Figure eight: Difference between revisions
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{{Infobox knot | {{Infobox knot | ||
| image = File: Fig8.jpg | | image = File: Fig8.jpg | ||
| image_alt = Figure-eight loop | |||
| other_names = Figure 8, eight | | other_names = Figure 8, eight | ||
| pros = Reliable, easy to inspect, low decrease of the rope strength | | pros = Reliable, easy to inspect, low decrease of the rope strength | ||
| Line 20: | Line 21: | ||
This method is the most commonly used method for tying-in onto a rope end. | This method is the most commonly used method for tying-in onto a rope end. | ||
{{#invoke:FlexGallery| | {{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery_with_widths_alt | ||
|File: fig8_step1.png | |File: fig8_step1.png | ||
|90px | |90px | ||
|Take a bight of a rope and turn its one end around the other, making a full 360° turn (1) | |Take a bight of a rope and turn its one end around the other, making a full 360° turn (1) | ||
|rope bight with one end twisted around the other | |||
|File: fig8_step2.png | |File: fig8_step2.png | ||
|90px | |90px | ||
|Pull the rope through the upper eye (2), creating a figure-eight knot | |Pull the rope through the upper eye (2), creating a figure-eight knot | ||
|twisted rope bight with an arrow pointing through the top loop | |||
|File: fig8_step3.png | |File: fig8_step3.png | ||
|180px | |180px | ||
|Pull the rope through both eyes of a harness next to the belay loop (3) | |Pull the rope through both eyes of a harness next to the belay loop (3) | ||
|figure-eight knot with an arrow from the rope end through the harness eyes | |||
|File: fig8_step4.png | |File: fig8_step4.png | ||
|180px | |180px | ||
|Continue by following-through... (4) | |Continue by following-through... (4) | ||
|rope with figure-eight knot, one rope end is pulled through harness and being directed to follow the knot through | |||
|File: fig8_step5.png | |File: fig8_step5.png | ||
|180px | |180px | ||
|... the original figure-eight (5)... | |... the original figure-eight (5)... | ||
|rope with figure-eight knot, one rope end is pulled through harness and being directed to follow the knot through | |||
|File: fig8_step6.png | |File: fig8_step6.png | ||
|180px | |180px | ||
|... knot (6) | |... knot (6) | ||
|rope with figure-eight knot, one rope end is pulled through harness and being directed to follow the knot through | |||
|File: fig8_step7to10.png|180px | |File: fig8_step7to10.png|180px | ||
|Tighten the rope ends one at a time (7,8,9,10) | |Tighten the rope ends one at a time (7,8,9,10) | ||
|loose figure eight tied on a harness, arrows pointing out from the knot | |||
|File: fig8_step11.png | |File: fig8_step11.png | ||
|180px | |180px | ||
|Inspect the knot and check if the loop is threaded through the harness correctly (11) | |Inspect the knot and check if the loop is threaded through the harness correctly (11) | ||
|tightened figure eight on a harness, eye icon | |||
}} | }} | ||
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=== On a bight (tie in in a middle) === | === On a bight (tie in in a middle) === | ||
{{#invoke:FlexGallery| | {{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery_with_alt|100px | ||
|File: fig8_mid_step1.png | |File: fig8_mid_step1.png | ||
|Take a bight of a rope and do a bend (1) | |Take a bight of a rope and do a bend (1) | ||
|rope bight with an arrow | |||
|File: fig8_mid_step2.png | |File: fig8_mid_step2.png | ||
|Make a full 360° turn of the bend around the rope strands (2) | |Make a full 360° turn of the bend around the rope strands (2) | ||
|bent rope bight with an arrow around the bight | |||
|File: fig8_mid_step3.png | |File: fig8_mid_step3.png | ||
|Pull the bight through the loop made by the turn (3) | |Pull the bight through the loop made by the turn (3) | ||
|bent rope bight tangled around the rope strands with arrow pointing through a loop | |||
|File: fig8_mid_step4.png | |File: fig8_mid_step4.png | ||
|Slightly tighten the knot (4) | |Slightly tighten the knot (4) | ||
|Very loose figure eight | |||
|File: fig8_mid_step5.png | |File: fig8_mid_step5.png | ||
|If the knot is malformed, dress it for easier inspection (5) | |If the knot is malformed, dress it for easier inspection (5) | ||
|figure eight | |||
|File: fig8_mid_step6.png | |File: fig8_mid_step6.png | ||
|Inspect the knot (6) | |Inspect the knot (6) | ||
|dressed figure eight with an eye icon | |||
}} | }} | ||
| Line 67: | Line 82: | ||
In some cases, Figure 8 tends to get hard to untie. To prevent this issues, always dress the knot and tie its form where the load strand goes in a bigger diameter around the center of the knot, as illustrated below. This variant also has a slightly higher loading limit according to some sources (10% difference, both variants are completely safe).<ref>{{cite web | url=https://www.lezec.cz/clanek.php?key=841 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20240226094325/https://www.lezec.cz/clanek.php?key=841 | archive-date=26 February 2024 | url-status=live | title=Metodické ústřižky III. | publisher=EnergyCloud Trade, s.r.o. | first1=''John'' Jiří | last1=Žižka | first2=''Bolek'' Karel | last2=Kříž | date=16 September 2002 | website=lezec.cz | access-date=16 August 2025}}</ref> The issue of figure 8 getting stuck was well studied and documented/illustrated by Hard is Easy.