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| === Lowering from a pre-built sport anchor === | | === Lowering from a pre-built sport anchor === |
| Steps: | | Steps: |
| * Freeing the rope end without loosing the rope (temporary tie-in) | | * [[#Freeing the rope end|Freeing the rope end]] without loosing the rope (temporary tie-in) |
| * Threading the rope through the anchor and retying to its end | | * [[#Threading the rope through the anchor|Threading the rope through the anchor]] and retying to its end |
| * Removing the temporary tie-in, safety check, cleaning up | | * [[#Cleaning up | Removing the temporary tie-in, safety checks, cleaning up]] |
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| ==== Freeing the rope end without loosing the rope (temporary tie-in) ==== | | ==== Freeing the rope end ==== |
| {{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery_with_widths | | Freeing the rope end without loosing the rope by making a temporary tie-in. |
| |File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step1.png | | |
| | {{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery_with_widths_alt |
| | |File:prebuilt_lowering_step1.png |
| | |200px |
| | |Pull approximately two arm lengths (two meters) of slack (1) |
| | |Person hanging by a sling and rope on a sport anchor in a toprope setup, hand pulling slack through the toprope |
| | |File:prebuilt_lowering_step2.png |
| | |200px |
| | |Tie a [[Figure_eight#On_a_bight_(tie_in_in_a_middle)|Figure 8 on a bight]] (2) |
| | |Tying a figure eight on the slack at the anchor point |
| | |File:prebuilt_lowering_step3.png |
| |200px | | |200px |
| |Pull approximately two meters of slack (1), tie a [[Figure_eight#On_a_bight_(tie_in_in_a_middle)|Figure 8 on a bight]] on it and clip it to your harness belay loop | | |Clip it to your harness by a safebiner (3) |
| |File:prebuilt_lowering_quick_step2.png | | |Clipping the figure eight on a slack to the harness by a triple action carabiners |
| | |File:prebuilt_lowering_step4.png |
| |200px | | |200px |
| |Completely untie the Figure 8 which is directly at your harness (2) | | |Inspect that both the belay loop and the Figure 8 you tied are clipped into the safebiner and that the Figure 8 properly is tied (4) |
| }}
| | |Eye inspecting proper binding into the rope by a safebiner with Figure 8 |
| Not clear? Go to the [[#Lowering from a pre-built sport anchor - detailed description|detailed description]].
| | |File:prebuilt_lowering_step5.png |
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| ==== Threading the rope through the anchor and retying to its end ====
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| {{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery_with_widths
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| |File:prebuilt_lowering_quick_step3.png | |
| |200px | | |200px |
| |Pull the loose rope strand through the rappel ring of the anchor (3) and attach it back to your harness by [[Figure_eight#Follow-through_(tie-in_on_the_rope_end)|tying in by a Figure 8]] | | |Completely untie the Figure 8 on the end of the rope (5) |
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| | |Arrow pointing to untie the original tie-in point at the end of the rope |
| Not clear? Go to the [[#Lowering from a pre-built sport anchor - detailed description|detailed description]].
| | |File:prebuilt_lowering_step6.png |
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| ==== Removing the temporary tie-in, safety checks, cleaning up ====
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| {{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery_with_widths
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| |File:prebuilt_lowering_quick_step4.png | |
| |200px | | |200px |
| |Remove the carabiner at your harness (4,5), untie the Figure 8 on a bight (6), remove the toprope carabiners (7) and ask your belayer for a block while lifting yourself slightly towards the anchor (8) | | |You have freed the rope end while still being safely tied in |
| |File:prebuilt_lowering_quick_step9.png
| | |Person on the anchor tied in with a Figure 8 on a carabiner having a free slack at the end of the rope |
| |160px
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| |Before committing to the system, check that you really can hang in the rope (your personal anchor should be loose and the rope tight) and visually inspect both the tie in and the threading through the rappel ring (9)
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| |File:prebuilt_lowering_quick_step10.png
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| |160px
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| |After you inspected and tested that the setup is safe, you can remove the rest of the gear from the anchor (10)
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| |File:prebuilt_lowering_quick_step11.png
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| |160px
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| |And you are safe to get lowered (11)
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| }} | | }} |
| Not clear? Go to the [[#Lowering from a pre-built sport anchor - detailed description|detailed description]].
