Carabiner: Difference between revisions

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'''Carabiners''' are nowadays as essential for the mountaineering and climbing as a rope. Types of carabiners used in climbing and their applications are discussed in-detail below.

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Certified climbing carabiners are generally very safe if used properly. However, in some cases their strength and reliability gets compromised by improper handling. In addition, for specific applications, climbing associations recommends using carabiners with increased gate-opening protection.

Prevent carabiners from cross-loading. They are often still able to withstand up to ~7 kN of force, but that is only a fraction of their nominal strength. With wired-gate carabiners, cross-loading might in-addition induce a rope strain if the rope is loaded over the gate. Prevent placing the carabiner in a way that its gate faces towards the rock and/or the rock features, it might result in opening the gate. You can prevent this by orienting the carabiner so that the gate points in a free direction.<ref>{{cite web | url=https://www.ocun.com/data/files/sites/3vnkgz9j.pdf | title=Instructions for the use of connectors EN 566 and carabiners (EN 12275). (v250520) | publisher=Ocun (RP Climbing s.r.o.) | author1=Ocun | website=Ocun.com/service/instructions | date=May 28, 2025 | access-date=1 September 2025}}</ref>

Prevent carabiners from cross-loading. They are often still able to withstand up to ~7 kN of force, but that is only a fraction of their nominal strength. With wired-gate carabiners, cross-loading might in-addition induce a rope strain if the rope is loaded over the gate. Prevent placing the carabiner in a way that its gate faces towards the rock and/or the rock features, it might result in opening the gate. You can prevent this by orienting the carabiner so that the gate points in a free direction.<ref>{{cite web | url=https://www.ocun.com/data/files/sites/3vnkgz9j.pdf | title=Instructions for the use of connectors EN 566 and carabiners (EN 12275). (v250520) | publisher=Ocun (RP Climbing s.r.o.) | author1=Ocun | website=Ocun.com/service/instructions | date=May 28, 2025 | access-date=1 September 2025}}</ref>

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Do not place carabiners in a way that they would get loaded over a rock edge. HowNOT2 recorded a measurement where he cracked a sideway-loaded carabiner below 4 kN.<ref name=hownot2>{{Cite AV media | first1=Ryan | last1=Jenks | date=7 June 2021 | title=Carabiners Loaded Sideways!?!? | url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=buNotkWWLHg | publisher=HowNOT2 | access-date=1 September 2025}}</ref> That is roughly half of the force a carabiner placed in the last protection piece experiences during a catch of a big lead fall. Therefore there is a very realistic chance the carabiner loaded over an edge might fail during a lead-climb fall. If you want to secure yourself to an inconviently placed bolt or a piton, extend it by a sling or a rope as illustrated below.<ref>{{cite web | url=https://horolezeckametodika.cz/karabiny-v-jisteni | title=Karabiny v Jištění (Carabiners in protection) | publisher=HOROLEZECKÁ METODIKA | first1=Tomáš | last1=Kublák | website=Horolezeckametodika.cz | access-date=1 September 2025}}</ref>

Do not place carabiners in a way that they would get loaded over a rock edge. HowNOT2 recorded a measurement where he cracked a sideway-loaded carabiner below 4 kN.<ref name=hownot2>{{Cite AV media | first1=Ryan | last1=Jenks | date=7 June 2021 | title=Carabiners Loaded Sideways!?!? | url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=buNotkWWLHg | publisher=HowNOT2 | access-date=1 September 2025}}</ref> That is roughly half of the force a carabiner placed in the last protection piece experiences during a catch of a big lead fall. Therefore there is a very realistic chance the carabiner loaded over an edge might fail during a lead-climb fall. If you want to secure yourself to an inconviently placed bolt or a piton, extend it by a sling or a rope as illustrated below.<ref>{{cite web | url=https://horolezeckametodika.cz/karabiny-v-jisteni | title=Karabiny v Jištění (Carabiners in protection) | publisher=HOROLEZECKÁ METODIKA | first1=Tomáš | last1=Kublák | website=Horolezeckametodika.cz | access-date=1 September 2025}}</ref>

