Tuber (Tubular belay device): Difference between revisions

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Tubular belay devices are the most commonly used belay devices ~~during~~ training of advanced climbing and rescue techniques, multipitching and management of twin/double ropes. In some countries/clubs, they have been replaced by assisted tubular belay devices ~~for~~ single-pitch ~~training~~. They are prohibited in some gyms due to alleged security concerns (for details, see the security concerns section).

'''Tubular belay devices''' are the most commonly used belay devices for training of advanced climbing and rescue techniques, multipitching, and management of twin/double ropes. In some countries/clubs, they have been replaced by assisted tubular belay devices in single-pitch trainings. They are prohibited in some gyms due to the alleged security concerns (for details, see the [[#security concerns|security concerns section]]).

== Belaying from the harness ==

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|File:tuber_take_1.png

|155px

|~~Feed~~ the slack through the device by simultaneously moving both hands

|Take the slack through the device by simultaneously moving both hands

|File:tuber_take_2.png

|155px

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|File:tuber_take_3.png

|109px

|Tunnel up ~~the rope by~~ the belay hand to the resting position

|Tunnel-up the belay hand on the rope to the resting position

|File:tuber_take_4.png

|109px

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|File:tuber_feed_1.png

|130px

|Tunnel down

|Tunnel-down your belay hand

|File:tuber_feed_2.png

|130px

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=== General risks ===

Always hold/control the break strand with at least one hand and keep the break strand downwards unless giving or taking the slack. Keep your hand at least a few centimeters from the belay device to avoid pinching of the skin. Do not lift your hand too high (above the device) while giving the slack. One of the commonly seen bad ~~habit~~ is keeping the hand raised for a prolonged time ~~during belaying~~.

Always hold/control the break strand with at least one hand and keep the break strand downwards unless giving or taking the slack. Keep your hand at least a few centimeters from the belay device to avoid pinching of the skin. Do not lift your hand too high (above the device) while giving the slack. One of the commonly seen bad habits while belaying is keeping the belay hand raised for a prolonged period of time.

{{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery_with_widths

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|File:tuber_feeding_toohigh.png

|196px

|Do not lift the break hand ~~unnecessary~~ high during the break strand manipulation.

|Do not lift the break hand excessively high during the break strand manipulation.

|File:tuber_static_high.png

|196px

|Do not leave the hand in the ~~upper~~ position if not taking or giving the slack.

|Do not leave the hand in the elevated position if not taking or giving the slack.

}}

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During belay from harness at the anchor point ~~redirects~~ the rope through the anchor till the first two pieces of the running protection are placed.

During belay from harness at the anchor point, redirect the rope through the anchor till the first two pieces of the running protection are placed.

=== Anchor-belay risks ===

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== Security concerns ==

~~'''~~Disclaimer~~:''' ''~~This section reflects both subjective opinions and the positions of various alpine clubs. Qualified readers are encouraged to form their own judgment, or to follow the recommendations of recognized organizations. Unqualified readers are pointed to their club rules/recommendations. The aim here is not to prescribe one device over another, but to present different perspectives, so that climbers can make their own informed and responsible decisions. Neither Karl, nor any other contributor to this article promotes or discourages the use of specific devices; the responsibility lies fully with the climber and belayer.''

{{Disclaimer|This section reflects both subjective opinions and the positions of various alpine clubs. Qualified readers are encouraged to form their own judgment, or to follow the recommendations of recognized organizations. Unqualified readers are pointed to their club rules/recommendations. The aim here is not to prescribe one device over another, but to present different perspectives, so that climbers can make their own informed and responsible decisions. Neither [[User:Karl|Karl]], nor any other contributor to this article promotes or discourages the use of specific devices; the responsibility lies fully with the climber and belayer.}}

With non-assisted belay devices, the brake hand is the single point of failure. If the rope is released, a fall will not be slowed-down. While this carries inherent risk (if you let go, you let go), many climbers value these devices because they provide clear, immediate feedback on correct technique which helps to reinforce good habits. Also feeding the slack is except a few cases smoother than with assisted-breaking devices.

With non-assisted belay devices, the brake hand is the single point of failure. If the rope is released, a fall will not be slowed-down. While this carries inherent risk (if you let go, you let go), many climbers value these devices because they provide clear, immediate feedback on correct technique which helps to reinforce good habits. Also feeding the slack is except of a few cases smoother than with assisted-breaking devices.