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| === Lowering from a pre-built sport anchor - quick method === | | ==== Threading the rope through the anchor ==== |
| This method can be used if the anchor is equipped by a rappel ring, or if the bolts or maillons are big enough. This method have two variations - either you get lowered on a Figure 8 clipped through the carabiner as depicted below,<ref>{{cite web | url=https://www.horosvaz.cz/res/archive/310/052449.pdf | title=Zrušení vratného bodu prvolezcem s následným spuštěním | publisher=Český horolezecký svaz | author1=Methodická komise ČHS | website=horosvaz.cz | date=December 23, 2019 | access-date=1 November 2025}}</ref> or you re-tie to the end of the rope in similar fashion as described in the chapter above. If you decide to leave a long slack, be mindful of its placement. Either wrap it around the rope just in front of the Figure 8, or put it over one shoulder, or clip it to your harness. Having a slack around your neck leads to a risk of a potentially fatal injury.<ref>Fatal injury of a mountain rescue member due to a rope around the neck/shoulders: {{cite web | url=https://www.horydoly.cz/tragedie/na-zabim-koni-zahynul-slovensky-horolezec.html | title=Na Žabím koni zahynul slovenský horolezec (Slovakian climber died on Žabí kůň) | publisher=UpDown Media, s.r.o. | first1=Jakub | last1=Turek | website=Horydoly.cz | date=30 October 2019 | access-date=1 November 2025 | url-status=live | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20221201164749/https://www.horydoly.cz/tragedie/na-zabim-koni-zahynul-slovensky-horolezec.html | archive-date=1 December 2022}}</ref>
| | Threading the rope through the anchor rappel ring and retying to its end. |
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| Steps:
| | {{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery_with_widths_alt |
| * Pulling a bite of the rope through the anchor, and tying into it
| | |File:prebuilt_lowering_step7.png |
| * Safety check, freeing the rope end, cleaning-up
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| ==== Pulling a bite of the rope through the anchor, and tying into it ====
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| {{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery_with_widths | |
| |File: prebuilt_lowering_doublestrand_step1.png | |
| |200px | | |200px |
| |Grab a bight of the rope and pull approximately two meters of slack through the rappel ring (1) | | |Pull the loose end of the rope through the rappel ring (6) |
| |File: prebuilt_lowering_doublestrand_step2.png | | |Arrow suggesting a person on the anchor to pull the slack through the anchor rappel ring |
| | |File:prebuilt_lowering_step8.png |
| |200px | | |200px |
| |Tie a [[Figure_eight#On_a_bight_(tie_in_in_a_middle)|Figure 8 on a bight]] on it (2) | | |And tie in it by a [[Figure_eight#Follow-through_(tie-in_on_the_rope_end)|Figure 8]] (7) |
| |File: prebuilt_lowering_doublestrand_step3.png | | |Arrow suggesting to tie in onto the rope end by figure eight |
| | |File:prebuilt_lowering_step9.png |
| |200px | | |200px |
| |Clip the Figure 8 to your harness belay loop (3) | | |You will get lowered on this knot, so inspect that its properly tied and that the loop goes through both of the harness tie-in loops (8) |
| | |Eye inspection of the figure 8 knot made in the previous step |
| }} | | }} |
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| ==== Safety checks, freeing the rope end, cleaning-up ==== | | ==== Cleaning up ==== |
| {{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery_with_widths | | Removing the temporary tie-in, safety checks, cleaning up. |
| |File: prebuilt_lowering_doublestrand_step4.png
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| |200px
| | {{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery_with_widths_alt |
| |Inspect the tie-in (4)
| | |File:prebuilt_lowering_step10.png |
| |File: prebuilt_lowering_doublestrand_step5.png | |
| |200px | | |200px |
| |Completely untie the Figure 8 which is directly at your harness (5) | | |Detach the safebiner (9,10) and untie the Figure 8 on a bight (11), excessive slack will slide out itself (12) |
| |File: prebuilt_lowering_doublestrand_step6.png | | |Dismantling of the tie-in through the triple carabiner |
| | |File:prebuilt_lowering_step11.png |
| |200px | | |200px |
| |Remove the toprope carabiners (6) and pull the loose rope strand out of the rappel ring (7) | | |Remove the two carabiners intended for the toproping (13) |
| |File: prebuilt_lowering_doublestrand_step8.png | | |Removing of toprope carabiners from an anchor point |
| | |File:prebuilt_lowering_step12.png |
| |200px | | |200px |
| |To test the system, ask your belayer for a block (8) | | |Before removing your personal anchor, ask your belayer for a block (14) in order to test the setup |
| |File: prebuilt_lowering_doublestrand_step9.png | | |Person on the anchor being pulled towards the anchor by a belayer taking out slack |
| | |File:prebuilt_lowering_step13.png |
| |160px | | |160px |
| |Before committing to the system, check once more that you are truly hanging in the rope which is threaded through the rappel ring (9,10) | | |Inspect both the tie-in (15) and the threading of the rope through the anchor rappel ring (16) |
| |File: prebuilt_lowering_doublestrand_step11.png | | |Eye inspection of the threading of the rope and tie in |
| | |File:prebuilt_lowering_step14.png |
| |160px | | |160px |
| |After you inspected and tested that the setup is safe, you can remove the rest of the gear from the anchor (11,12) | | |Unscrew (17) and clean-up (18) the rest of your gear from the anchor |
| |File: prebuilt_lowering_doublestrand_step13.png | | |Climber on an anchor hanging on a rope tied through the rappel ring removing rest of his gear from the anchor |
| | |File:prebuilt_lowering_step15.png |
| |160px | | |160px |
| |And you are safe to get lowered (13) | | |And get lowered by a belayer (19) |
| | |Person descending from an anchor |
| }} | | }} |
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| | === Lowering from a pre-built sport anchor - quick method === |
| | See the separate page with the [[Lowering_from_a_pre-built_sport_anchor_-_quick_method|quick method description]]. |
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| === Lowering from bolts with maillons === | | === Lowering from bolts with maillons === |
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| {{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery | | {{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery |
| |200px | | |260px |
| |File: lowering_maillons_step1.png | | |File: lowering_maillons_step1.png |
| |Thread the rope through the maillons. Both maillons should be threaded in the same way - either in->out, or out->in | | |Thread the rope through the maillons. Both maillons should be threaded in the same way - either in->out, or out->in |