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 '''Carabiners''' are nowadays as essential for the mountaineering and climbing as a rope. Types of carabiners used in climbing and their applications are discussed in-detail below.
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 Certified climbing carabiners are generally very safe if used properly. However, in some cases their strength and reliability gets compromised by improper handling. In addition, for specific applications, climbing associations recommends using carabiners with increased gate-opening protection.
-Prevent carabiners from cross-loading. They are often still able to withstand up to ~7 kN of force, but that is only a fraction of their nominal strength. With wired-gate carabiners, cross-loading might in-addition induce a rope strain if the rope is loaded over the gate. Prevent placing the carabiner in a way that its gate faces towards the rock and/or the rock features, it might result in opening the gate. You can prevent this by orienting the carabiner so that the gate points in a free direction.<ref>{{cite web | url=https://www.ocun.com/data/files/sites/3vnkgz9j.pdf | title=Instructions for the use of connectors EN 566 and carabiners (EN 12275). (v250520) | publisher=Ocun (RP Climbing s.r.o.) | author1=Ocun | website=Ocun.com/service/instructions | date=May 28, 2025 | access-date=1 September 2025}}</ref>
+Prevent carabiners from cross-loading. They are often still able to withstand up to ~7&nbsp;kN of force, but that is only a fraction of their nominal strength. With wired-gate carabiners, cross-loading might in-addition induce a rope strain if the rope is loaded over the gate. Prevent placing the carabiner in a way that its gate faces towards the rock and/or the rock features, it might result in opening the gate. You can prevent this by orienting the carabiner so that the gate points in a free direction.<ref>{{cite web | url=https://www.ocun.com/data/files/sites/3vnkgz9j.pdf | title=Instructions for the use of connectors EN 566 and carabiners (EN 12275). (v250520) | publisher=Ocun (RP Climbing s.r.o.) | author1=Ocun | website=Ocun.com/service/instructions | date=May 28, 2025 | access-date=1 September 2025}}</ref>
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-Do not place carabiners in a way that they would get loaded over a rock edge. HowNOT2 recorded a measurement where he cracked a sideway-loaded carabiner below 4 kN.<ref name=hownot2>{{Cite AV media | first1=Ryan | last1=Jenks | date=7 June 2021 | title=Carabiners Loaded Sideways!?!? | url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=buNotkWWLHg | publisher=HowNOT2 | access-date=1 September 2025}}</ref> That is roughly half of the force a  carabiner placed in the last protection piece experiences during a catch of a big lead fall. Therefore there is a very realistic chance the carabiner loaded over an edge might fail during a lead-climb fall. If you want to secure yourself to an inconviently placed bolt or a piton, extend it by a sling or a rope as illustrated below.<ref>{{cite web | url=https://horolezeckametodika.cz/karabiny-v-jisteni | title=Karabiny v Jištění (Carabiners in protection) | publisher=HOROLEZECKÁ METODIKA | first1=Tomáš | last1=Kublák | website=Horolezeckametodika.cz | access-date=1 September 2025}}</ref>
+Do not place carabiners in a way that they would get loaded over a rock edge. HowNOT2 recorded a measurement where he cracked a sideway-loaded carabiner below 4&nbsp;kN.<ref name=hownot2>{{Cite AV media | first1=Ryan | last1=Jenks | date=7 June 2021 | title=Carabiners Loaded Sideways!?!? | url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=buNotkWWLHg | publisher=HowNOT2 | access-date=1 September 2025}}</ref> That is roughly half of the force a  carabiner placed in the last protection piece experiences during a catch of a big lead fall. Therefore there is a very realistic chance the carabiner loaded over an edge might fail during a lead-climb fall. If you want to secure yourself to an inconviently placed bolt or a piton, extend it by a sling or a rope as illustrated below.<ref>{{cite web | url=https://horolezeckametodika.cz/karabiny-v-jisteni | title=Karabiny v Jištění (Carabiners in protection) | publisher=HOROLEZECKÁ METODIKA | first1=Tomáš | last1=Kublák | website=Horolezeckametodika.cz | access-date=1 September 2025}}</ref>
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