineering and climbing as a rope. Types of carabiners used in climbing and their applications are discussed in-detail below. | {{messagebox_checkstate}} | ||
'''Carabiners''' are nowadays as essential for the mountaineering and climbing as a rope. Types of carabiners used in climbing and their applications are discussed in-detail below. | |||
== Safe-use recommendations == | == Safe-use recommendations == | ||
Certified climbing carabiners are generally very safe if used properly. However, in some cases their strength and reliability gets compromised by improper handling. In addition, for specific applications, climbing associations recommends using carabiners with increased gate-opening protection. | |||
Prevent carabiners from cross-loading | Prevent carabiners from cross-loading. They are often still able to withstand up to ~7 kN of force, but that is only a fraction of their nominal strength. With wired-gate carabiners, cross-loading might in-addition induce a rope strain if the rope is loaded over the gate. Prevent placing the carabiner in a way that its gate faces towards the rock and/or the rock features, it might result in opening the gate. You can prevent this by orienting the carabiner so that the gate points in a free direction.<ref>{{cite web | url=https://www.ocun.com/data/files/sites/3vnkgz9j.pdf | title=Instructions for the use of connectors EN 566 and carabiners (EN 12275). (v250520) | publisher=Ocun (RP Climbing s.r.o.) | author1=Ocun | website=Ocun.com/service/instructions | date=May 28, 2025 | access-date=1 September 2025}}</ref> | ||
{{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery | {{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery | ||
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Do not place carabiners in a way that they would | Do not place carabiners in a way that they would get loaded over a rock edge. HowNOT2 recorded a measurement where he cracked a sideway-loaded carabiner below 4 kN.<ref name=hownot2>{{Cite AV media | first1=Ryan | last1=Jenks | date=7 June 2021 | title=Carabiners Loaded Sideways!?!? | url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=buNotkWWLHg | publisher=HowNOT2 | access-date=1 September 2025}}</ref> That is roughly half of the force a carabiner placed in the last protection piece experiences during a catch of a big lead fall. Therefore there is a very realistic chance the carabiner loaded over an edge might fail during a lead-climb fall. If you want to secure yourself to an inconviently placed bolt or a piton, extend it by a sling or a rope as illustrated below.<ref>{{cite web | url=https://horolezeckametodika.cz/karabiny-v-jisteni | title=Karabiny v Jištění (Carabiners in protection) | publisher=HOROLEZECKÁ METODIKA | first1=Tomáš | last1=Kublák | website=Horolezeckametodika.cz | access-date=1 September 2025}}</ref> | ||
{{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery | {{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery | ||
|120 | |120 | ||
|File:carabine_edge_1.png | |File:carabine_edge_1.png | ||
|Positioning carabiner over an edge atypically loads the carabiner | |Positioning the carabiner over an edge atypically loads the carabiner | ||
|File:carabine_edge_2.png | |File:carabine_edge_2.png | ||
|Carabiner might easily bend, or even collapse | |Carabiner might easily bend, or even collapse | ||
|File:carabine_edge_fix_1.png | |File:carabine_edge_fix_1.png | ||
| | |Prevent this by offseting the carabiner by a sling... | ||
|File:carabine_edge_fix_2.png | |File:carabine_edge_fix_2.png | ||
| | |... or by a rope | ||
}} | }} | ||
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=== Wire-gate carabiners === | === Wire-gate carabiners === | ||
[[File:Mini_wire.jpg|200px|thumb|Small asymmetric D-shaped wire-gate carabiner | [[File:Mini_wire.jpg|200px|thumb|Small asymmetric D-shaped wire-gate carabiner]] | ||
Wire gate might get pulled-out sideways | Wire gate carabiners are slightly lighter than their full-gate counterparts. They are less prone to freezing and if they freeze, they can be cleaned easily. They are also way less prone to a gate lash. However, wire gates might get pulled-out sideways. Loading of a wire gate with a rope during an accident can damage the rope (very small bend radius). Nose groove of the wire-gate carabiner can get caught in bolt hangers, in wires of the trad protection pieces (nuts, hexes etc), or smaller diameter slings and cords. Some of the issues were addressed by single-wire carabiners. For their freezing resistance, wire-gate carabiners are employed in ice climbing. They are also employed in quickdraws for sport- and trad-climbing - either on the rope side, or on both sides. | ||
=== Screw-gate carabiners === | === Screw-gate carabiners === | ||
[[File:screw-d-biner.jpg|200px|thumb|Asymmetric D-shaped screw-gate carabiner | [[File:screw-d-biner.jpg|200px|thumb|Asymmetric D-shaped screw-gate carabiner]] | ||
Screw-gate carabiners provide increased security. They are mainly employed in anchor setups, belaying and rescue techniques. As screwing and unscrewing the gate takes time, screw-gate carabiners are generally not used in quickdraws for clipping bolts along the route, except of a few special cases. | Screw-gate carabiners provide increased security. They are mainly employed in [[anchor]] setups, belaying, and in rescue techniques. As screwing and unscrewing the gate takes time, screw-gate carabiners are generally not used in quickdraws for [[clipping]] bolts along the route, except of a [[Clipping#Risks|few special cases]]. | ||
=== Safety carabiners === | === Safety carabiners === | ||
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=== D-shaped carabiners === | === D-shaped carabiners === | ||
D-shape carabiner (nowadays most often the asymmetric D-shape) is the most used carabiner shape. The D-shape provides high loading capacity and naturally positions the rope into a well defined spot | D-shape carabiner (nowadays most often the asymmetric D-shape) is the most used carabiner shape. The D-shape provides high loading capacity and naturally positions the rope on the carabiner into a well defined spot. They are used in anchor building, quickdraws and other places. | ||
=== HMS carabiners === | === HMS carabiners === | ||
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=== Oval carabiners === | === Oval carabiners === | ||
Handy in aid climbing or for carrying material. | Handy in aid climbing, or for carrying material. | ||
== References == | == References == | ||