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| {{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery | | {{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery |
| |200px | | |260px |
| |File: lowering_bolts_step1.png | | |File: lowering_bolts_step1.png |
| |Thread the rope through the bolts in a way that it wont get easily tangled during lowering. | | |Thread the rope through the bolts in a way that it wont get easily tangled during lowering. |
| |File: lowering_bolts_step2.png | | |File: lowering_bolts_step2.png |
| |Once the bolts are threaded, you continue as in the [[#Lowering from a pre-built sport anchor|method with the rappel ring]] by [[Figure_eight#Follow-through_(tie-in_on_the_rope_end)|tying in by a Figure 8]], the rest of the steps is analogous | | |Once the bolts are threaded, you continue as in the [[#Lowering from a pre-built sport anchor|method with the rappel ring]] by [[Figure_eight#Follow-through_(tie-in_on_the_rope_end)|tying in by a Figure 8]], the rest of the steps is analogous |
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| === Step by step detailed descriptions ===
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| ==== Lowering from a pre-built sport anchor - detailed description ====
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| ===== Freeing the rope end without loosing the rope (temporary tie-in) =====
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| {{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery_with_widths
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| |File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step1.png
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| |200px
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| |Pull approximately two arm lengths (two meters) of slack (1)
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| |File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step2.png
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| |200px
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| |Tie a [[Figure_eight#On_a_bight_(tie_in_in_a_middle)|Figure 8 on a bight]] (2)
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| |File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step3.png
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| |200px
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| |Clip it to your harness belay loop by a carabiner (3) and screw its gate (4)
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| |File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step4.png
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| |200px
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| |Undo the Figure 8 by which you were originally tied-in (5)
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| |File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step5.png
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| |200px
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| |And completely untie it (6)
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| }}
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| ===== Threading the rope through the anchor and retying to its end =====
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| {{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery_with_widths
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| |File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step6.png
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| |200px
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| |Pull the loose end of the rope through the rappel ring (7)
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| |File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step7.png
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| |200px
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| |And tie in it by a [[Figure_eight#Follow-through_(tie-in_on_the_rope_end)|Figure 8]] (8)
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| |File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step8.png
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| |200px
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| |You will get lowered on this knot, so inspect that its properly tied and that the loop goes through both of the harness tie-in loops (9)
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| }}
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| ===== Removing the temporary tie-in, safety check, cleaning up =====
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| {{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery_with_widths
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| |File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step9.png
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| |200px
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| |Unscrew the carabiner (10), detach it from your haness (11) and untie the Figure 8 on a bight (12), excessive extra slack will slide out (13)
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| |File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step14.png
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| |200px
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| |Remove the two carabiners intended for the toproping (14)
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| |File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step15.png
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| |200px
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| |To test the setup, ask belayer for a block (15) before removing your personal anchor
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| |File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step16.png
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| |160px
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| |Inspect both the tie-in (16) and the threading of the rope through the anchor rappel ring (17)
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| |File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step18.png
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| |160px
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| |Unscrew (18) and clean-up (19) the rest of your gear from the anchor
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| |File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step20.png
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| |160px
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| |And get lowered (20) by a belayer
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| }} | | }} |
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| === References === | | === References === |