Garda hitch: Difference between revisions
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{{Infobox knot | {{Infobox knot | ||
| image = File: Garda.jpg | | image = File: Garda.jpg | ||
| image alt = garda hitch detail | |||
| pros = Fast, simple, just two carabiners needed, works well on a tested setup | | pros = Fast, simple, just two carabiners needed, works well on a tested setup | ||
| cons = Works only one-way, almost impossible to release when loaded, high friction under load,<ref name=friction_alpinesavvy>{{cite web | url=https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/progress-capture-efficiencies-of-various-devices | title=Progress capture - efficiencies of various devices | publisher=Alpinesavvy LLC | first1=John | last1=Godino | website=AlpineSavvy.com | access-date=27 September 2025 | url-status=live | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20211119020952/https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/progress-capture-efficiencies-of-various-devices | archive-date=19 November 2021}}</ref> can slip in specific cases, the system misbehaves with some carabiners<ref name=vdiff>{{cite web | url=https://www.vdiffclimbing.com/garda-hitch/ | title=The Garda Hitch (Alpine Clutch) | publisher=VDiff Climbing | first1=Matt | last1=Maddaloni |first2=Neil | last2=Chelton | website=VDiffClimbing.com | access-date=27 September 2025 | url-status=live | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20250512113500/https://www.vdiffclimbing.com/garda-hitch/ | archive-date=12 May 2025}}</ref><ref name=alpinesavvy>{{cite web | url=https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/pros-and-cons-of-the-garda-hitch | title=Pros and cons of the Garda Hitch | publisher=Alpinesavvy LLC | first1=John | last1=Godino | website=AlpineSavvy.com | access-date=27 September 2025 | url-status=live | archive-url=http://web.archive.org/web/20250927043118/https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/pros-and-cons-of-the-garda-hitch | archive-date=27 September 2025}}</ref> | | cons = Works only one-way, almost impossible to release when loaded, high friction under load,<ref name=friction_alpinesavvy>{{cite web | url=https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/progress-capture-efficiencies-of-various-devices | title=Progress capture - efficiencies of various devices | publisher=Alpinesavvy LLC | first1=John | last1=Godino | website=AlpineSavvy.com | access-date=27 September 2025 | url-status=live | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20211119020952/https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/progress-capture-efficiencies-of-various-devices | archive-date=19 November 2021}}</ref> can slip in specific cases, the system misbehaves with some carabiners<ref name=vdiff>{{cite web | url=https://www.vdiffclimbing.com/garda-hitch/ | title=The Garda Hitch (Alpine Clutch) | publisher=VDiff Climbing | first1=Matt | last1=Maddaloni |first2=Neil | last2=Chelton | website=VDiffClimbing.com | access-date=27 September 2025 | url-status=live | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20250512113500/https://www.vdiffclimbing.com/garda-hitch/ | archive-date=12 May 2025}}</ref><ref name=alpinesavvy>{{cite web | url=https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/pros-and-cons-of-the-garda-hitch | title=Pros and cons of the Garda Hitch | publisher=Alpinesavvy LLC | first1=John | last1=Godino | website=AlpineSavvy.com | access-date=27 September 2025 | url-status=live | archive-url=http://web.archive.org/web/20250927043118/https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/pros-and-cons-of-the-garda-hitch | archive-date=27 September 2025}}</ref> | ||
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== Tying == | == Tying == | ||
'''The two carabiners used for tying should be identical for the knot to work properly!''' D-shaped screw-gate carabiners are recommended. Tying a girth hitch on the top sling is recommended (not drawn). It is highly recommended to test the suitability of the carabiners and rope intended for Garda in-advance in a safe environment.<ref name=vdiff/> | '''The two carabiners used for tying should be identical for the knot to work properly!''' D-shaped screw-gate carabiners are recommended. Tying a girth hitch on the top sling in order to fix the carabiners position is recommended (not drawn). It is highly recommended to test the suitability of the carabiners and rope intended for Garda in-advance in a safe environment.<ref name=vdiff/> | ||
{{#invoke:FlexGallery| | {{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery_with_alt|120px | ||
|File: garda_step1.png | |File: garda_step1.png | ||
|Hang a rope onto two carabiners (1) | |Hang a rope onto two carabiners (1) | ||
|two opened screw-gate carabiners hanging on a sling with a rope being placed into them | |||
|File: garda_step2.png | |File: garda_step2.png | ||
|Wrap the rear strand around the front carabiner (2) | |Wrap the rear strand around the front carabiner (2) | ||
|two carabiners with a rope, front carabiner gate opened and arrow pointing to wrap the rope around it | |||
|File: garda_step3.png | |File: garda_step3.png | ||
|Take the left strand of the rope and move it above the loop (3), Garda should seat itself into the corners of the D-carabiners | |Take the left strand of the rope and move it above the loop (3), Garda should seat itself into the corners of the D-carabiners | ||
|two carabiners on a sling with a rope wrapped in them, arrow pointing to dress the rope in a way to create garda | |||
|File: garda_step4.png | |File: garda_step4.png | ||
|Secure the gates (4) | |Secure the gates (4) | ||
|garda hitch on two screw-gate carabiners which hangs on a sling, arrows pointing to close the gate | |||
|File: garda_step5.png | |File: garda_step5.png | ||
|Inspect the gates and the Garda hitch (5) | |Inspect the gates and the Garda hitch (5) | ||
|garda hitch on two locked screw gate carabiners hanging on a sling, eye icon | |||
}} | }} | ||