Climbopedia

Tuber (Tubular belay device): Difference between revisions

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== Belaying risks ==  
== Belaying risks ==  
=== General risks ===
Always hold/control the break strand at least with one hand and keep the break strand downwards unless giving or taking the slack. Keep your hand at least a few centimeters from the belay device to avoid pinching of the skin. Do not lift your hand too high (above the device) while giving the slack. One of the commonly seen bad habit is keeping the hand raised for a prolonged time during belaying.
{{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery_with_widths
|File:tuber_blocked.png
|120px
|Always hold the break strand downwards unless feeding/taking the rope
|File:tuber_feeding.png
|196px
|Feed or take the rope from the front of the device
|File:tuber_nohand.png
|120px
|Not holding the break strand can result in fatal injuries
|File:tuber_warn_closehand.png
|130px
|Holding the break hand too close to the tuber leads to a risk of pinching the skin of the break hand index finger.
|File:tuber_feeding_toohigh.png
|196px
|Do not lift the break hand unnecessary high during the break strand manipulation.
|File:tuber_static_high.png
|196px
|Do not leave the hand in the upper position if not taking or giving the slack.
}}


=== Anchor-belay risks ===
Unlike during belay at a ground level, during anchor belay, climber can get below the tuber level in case of a fall, which leads to additional risks.


{{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery_with_widths
|File:tuber_belaying_lead_anchor.png
|267px
|While belaying from the anchor, redirect the rope in a way that it points upwards even in a case of a fall.
|File:tuber_belaying_danger_noredirect.png
|200px
|If the rope is not redirected properly, tuber rotates into a non-breaking position during a fall, which easily results into a ground fall.
}}


== Belaying from the harness ==
== Belaying from the harness ==
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|Final resting state, repeat the steps if you need to give more slack
|Final resting state, repeat the steps if you need to give more slack
}}
}}
=== General risks ===
Always hold/control the break strand at least with one hand and keep the break strand downwards unless giving or taking the slack. Keep your hand at least a few centimeters from the belay device to avoid pinching of the skin. Do not lift your hand too high (above the device) while giving the slack. One of the commonly seen bad habit is keeping the hand raised for a prolonged time during belaying.
{{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery_with_widths
|File:tuber_blocked.png
|120px
|Always hold the break strand downwards unless feeding/taking the rope
|File:tuber_feeding.png
|196px
|Feed or take the rope from the front of the device
|File:tuber_nohand.png
|120px
|Not holding the break strand can result in fatal injuries
|File:tuber_warn_closehand.png
|130px
|Holding the break hand too close to the tuber leads to a risk of pinching the skin of the break hand index finger.
|File:tuber_feeding_toohigh.png
|196px
|Do not lift the break hand unnecessary high during the break strand manipulation.
|File:tuber_static_high.png
|196px
|Do not leave the hand in the upper position if not taking or giving the slack.
}}
== Belaying at the anchor ==  
== Belaying at the anchor ==  


=== Belaying second climber - tuber with guide mode ===
=== Belaying the second climber ===
{{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery
{{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery_with_widths
|File:tuber_belaying_second.png
|150px
|150px
|File:tuber_belaying_second.png
|Setup for belaying second climber with a guide-mode tuber
|Setup for belaying second climber with a guide-mode tuber
|File:tuber_belaying_second_feed.png
|File:tuber_belaying_second_feed.png
|150px
|Taking slack is done by simultaneously moving both hands
|Taking slack is done by simultaneously moving both hands
|File:tuber_belaying_second_noguide.png
|197px
|Alternatively, the same technique which is described below for belaying the lead climber can also be used for belaying the second climber with a tuber without a guide mode.
}}
}}


=== Belaying lead climber - tuber with guide mode ===
=== Belaying the lead climber ===
{{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery_with_widths
{{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery_with_widths
|File:tuber_belaying_lead_anchor.png
|File:tuber_belaying_lead_anchor.png
Line 108: Line 104:
}}
}}


=== Belaying second climber - tuber without guide mode ===
=== Belaying from harness at the anchor ===
{{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery_with_widths
{{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery_with_widths
|File:tuber_belaying_second_noguide.png
|File:Tuber_harness_on_stand.png
|245px
|155px
|The same technique which is used for belaying the lead climber can be also used for belaying of a second climber with a tuber without a guide mode.
|Redirection of the sharp end of the rope for belaying from harness at the anchor
}}
}}


=== Belaying from harness at the anchor ===
During belay from harness at the anchor point redirects the rope through the anchor till the first two pieces of the running protection are placed.
[[File:Tuber_harness_on_stand.png|155px|thumb|left|Redirection of the sharp end of the rope for belaying from harness at the anchor]]
 
=== Anchor-belay risks ===
Belaying at the anchor brings additional risks on top of the [[#General risks|general risks]]. Unlike during belay at a ground level, during anchor belay, climber can get below the tuber level during a fall. If the climber would fall before the first running protection is placed, the tuber would not block as both the break strand and the live strand would be pointed the same direction as illustrated below.


During belay from harness at the anchor point redirects the rope through the anchor till the first two pieces of the running protection are placed. Otherwise if the climber would fall, belayer would be pushed downwards and at the same time the tuber would not block as both the break strand and the live strand would be pointed the same direction.
{{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery_with_widths
|File:tuber_belaying_lead_anchor.png
|267px
|While belaying from the anchor, redirect the rope in a way that it points upwards even in a case of a fall.
|File:tuber_belaying_danger_noredirect.png
|200px
|If the rope is not redirected properly, tuber rotates into a non-breaking position during a fall, which easily results into a ground fall.
}}


== Abseiling ==
== Abseiling ==
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