Assisted belay devices, on the other hand, offer an additional layer of security, as the device itself can often stop a fall even if the break hand is not on position. This can reduce the likelihood of accidents. At the same time, the added security may also allow incorrect handling to go unnoticed and, over time, weaken safe habits as seen even among experienced users.<ref name=grigri_coach>{{Cite AV media | author=Hard is Easy | date=2 March 2025 | title=Coach Nearly Kills Pro Climber – GriGri Incident Analysis | url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WBGkKqLhM8Y | publisher=Hard is Easy | access-date=31 August 2025}}</ref>

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Different alpine clubs highlight different aspects. For instance the education commission of the Czech Alpine Club (ČHS),<ref>{{cite web | url=https://www.horosvaz.cz/res/archive/550/093301.pdf | title=Doporučení pro použití jistítek ve výuce (recommendation for using belay devices in teaching) | publisher=Český horolezecký svaz | first1=Břetislav | last1=Brodský | first2=Jiří | last2=Vogel | first3=Michael | last3=Hron | first4=Lukáš | last4=Tkáč | first5=Karel | last5=Kříž | first6=Michaela | last6=Adámková | website=Horosvaz.cz | date=13 August 2024 |access-date=31 August 2025}}</ref> highlights non-assisted devices for the way they build good habits, yet at the same time recommends assisted devices operated in a same way as the non-assisted ones for youth and newcomers.

There are reported severe accidents both for "letting go" while using non-assisted belay device<ref>{{cite web | url=https://www.climbing.com/skills/climbing-accident-rockfall-lost-belay/ | title=A Series Of Unfortunate Events—A Fortunate Groundfall Landing | publisher=Outside Interactive, Inc. | first1=Kevin | last1=Corrigan | website=Climbing.com | access-date=31 August 2025 | url-status=live | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230209015940/https://www.climbing.com/skills/climbing-accident-rockfall-lost-belay/ | archive-date=9 February 2023}}</ref> and for reckless handling of an assisted belay device.<ref name=grigri_coach/> However, most of the accidents occur not while belaying, but during abseiling (30%).<ref>{{cite web | url=https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201200200/Know-the-Ropes-Rappelling | title=Know the Ropes: Rappelling | publisher=The American Alpine Journal (AAJ) | first1=Rob | last1=Hess | website=American Alpine club | year=2012 | access-date=31 August 2025 | url-status=live | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20250522072859/https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201200200/Know-the-Ropes-Rappelling | archive-date=22 May 2025}}</ref> For this reason, good technique, clear communication and training in real conditions (fatigue resistance) remain the most critical safety priorities, regardless of the device used. Ultimately, the choice of the belay device is best made consciously and in agreement between belayer and climber as they are the one who carry the most imminent consequences of that choice.

There are reported severe accidents both for "letting go" while using non-assisted belay device<ref>{{cite web | url=https://www.climbing.com/skills/climbing-accident-rockfall-lost-belay/ | title=A Series Of Unfortunate Events—A Fortunate Groundfall Landing | publisher=Outside Interactive, Inc. | first1=Kevin | last1=Corrigan | website=Climbing.com | access-date=31 August 2025 | url-status=live | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230209015940/https://www.climbing.com/skills/climbing-accident-rockfall-lost-belay/ | archive-date=9 February 2023}}</ref> and for reckless handling of an assisted belay device.<ref name=grigri_coach/> However, most of the accidents occur not while belaying, but during abseiling (30%).<ref>{{cite web | url=https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201200200/Know-the-Ropes-Rappelling | title=Know the Ropes: Rappelling | publisher=The American Alpine Journal (AAJ) | first1=Rob | last1=Hess | website=American Alpine club | year=2012 | access-date=31 August 2025 | url-status=live | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20250522072859/https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201200200/Know-the-Ropes-Rappelling | archive-date=22 May 2025}}</ref><ref>'''Warning - Raw footage of fatal rappel failure''' (end knot(s) seem absent): {{Cite AV media | first1=Miller | last1=Balin | first2=Jørdan | last2=Cheyenne | date=4 October 2025 | title=Live stream footage of the young man that fell Oct 1st, 2025 - Bailin Miller | url=https://www.facebook.com/cheydunsing/videos/806524138417026/ | publisher=Facebook - True Crime, Mysteries, Morbid Events & More | access-date=5 October 2025}}</ref> For this reason, good technique, clear communication and training in real conditions (fatigue resistance) remain the most critical safety priorities, regardless of the device used. Ultimately, the choice of the belay device is best made consciously and in agreement between belayer and climber as they are the one who carry the most imminent consequences of that choice.

