Garda hitch: Difference between revisions

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| image = File: Garda.jpg

| pros = Fast, simple, just two carabiners needed, works well on a tested setup

| cons = Works only one-way, almost impossible to release when loaded, high friction under load, can slip in specific cases, the system misbehaves with some carabiners<ref name=vdiff>{{cite web | url=https://www.vdiffclimbing.com/garda-hitch/ | title=The Garda Hitch (Alpine Clutch) | publisher=VDiff Climbing | first1=Matt | last1=Maddaloni |first2=Neil | last2=Chelton | website=VDiffClimbing.com | access-date=27 September 2025 | url-status=live | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20250512113500/https://www.vdiffclimbing.com/garda-hitch/ | archive-date=12 May 2025}}</ref><ref name=alpinesavvy>{{cite web | url=https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/pros-and-cons-of-the-garda-hitch | title=Pros and cons of the Garda Hitch | publisher=Alpinesavvy LLC | first1=John | last1=Godino | website=AlpineSavvy.com | access-date=27 September 2025 | url-status=live | archive-url=http://web.archive.org/web/20250927043118/https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/pros-and-cons-of-the-garda-hitch | archive-date=27 September 2025}}</ref>

| cons = Works only one-way, almost impossible to release when loaded, high friction under load,<ref name=alpinesavvy_friction>{{cite web | url=https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/progress-capture-efficiencies-of-various-devices | title=Pros and cons of the Garda Hitch | publisher=Alpinesavvy LLC | first1=John | last1=Godino | website=AlpineSavvy.com | access-date=27 September 2025 | url-status=live | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20211119020952/https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/progress-capture-efficiencies-of-various-devices | archive-date=19 November 2021}}</ref> can slip in specific cases, the system misbehaves with some carabiners<ref name=vdiff>{{cite web | url=https://www.vdiffclimbing.com/garda-hitch/ | title=The Garda Hitch (Alpine Clutch) | publisher=VDiff Climbing | first1=Matt | last1=Maddaloni |first2=Neil | last2=Chelton | website=VDiffClimbing.com | access-date=27 September 2025 | url-status=live | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20250512113500/https://www.vdiffclimbing.com/garda-hitch/ | archive-date=12 May 2025}}</ref><ref name=alpinesavvy>{{cite web | url=https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/pros-and-cons-of-the-garda-hitch | title=Pros and cons of the Garda Hitch | publisher=Alpinesavvy LLC | first1=John | last1=Godino | website=AlpineSavvy.com | access-date=27 September 2025 | url-status=live | archive-url=http://web.archive.org/web/20250927043118/https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/pros-and-cons-of-the-garda-hitch | archive-date=27 September 2025}}</ref>

| uses = (self-)rescue techniques, material hauling

| category = Hitch

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}}

Garda hitch is one of the elementary hitches used among other applications in crevasse self-rescue. Although its simple and works reliably on tested setups, its application scope is limited by its unidirectional nature and high friction under load. In some very specific cases, it has possible [[#slippage|safety issues]], carabiner choice and testing prior to use is crucial for the systems reliability. In many applications, garda hitch can be replaced with a [[Tuber_(Tubular_belay_device)#Tuber_as_an_ascender | tuber with guide mode]].

Garda hitch is one of the elementary hitches used among other applications in crevasse self-rescue. Although its simple and works reliably on tested setups, its application scope is limited by its unidirectional nature and high friction under load.<ref name=alpinesavvy_friction/> In some very specific cases, it has possible [[#slippage|safety issues]], carabiner choice and testing prior to use is crucial for the systems reliability. In many applications, garda hitch can be replaced with a [[Tuber_(Tubular_belay_device)#Tuber_as_an_ascender | tuber with guide mode]].

== Tying ==

@@ Line 4: / Line 4: @@
 | image = File: Garda.jpg
 | pros = Fast, simple, just two carabiners needed, works well on a tested setup
-| cons = Works only one-way, almost impossible to release when loaded, high friction under load, can slip in specific cases, the system misbehaves with some carabiners<ref name=vdiff>{{cite web | url=https://www.vdiffclimbing.com/garda-hitch/ | title=The Garda Hitch (Alpine Clutch) | publisher=VDiff Climbing | first1=Matt | last1=Maddaloni |first2=Neil | last2=Chelton | website=VDiffClimbing.com |  access-date=27 September 2025 | url-status=live | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20250512113500/https://www.vdiffclimbing.com/garda-hitch/ | archive-date=12 May 2025}}</ref><ref name=alpinesavvy>{{cite web | url=https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/pros-and-cons-of-the-garda-hitch | title=Pros and cons of the Garda Hitch | publisher=Alpinesavvy LLC  | first1=John | last1=Godino | website=AlpineSavvy.com | access-date=27 September 2025 | url-status=live | archive-url=http://web.archive.org/web/20250927043118/https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/pros-and-cons-of-the-garda-hitch | archive-date=27 September 2025}}</ref>
+| cons = Works only one-way, almost impossible to release when loaded, high friction under load,<ref name=alpinesavvy_friction>{{cite web | url=https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/progress-capture-efficiencies-of-various-devices | title=Pros and cons of the Garda Hitch | publisher=Alpinesavvy LLC  | first1=John | last1=Godino | website=AlpineSavvy.com | access-date=27 September 2025 | url-status=live | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20211119020952/https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/progress-capture-efficiencies-of-various-devices | archive-date=19 November 2021}}</ref> can slip in specific cases, the system misbehaves with some carabiners<ref name=vdiff>{{cite web | url=https://www.vdiffclimbing.com/garda-hitch/ | title=The Garda Hitch (Alpine Clutch) | publisher=VDiff Climbing | first1=Matt | last1=Maddaloni |first2=Neil | last2=Chelton | website=VDiffClimbing.com |  access-date=27 September 2025 | url-status=live | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20250512113500/https://www.vdiffclimbing.com/garda-hitch/ | archive-date=12 May 2025}}</ref><ref name=alpinesavvy>{{cite web | url=https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/pros-and-cons-of-the-garda-hitch | title=Pros and cons of the Garda Hitch | publisher=Alpinesavvy LLC  | first1=John | last1=Godino | website=AlpineSavvy.com | access-date=27 September 2025 | url-status=live | archive-url=http://web.archive.org/web/20250927043118/https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/pros-and-cons-of-the-garda-hitch | archive-date=27 September 2025}}</ref>
 | uses = (self-)rescue techniques, material hauling
 | category = Hitch
@@ Line 10: / Line 10: @@
 }}
-Garda hitch is one of the elementary hitches used among other applications in crevasse self-rescue. Although its simple and works reliably on tested setups, its application scope is limited by its unidirectional nature and high friction under load. In some very specific cases, it has possible [[#slippage|safety issues]], carabiner choice and testing prior to use is crucial for the systems reliability. In many applications, garda hitch can be replaced with a [[Tuber_(Tubular_belay_device)#Tuber_as_an_ascender | tuber with guide mode]].
+Garda hitch is one of the elementary hitches used among other applications in crevasse self-rescue. Although its simple and works reliably on tested setups, its application scope is limited by its unidirectional nature and high friction under load.<ref name=alpinesavvy_friction/> In some very specific cases, it has possible [[#slippage|safety issues]], carabiner choice and testing prior to use is crucial for the systems reliability. In many applications, garda hitch can be replaced with a [[Tuber_(Tubular_belay_device)#Tuber_as_an_ascender | tuber with guide mode]].
 == Tying ==