<ref>{{Cite AV media | people= Hard is easy | date=29 August 2020 | title=Why Figure 8 knot is NOT hard to untie! | url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QAr-uHd8h8o | publisher=Hard is Easy | access-date=16 August 2025}}</ref> If the figure 8 is not dressed and tightened properly before loading it, it tends to malform substantially after taking a fall. Malformation leads to a knot state in which the figure 8 is hard and sometimes even almost impossible to untie. Rope parameters (diameter, stiffness) also play a role. Last very important parameter discovered was if the load strand goes on the top of the knot, or in the middle of it. | In some cases, Figure 8 tends to get hard to untie. To prevent this issues, always dress the knot and tie its form where the load strand goes in a bigger diameter around the center of the knot, as illustrated below. This variant also has a slightly higher loading limit according to some sources (10% difference, both variants are completely safe).<ref>{{cite web | url=https://www.lezec.cz/clanek.php?key=841 | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20240226094325/https://www.lezec.cz/clanek.php?key=841 | archive-date=26 February 2024 | url-status=live | title=Metodické ústřižky III. | publisher=EnergyCloud Trade, s.r.o. | first1=''John'' Jiří | last1=Žižka | first2=''Bolek'' Karel | last2=Kříž | date=16 September 2002 | website=lezec.cz | access-date=16 August 2025}}</ref> The issue of figure 8 getting stuck was well studied and documented/illustrated by Hard is Easy.<ref>{{Cite AV media | people= Hard is easy | date=29 August 2020 | title=Why Figure 8 knot is NOT hard to untie! | url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QAr-uHd8h8o | publisher=Hard is Easy | access-date=16 August 2025}}</ref> If the figure 8 is not dressed and tightened properly before loading it, it tends to malform substantially after taking a fall. Malformation leads to a knot state in which the figure 8 is hard and sometimes even almost impossible to untie. Rope parameters (diameter, stiffness) also play a role. Last very important parameter discovered was if the load strand goes on the top of the knot, or in the middle of it. | ||
{{#invoke:FlexGallery| | {{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery_with_alt|200px | ||
|File: fig8_tighten.png | |File: fig8_tighten.png | ||
|By properly pre-tightening the knot before loading, you minimize the chance of getting it stuck | |By properly pre-tightening the knot before loading, you minimize the chance of getting it stuck | ||
|hand on a figure eight knot, arrows pointing in direction the rope leaves the knot | |||
|File: fig8_goodstrand.png | |File: fig8_goodstrand.png | ||
|Allegedly slightly stronger variant. It is easier to untie after a fall | |Allegedly slightly stronger variant. It is easier to untie after a fall | ||
|figure eight with one strand highlighted | |||
|File: fig8_uglystrand.png | |File: fig8_uglystrand.png | ||
|This variant is more prone to get stuck after big lead falls | |This variant is more prone to get stuck after big lead falls | ||
|figure eight with other strand highlighted, warning symbol | |||
}} | }} | ||
== Rolling == | == Rolling == | ||
[[File:fig8_roller.png|200px|thumb|left|When the ropes coming from the figure 8 are pulled in the opposite directions, the knot might capsize and roll over itself]] | [[File:fig8_roller.png|200px|thumb|left|When the ropes coming from the figure 8 are pulled in the opposite directions, the knot might capsize and roll over itself|alt=figure eight bent with a warning symbol and arrows illustrating capsizing direction]] | ||
The Figure 8 bend knot can capsize and roll over itself already around 3 kN of force (then it snaps). For that reason it is not an ideal knot for tying two ropes together.<ref name=Edelrid2023>{{cite web | url=https://edelrid.com/eu-en/knowledge/knowledge-base/knots-for-connecting-ropes-when-rappelling-comparison | title=Knots for connecting ropes when rappelling - a comparison | publisher=EDELRID GmbH & Co. KG | first1=Florian |last1=Hellberg | date=14 August 2023 | website=edelrid | access-date=16 August 2025}}</ref> There are speculations that the usage of Figure 8 bend knot during rapelling is the reason why the overhand-bend knot is known as an European Death knot in US.<ref>{{cite web | url=https://user.xmission.com/~tmoyer/testing/EDK.html | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20250729104327/https://user.xmission.com/~tmoyer/testing/EDK.html | archive-date=29 July 2025 | url-status=live | title=Pull Tests of the "Euro Death-Knot" | first1=Thomas | last1=Moyer | date=11 September 1999 | website=xmission.com | access-date=16 August 2025}}</ref> | The Figure 8 bend knot can capsize and roll over itself already around 3 kN of force (then it snaps). For that reason it is not an ideal knot for tying two ropes together.<ref name=Edelrid2023>{{cite web | url=https://edelrid.com/eu-en/knowledge/knowledge-base/knots-for-connecting-ropes-when-rappelling-comparison | title=Knots for connecting ropes when rappelling - a comparison | publisher=EDELRID GmbH & Co. KG | first1=Florian |last1=Hellberg | date=14 August 2023 | website=edelrid | access-date=16 August 2025}}</ref> There are speculations that the usage of Figure 8 bend knot during rapelling is the reason why the overhand-bend knot is known as an European Death knot in US.<ref>{{cite web | url=https://user.xmission.com/~tmoyer/testing/EDK.html | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20250729104327/https://user.xmission.com/~tmoyer/testing/EDK.html | archive-date=29 July 2025 | url-status=live | title=Pull Tests of the "Euro Death-Knot" | first1=Thomas | last1=Moyer | date=11 September 1999 | website=xmission.com | access-date=16 August 2025}}</ref> | ||