== References ==

@@ Line 9: / Line 9: @@
 }}
-Tubular belay devices are the most commonly used belay devices during training of advanced climbing and rescue techniques, multipitching and management of twin/double ropes. In some countries/clubs, they have been replaced by assisted tubular belay devices for single-pitch training. They are prohibited in some gyms due to alleged security concerns (for details, see the security concerns section).
+{{messagebox_checkstate}}
+'''Tubular belay devices''' are the most commonly used belay devices for training of advanced climbing and rescue techniques, multipitching, and management of twin/double ropes. In some countries/clubs, they have been replaced by assisted tubular belay devices in single-pitch trainings. They are prohibited in some gyms due to the alleged security concerns (for details, see the [[#security concerns|security concerns section]]).
 == Belaying from the harness ==
@@ Line 20: / Line 22: @@
 |File:tuber_take_1.png
 |155px
-|Feed the slack through the device by simultaneously moving both hands
+|Take the slack through the device by simultaneously moving both hands
 |File:tuber_take_2.png
 |155px
@@ Line 26: / Line 28: @@
 |File:tuber_take_3.png
 |109px
-|Tunnel up the rope by the belay hand to the resting position
+|Tunnel-up the belay hand on the rope to the resting position
 |File:tuber_take_4.png
 |109px
@@ Line 36: / Line 38: @@
 |File:tuber_feed_1.png
 |130px
-|Tunnel down
+|Tunnel-down your belay hand
 |File:tuber_feed_2.png
 |130px
@@ Line 49: / Line 51: @@
 === General risks ===
-Always hold/control the break strand with at least one hand and keep the break strand downwards unless giving or taking the slack. Keep your hand at least a few centimeters from the belay device to avoid pinching of the skin. Do not lift your hand too high (above the device) while giving the slack. One of the commonly seen bad habit is keeping the hand raised for a prolonged time during belaying.
+Always hold/control the break strand with at least one hand and keep the break strand downwards unless giving or taking the slack. Keep your hand at least a few centimeters from the belay device to avoid pinching of the skin. Do not lift your hand too high (above the device) while giving the slack. One of the commonly seen bad habits while belaying is keeping the belay hand raised for a prolonged period of time.
 {{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery_with_widths
@@ Line 66: / Line 68: @@
 |File:tuber_feeding_toohigh.png
 |196px
-|Do not lift the break hand unnecessary high during the break strand manipulation.
+|Do not lift the break hand excessively high during the break strand manipulation.
 |File:tuber_static_high.png
 |196px
-|Do not leave the hand in the upper position if not taking or giving the slack.
+|Do not leave the hand in the elevated position if not taking or giving the slack.
 }}
@@ Line 107: / Line 109: @@
 }}
-During belay from harness at the anchor point redirects the rope through the anchor till the first two pieces of the running protection are placed.
+During belay from harness at the anchor point, redirect the rope through the anchor till the first two pieces of the running protection are placed.
 === Anchor-belay risks ===
@@ Line 129: / Line 131: @@
 == Security concerns ==
-'''Disclaimer:''' ''This section reflects both subjective opinions and the positions of various alpine clubs. Qualified readers are encouraged to form their own judgment, or to follow the recommendations of recognized organizations. Unqualified readers are pointed to their club rules/recommendations. The aim here is not to prescribe one device over another, but to present different perspectives, so that climbers can make their own informed and responsible decisions. Neither Karl, nor any other contributor to this article promotes or discourages the use of specific devices; the responsibility lies fully with the climber and belayer.''
+{{Disclaimer|This section reflects both subjective opinions and the positions of various alpine clubs. Qualified readers are encouraged to form their own judgment, or to follow the recommendations of recognized organizations. Unqualified readers are pointed to their club rules/recommendations. The aim here is not to prescribe one device over another, but to present different perspectives, so that climbers can make their own informed and responsible decisions. Neither [[User:Karl|Karl]], nor any other contributor to this article promotes or discourages the use of specific devices; the responsibility lies fully with the climber and belayer.}}
-With non-assisted belay devices, the brake hand is the single point of failure. If the rope is released, a fall will not be slowed-down. While this carries inherent risk (if you let go, you let go), many climbers value these devices because they provide clear, immediate feedback on correct technique which helps to reinforce good habits. Also feeding the slack is except a few cases smoother than with assisted-breaking devices.
+With non-assisted belay devices, the brake hand is the single point of failure. If the rope is released, a fall will not be slowed-down. While this carries inherent risk (if you let go, you let go), many climbers value these devices because they provide clear, immediate feedback on correct technique which helps to reinforce good habits. Also feeding the slack is except of a few cases smoother than with assisted-breaking devices.
