Munter hitch: Difference between revisions
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{{Infobox knot | {{Infobox knot | ||
| image = File: Munter_on_white.jpg | | image = File: Munter_on_white.jpg | ||
| other_names = HMS, HMS knot, | | other_names = HMS, HMS knot, Munter | ||
| pros = Fast and simple, requires only an HMS carabiner, works at any angle, allows smooth lowering of a second climber | | pros = Fast and simple, requires only an HMS carabiner, works at any angle, allows smooth lowering of a second climber | ||
| cons = Causes rope abrasion, prone to rope tangling, no braking assistance | | cons = Causes rope abrasion, prone to rope tangling, no braking assistance | ||
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| category = Hitch | | category = Hitch | ||
}} | }} | ||
{{messagebox_checkstate}} | |||
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Munter hitch (also known as HMS) is | '''Munter hitch''' (also known as '''HMS''') is a knot used for belaying when a belay device is unavailable or impractical. For its simplicity, it is often employed in advanced rope techniques, including rescue techniques. | ||
== Tying == <!--T:10--> | == Tying == <!--T:10--> | ||
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=== Tying for an anchor belay (easy method) === | === Tying for an anchor belay (easy method) === | ||
This method is very robust and | This method is very robust and ideal for learning the Munter hitch. | ||
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|Make a loop (1) | |Make a loop (1) | ||
|File: Hms_ez_step2.png | |File: Hms_ez_step2.png | ||
|Pull | |Pull your thumb through the loop (2) | ||
|File: Hms_ez_step3.png | |File: Hms_ez_step3.png | ||
|Place another strand over your thumb and close the hand with your index finger (3) | |Place another strand over your thumb and close the hand with your index finger (3) | ||
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|Screw the safety-lock (5) | |Screw the safety-lock (5) | ||
|File: Hms_ez_step6.png | |File: Hms_ez_step6.png | ||
|Inspect that everything is correct (6) and as a final | |Inspect that everything is correct (6) and as a final test, pull the brake strand (7), the Munter hitch flips into another Munter | ||
}} | }} | ||
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|Take a bight of the rope (1) | |Take a bight of the rope (1) | ||
|File: Hms_harness_step2.png | |File: Hms_harness_step2.png | ||
| | |Make a loop (2) | ||
|File: Hms_harness_step3.png | |File: Hms_harness_step3.png | ||
|Open the carabiner gate (3) and seat the loop into the carabiner (4) | |Open the carabiner gate (3) and seat the loop into the carabiner (4) | ||
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|Screw the safety-lock (5) | |Screw the safety-lock (5) | ||
|File: Hms_harness_step5.png | |File: Hms_harness_step5.png | ||
|Inspect that everything is correct (6) and pull the break-strand (7) to test if the | |Inspect that everything is correct (6) and pull the break-strand (7) to test if the Munter hitch flips into another Munter | ||
}} | }} | ||
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== Belaying == | == Belaying == | ||
Always hold the break strand! Belaying with Munter hitch is reliable and reasonably comfortable. | Always hold the break strand! Belaying with Munter hitch is reliable and reasonably comfortable. In works smoothly when not loaded, but provides plenty of friction to catch a fall once tensioned. It works at any angle of the brake strand. The main drawback is that if the rope is pulled through the hitch under load (for example during belaying of the second climber or during abseiling), it tends to tangle the rope, which is together with the rope abrasion the main reasons why it is now used only rarely. | ||
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=== Belaying risks === | === Belaying risks === | ||
Belayer should keep their fingers at a respectful distance from the knot. Otherwise they might risk jamming the fingers into the belay, which might result in a severe finger injury.<ref>'''Warning - Gore''': {{cite web | url=https://rescue2training.com/tying-a-munter-hitch-around-an-object/ | title=Tying a Munter Hitch Around an Object (updated) | publisher=Rescue 2 Training | website=Rescue2Training.com | access-date=25 September 2025 | url-status=live | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20250925045809/https://rescue2training.com/tying-a-munter-hitch-around-an-object/ | archive-date=25 September 2025}}</ref> Belayer should also ensure to tie the Munter in a way that it wont interfere with the carabiner gate/lock. Otherwise the rope friction might unlock, and maybe even open the carabiner gate. | |||
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|File: Munter_fingers_safe.png | |File: Munter_fingers_safe.png | ||
|135px | |135px | ||
|When catching a fall, the rope slips a bit through the | |When catching a fall, the rope slips a bit through the Munter. Keep your hand in a respectful distance from the hitch... | ||
|File: Munter_fingers.png | |File: Munter_fingers.png | ||
|135px | |135px | ||
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|File: Hms belay with climber.png | |File: Hms belay with climber.png | ||
|120px | |120px | ||
|... tie the | |... tie the Munter in a way that it does not interfere with the carabiner gate/lock | ||
|File: | |File: hms_belay_left_bot.png | ||
|120px | |120px | ||
|Otherwise the rope friction might unlock... | |Otherwise the rope friction might unlock... | ||
|File: | |File: hms_belay_left_top.png | ||
|120px | |120px | ||
|... or even open the carabiner during belaying | |... or even open the carabiner during belaying | ||
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== Tie-off - Mule overhand == | == Tie-off - Mule overhand == | ||
To set your hands free from belaying, tie-off the mule overhand. The tie-off consists from a slipknot followed by an overhand knot. Both of them are tied around the sharp end of the rope. The knot looks very tangled as both of these knots are tied with a bight and the rope is also pulled through the carabiner. It takes practice to reliably tie and inspect the tie-off. | |||
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|File: hms_tieoff_step2_p8w.png | |File: hms_tieoff_step2_p8w.png | ||
|160px | |160px | ||
| | |Make a loop (2) | ||
|File: hms_tieoff_step3_p8w.png | |File: hms_tieoff_step3_p8w.png | ||
|160px | |160px | ||
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|File: Munter_tieoff_step5.png | |File: Munter_tieoff_step5.png | ||
|200px | |200px | ||
|Grab the bight with a hand (5) and simultaneously take slack out of the system while releasing the other hand (6), note that the break strand is always being held during this step | |Grab the bight with a hand (5) and simultaneously take slack out of the system while releasing the other hand (6), note that the break strand is still always being held during this step | ||
|File: hms_tieoff_step7_p8w.png | |File: hms_tieoff_step7_p8w.png | ||
|160px | |160px | ||
| Line 120: | Line 122: | ||
}} | }} | ||
<!--T:22--> | == Alternative tying methods == <!--T:22--> | ||
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|File: Hms hand step4.png | |File: Hms hand step4.png | ||
|120px | |120px | ||
|Visually inspect if everything is correct (5) and as a final check pull the break-strand (6) to see if the | |Visually inspect if everything is correct (5) and as a final check pull the break-strand (6) to see if the Munter hitch flips into another Munter | ||
}} | }} | ||
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|Visually inspect that everything is correct (7) and pull the break-strand (8)... | |Visually inspect that everything is correct (7) and pull the break-strand (8)... | ||
|File: hms_step7.png | |File: hms_step7.png | ||
|... to see if the | |... to see if the Munter hitch flips into another Munter hitch as a final check | ||
}} | }} | ||
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== References == | |||
{{reflist}} | |||
</translate> | </translate> | ||