Tuber (Tubular belay device): Difference between revisions

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| cons = Does not provide assisted braking function, it blocks only if dead rope is in the opposite direction to the live rope, can bite into skin of the brake hand index finger if used inappropriately, in majority of the devices the setup for lowering of a second climber is cumbersome

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'''Tubular belay devices''' are the most commonly used belay devices for training of advanced climbing and rescue techniques, multipitching, and management of twin/double ropes. In some countries/clubs, they have been replaced by assisted tubular belay devices in single-pitch trainings. They are prohibited in some gyms due to the alleged security concerns (for details, see the [[#security concerns|security concerns section]]).

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== Security concerns ==

~~'''~~Disclaimer~~:''' ''~~This section reflects both subjective opinions and the positions of various alpine clubs. Qualified readers are encouraged to form their own judgment, or to follow the recommendations of recognized organizations. Unqualified readers are pointed to their club rules/recommendations. The aim here is not to prescribe one device over another, but to present different perspectives, so that climbers can make their own informed and responsible decisions. Neither Karl, nor any other contributor to this article promotes or discourages the use of specific devices; the responsibility lies fully with the climber and belayer.''

{{Disclaimer|This section reflects both subjective opinions and the positions of various alpine clubs. Qualified readers are encouraged to form their own judgment, or to follow the recommendations of recognized organizations. Unqualified readers are pointed to their club rules/recommendations. The aim here is not to prescribe one device over another, but to present different perspectives, so that climbers can make their own informed and responsible decisions. Neither [[User:Karl|Karl]], nor any other contributor to this article promotes or discourages the use of specific devices; the responsibility lies fully with the climber and belayer.}}

With non-assisted belay devices, the brake hand is the single point of failure. If the rope is released, a fall will not be slowed-down. While this carries inherent risk (if you let go, you let go), many climbers value these devices because they provide clear, immediate feedback on correct technique which helps to reinforce good habits. Also feeding the slack is except a few cases smoother than with assisted-breaking devices.

With non-assisted belay devices, the brake hand is the single point of failure. If the rope is released, a fall will not be slowed-down. While this carries inherent risk (if you let go, you let go), many climbers value these devices because they provide clear, immediate feedback on correct technique which helps to reinforce good habits. Also feeding the slack is except of a few cases smoother than with assisted-breaking devices.

Assisted belay devices, on the other hand, offer an additional layer of security, as the device itself can often stop a fall even if the break hand is not on position. This can reduce the likelihood of accidents. At the same time, the added security may also allow incorrect handling to go unnoticed and, over time, weaken safe habits as seen even among experienced users.<ref name=grigri_coach>{{Cite AV media | author=Hard is Easy | date=2 March 2025 | title=Coach Nearly Kills Pro Climber – GriGri Incident Analysis | url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WBGkKqLhM8Y | publisher=Hard is Easy | access-date=31 August 2025}}</ref>

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Different alpine clubs highlight different aspects. For instance the education commission of the Czech Alpine Club (ČHS),<ref>{{cite web | url=https://www.horosvaz.cz/res/archive/550/093301.pdf | title=Doporučení pro použití jistítek ve výuce (recommendation for using belay devices in teaching) | publisher=Český horolezecký svaz | first1=Břetislav | last1=Brodský | first2=Jiří | last2=Vogel | first3=Michael | last3=Hron | first4=Lukáš | last4=Tkáč | first5=Karel | last5=Kříž | first6=Michaela | last6=Adámková | website=Horosvaz.cz | date=13 August 2024 |access-date=31 August 2025}}</ref> highlights non-assisted devices for the way they build good habits, yet at the same time recommends assisted devices operated in a same way as the non-assisted ones for youth and newcomers.

There are reported severe accidents both for "letting go" while using non-assisted belay device<ref>{{cite web | url=https://www.climbing.com/skills/climbing-accident-rockfall-lost-belay/ | title=A Series Of Unfortunate Events—A Fortunate Groundfall Landing | publisher=Outside Interactive, Inc. | first1=Kevin | last1=Corrigan | website=Climbing.com | access-date=31 August 2025 | url-status=live | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230209015940/https://www.climbing.com/skills/climbing-accident-rockfall-lost-belay/ | archive-date=9 February 2023}}</ref> and for reckless handling of an assisted belay device.<ref name=grigri_coach/> However, most of the accidents occur not while belaying, but during abseiling (30%).<ref>{{cite web | url=https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201200200/Know-the-Ropes-Rappelling | title=Know the Ropes: Rappelling | publisher=The American Alpine Journal (AAJ) | first1=Rob | last1=Hess | website=American Alpine club | year=2012 | access-date=31 August 2025 | url-status=live | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20250522072859/https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201200200/Know-the-Ropes-Rappelling | archive-date=22 May 2025}}</ref> For this reason, good technique, clear communication and training in real conditions (fatigue resistance) remain the most critical safety priorities, regardless of the device used. Ultimately, the choice of the belay device is best made consciously and in agreement between belayer and climber as they are the one who carry the most imminent consequences of that choice.