 Assisted belay devices, on the other hand, offer an additional layer of security, as the device itself can often stop a fall even if the break hand is not on position. This can reduce the likelihood of accidents. At the same time, the added security may also allow incorrect handling to go unnoticed and, over time, weaken safe habits as seen even among experienced users.<ref name=grigri_coach>{{Cite AV media | author=Hard is Easy | date=2 March 2025 | title=Coach Nearly Kills Pro Climber – GriGri Incident Analysis | url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WBGkKqLhM8Y | publisher=Hard is Easy | access-date=31 August 2025}}</ref>
@@ Line 139: / Line 141: @@
 Different alpine clubs highlight different aspects. For instance the education commission of the Czech Alpine Club (ČHS),<ref>{{cite web | url=https://www.horosvaz.cz/res/archive/550/093301.pdf | title=Doporučení pro použití jistítek ve výuce (recommendation for using belay devices in teaching) | publisher=Český horolezecký svaz | first1=Břetislav | last1=Brodský | first2=Jiří | last2=Vogel | first3=Michael | last3=Hron | first4=Lukáš | last4=Tkáč | first5=Karel | last5=Kříž | first6=Michaela | last6=Adámková | website=Horosvaz.cz | date=13 August 2024 |access-date=31 August 2025}}</ref> highlights non-assisted devices for the way they build good habits, yet at the same time recommends assisted devices operated in a same way as the non-assisted ones for youth and newcomers.
-There are reported severe accidents both for "letting go" while using non-assisted belay device<ref>{{cite web | url=https://www.climbing.com/skills/climbing-accident-rockfall-lost-belay/ | title=A Series Of Unfortunate Events—A Fortunate Groundfall Landing | publisher=Outside Interactive, Inc. | first1=Kevin | last1=Corrigan | website=Climbing.com | access-date=31 August 2025 | url-status=live | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230209015940/https://www.climbing.com/skills/climbing-accident-rockfall-lost-belay/ | archive-date=9 February 2023}}</ref> and for reckless handling of an assisted belay device.<ref name=grigri_coach/> However, most of the accidents occur not while belaying, but during abseiling (30%).<ref>{{cite web | url=https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201200200/Know-the-Ropes-Rappelling | title=Know the Ropes: Rappelling | publisher=The American Alpine Journal (AAJ)  | first1=Rob | last1=Hess | website=American Alpine club | year=2012 | access-date=31 August 2025 | url-status=live | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20250522072859/https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201200200/Know-the-Ropes-Rappelling | archive-date=22 May 2025}}</ref> For this reason, good technique, clear communication and training in real conditions (fatigue resistance) remain the most critical safety priorities, regardless of the device used. Ultimately, the choice of the belay device is best made consciously and in agreement between belayer and climber as they are the one who carry the most imminent consequences of that choice.
+There are reported severe accidents both for "letting go" while using non-assisted belay device<ref>{{cite web | url=https://www.climbing.com/skills/climbing-accident-rockfall-lost-belay/ | title=A Series Of Unfortunate Events—A Fortunate Groundfall Landing | publisher=Outside Interactive, Inc. | first1=Kevin | last1=Corrigan | website=Climbing.com | access-date=31 August 2025 | url-status=live | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230209015940/https://www.climbing.com/skills/climbing-accident-rockfall-lost-belay/ | archive-date=9 February 2023}}</ref> and for reckless handling of an assisted belay device.<ref name=grigri_coach/> However, most of the accidents occur not while belaying, but during abseiling (30%).<ref>{{cite web | url=https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201200200/Know-the-Ropes-Rappelling | title=Know the Ropes: Rappelling | publisher=The American Alpine Journal (AAJ)  | first1=Rob | last1=Hess | website=American Alpine club | year=2012 | access-date=31 August 2025 | url-status=live | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20250522072859/https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201200200/Know-the-Ropes-Rappelling | archive-date=22 May 2025}}</ref><ref>'''Warning - Raw footage of fatal rappel failure''' (end knot(s) seem absent): {{Cite AV media | first1=Miller | last1=Balin | first2=Jørdan | last2=Cheyenne | date=4 October 2025 | title=Live stream footage of the young man that fell Oct 1st, 2025 - Bailin Miller | url=https://www.facebook.com/cheydunsing/videos/806524138417026/ | publisher=Facebook - True Crime, Mysteries, Morbid Events & More | access-date=5 October 2025}}</ref> For this reason, good technique, clear communication and training in real conditions (fatigue resistance) remain the most critical safety priorities, regardless of the device used. Ultimately, the choice of the belay device is best made consciously and in agreement between belayer and climber as they are the one who carry the most imminent consequences of that choice.
 == References ==