There are reported severe accidents both for "letting go" while using non-assisted belay device<ref>{{cite web | url=https://www.climbing.com/skills/climbing-accident-rockfall-lost-belay/ | title=A Series Of Unfortunate Events—A Fortunate Groundfall Landing | publisher=Outside Interactive, Inc. | first1=Kevin | last1=Corrigan | website=Climbing.com | access-date=31 August 2025 | url-status=live | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230209015940/https://www.climbing.com/skills/climbing-accident-rockfall-lost-belay/ | archive-date=9 February 2023}}</ref> and for reckless handling of an assisted belay device.<ref name=grigri_coach/> However, most of the accidents occur not while belaying, but during abseiling (30%).<ref>{{cite web | url=https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201200200/Know-the-Ropes-Rappelling | title=Know the Ropes: Rappelling | publisher=The American Alpine Journal (AAJ) | first1=Rob | last1=Hess | website=American Alpine club | year=2012 | access-date=31 August 2025 | url-status=live | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20250522072859/https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201200200/Know-the-Ropes-Rappelling | archive-date=22 May 2025}}</ref><ref>'''Warning - Raw footage of fatal rappel failure''' (end knot(s) seem absent): {{Cite AV media | first1=Miller | last1=Balin | first2=Jørdan | last2=Cheyenne | date=4 October 2025 | title=Live stream footage of the young man that fell Oct 1st, 2025 - Bailin Miller | url=https://www.facebook.com/cheydunsing/videos/806524138417026/ | publisher=Facebook - True Crime, Mysteries, Morbid Events & More | access-date=5 October 2025}}</ref> For this reason, good technique, clear communication and training in real conditions (fatigue resistance) remain the most critical safety priorities, regardless of the device used. Ultimately, the choice of the belay device is best made consciously and in agreement between belayer and climber as they are the one who carry the most imminent consequences of that choice.

== References ==

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 | cons = Does not provide assisted braking function, it blocks only if dead rope is in the opposite direction to the live rope, can bite into skin of the brake hand index finger if used inappropriately, in majority of the devices the setup for lowering of a second climber is cumbersome
 }}
+{{messagebox_checkstate}}
 '''Tubular belay devices''' are the most commonly used belay devices for training of advanced climbing and rescue techniques, multipitching, and management of twin/double ropes. In some countries/clubs, they have been replaced by assisted tubular belay devices in single-pitch trainings. They are prohibited in some gyms due to the alleged security concerns (for details, see the [[#security concerns|security concerns section]]).
@@ Line 129: / Line 131: @@
 == Security concerns ==
-'''Disclaimer:''' ''This section reflects both subjective opinions and the positions of various alpine clubs. Qualified readers are encouraged to form their own judgment, or to follow the recommendations of recognized organizations. Unqualified readers are pointed to their club rules/recommendations. The aim here is not to prescribe one device over another, but to present different perspectives, so that climbers can make their own informed and responsible decisions. Neither Karl, nor any other contributor to this article promotes or discourages the use of specific devices; the responsibility lies fully with the climber and belayer.''
+{{Disclaimer|This section reflects both subjective opinions and the positions of various alpine clubs. Qualified readers are encouraged to form their own judgment, or to follow the recommendations of recognized organizations. Unqualified readers are pointed to their club rules/recommendations. The aim here is not to prescribe one device over another, but to present different perspectives, so that climbers can make their own informed and responsible decisions. Neither [[User:Karl|Karl]], nor any other contributor to this article promotes or discourages the use of specific devices; the responsibility lies fully with the climber and belayer.}}
-With non-assisted belay devices, the brake hand is the single point of failure. If the rope is released, a fall will not be slowed-down. While this carries inherent risk (if you let go, you let go), many climbers value these devices because they provide clear, immediate feedback on correct technique which helps to reinforce good habits. Also feeding the slack is except a few cases smoother than with assisted-breaking devices.
+With non-assisted belay devices, the brake hand is the single point of failure. If the rope is released, a fall will not be slowed-down. While this carries inherent risk (if you let go, you let go), many climbers value these devices because they provide clear, immediate feedback on correct technique which helps to reinforce good habits. Also feeding the slack is except of a few cases smoother than with assisted-breaking devices.
 Assisted belay devices, on the other hand, offer an additional layer of security, as the device itself can often stop a fall even if the break hand is not on position. This can reduce the likelihood of accidents. At the same time, the added security may also allow incorrect handling to go unnoticed and, over time, weaken safe habits as seen even among experienced users.<ref name=grigri_coach>{{Cite AV media | author=Hard is Easy | date=2 March 2025 | title=Coach Nearly Kills Pro Climber – GriGri Incident Analysis | url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WBGkKqLhM8Y | publisher=Hard is Easy | access-date=31 August 2025}}</ref>
@@ Line 139: / Line 141: @@
 Different alpine clubs highlight different aspects. For instance the education commission of the Czech Alpine Club (ČHS),<ref>{{cite web | url=https://www.horosvaz.cz/res/archive/550/093301.pdf | title=Doporučení pro použití jistítek ve výuce (recommendation for using belay devices in teaching) | publisher=Český horolezecký svaz | first1=Břetislav | last1=Brodský | first2=Jiří | last2=Vogel | first3=Michael | last3=Hron | first4=Lukáš | last4=Tkáč | first5=Karel | last5=Kříž | first6=Michaela | last6=Adámková | website=Horosvaz.cz | date=13 August 2024 |access-date=31 August 2025}}</ref> highlights non-assisted devices for the way they build good habits, yet at the same time recommends assisted devices operated in a same way as the non-assisted ones for youth and newcomers.
-There are reported severe accidents both for "letting go" while using non-assisted belay device<ref>{{cite web | url=https://www.climbing.com/skills/climbing-accident-rockfall-lost-belay/ | title=A Series Of Unfortunate Events—A Fortunate Groundfall Landing | publisher=Outside Interactive, Inc. | first1=Kevin | last1=Corrigan | website=Climbing.com | access-date=31 August 2025 | url-status=live | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230209015940/https://www.climbing.com/skills/climbing-accident-rockfall-lost-belay/ | archive-date=9 February 2023}}</ref> and for reckless handling of an assisted belay device.<ref name=grigri_coach/> However, most of the accidents occur not while belaying, but during abseiling (30%).<ref>{{cite web | url=https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201200200/Know-the-Ropes-Rappelling | title=Know the Ropes: Rappelling | publisher=The American Alpine Journal (AAJ)  | first1=Rob | last1=Hess | website=American Alpine club | year=2012 | access-date=31 August 2025 | url-status=live | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20250522072859/https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201200200/Know-the-Ropes-Rappelling | archive-date=22 May 2025}}</ref> For this reason, good technique, clear communication and training in real conditions (fatigue resistance) remain the most critical safety priorities, regardless of the device used. Ultimately, the choice of the belay device is best made consciously and in agreement between belayer and climber as they are the one who carry the most imminent consequences of that choice.
+There are reported severe accidents both for "letting go" while using non-assisted belay device<ref>{{cite web | url=https://www.climbing.com/skills/climbing-accident-rockfall-lost-belay/ | title=A Series Of Unfortunate Events—A Fortunate Groundfall Landing | publisher=Outside Interactive, Inc. | first1=Kevin | last1=Corrigan | website=Climbing.com | access-date=31 August 2025 | url-status=live | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230209015940/https://www.climbing.com/skills/climbing-accident-rockfall-lost-belay/ | archive-date=9 February 2023}}</ref> and for reckless handling of an assisted belay device.<ref name=grigri_coach/> However, most of the accidents occur not while belaying, but during abseiling (30%).<ref>{{cite web | url=https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201200200/Know-the-Ropes-Rappelling | title=Know the Ropes: Rappelling | publisher=The American Alpine Journal (AAJ)  | first1=Rob | last1=Hess | website=American Alpine club | year=2012 | access-date=31 August 2025 | url-status=live | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20250522072859/https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201200200/Know-the-Ropes-Rappelling | archive-date=22 May 2025}}</ref><ref>'''Warning - Raw footage of fatal rappel failure''' (end knot(s) seem absent): {{Cite AV media | first1=Miller | last1=Balin | first2=Jørdan | last2=Cheyenne | date=4 October 2025 | title=Live stream footage of the young man that fell Oct 1st, 2025 - Bailin Miller | url=https://www.facebook.com/cheydunsing/videos/806524138417026/ | publisher=Facebook - True Crime, Mysteries, Morbid Events & More | access-date=5 October 2025}}</ref> For this reason, good technique, clear communication and training in real conditions (fatigue resistance) remain the most critical safety priorities, regardless of the device used. Ultimately, the choice of the belay device is best made consciously and in agreement between belayer and climber as they are the one who carry the most imminent consequences of that choice.
 == References ==