Garda hitch: Difference between revisions

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'''Garda hitch''' is one of the elementary hitches. It is used for example in ~~crevasse~~ self-rescue. Although it is simple to tie and works reliably ~~in case of~~ optimized setups, its application scope is limited ~~because of~~ its unidirectional nature and high friction under load.<ref name=friction_alpinesavvy/> In very specific cases, it has safety issues ([[#slippage|slippage]]). For the Garda hitch reliability, carabiner choice and testing prior to use is crucial. In many applications, Garda hitch can be replaced by a [[Tuber_(Tubular_belay_device)#Tuber_as_an_ascender | tuber with guide mode]].

'''Garda hitch''' is one of the elementary hitches. It is used for example in self-rescue from a crevasse. Although it is simple to tie and works reliably with optimized setups, its application scope is limited by its unidirectional nature and high friction under load.<ref name=friction_alpinesavvy/> In very specific cases, it has safety issues ([[#slippage|slippage]]). For the Garda hitch reliability, carabiner choice and testing prior to use is crucial. In many applications, Garda hitch can be replaced by a [[Tuber_(Tubular_belay_device)#Tuber_as_an_ascender | tuber with guide mode]].

== Tying ==

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== Carabiner choice ==

D-Shaped carabiners are recommended over other shapes.<ref name=vdiff/><ref name=hownot2 /> Screw-gate carabiners are safe to use as long as the locks are not too bulky ~~for~~ the carabiners to snap properly. Movement of the rope in the system might unclip carabiners without gate locks.<ref name=alpinesavvy/>

D-Shaped carabiners are recommended over other shapes.<ref name=vdiff/><ref name=hownot2 /> Screw-gate carabiners are safe to use as long as the locks are not too bulky. Otherwise the carabiners might not snap properly. Movement of the rope in the system might unclip carabiners without gate locks.<ref name=alpinesavvy/>

== Slippage ==

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-'''Garda hitch''' is one of the elementary hitches. It is used for example in crevasse self-rescue. Although it is simple to tie and works reliably in case of optimized setups, its application scope is limited because of its unidirectional nature and high friction under load.<ref name=friction_alpinesavvy/> In very specific cases, it has safety issues ([[#slippage|slippage]]). For the Garda hitch reliability,  carabiner choice and testing prior to use is crucial. In many applications, Garda hitch can be replaced by a [[Tuber_(Tubular_belay_device)#Tuber_as_an_ascender | tuber with guide mode]].
+'''Garda hitch''' is one of the elementary hitches. It is used for example in self-rescue from a crevasse. Although it is simple to tie and works reliably with optimized setups, its application scope is limited by its unidirectional nature and high friction under load.<ref name=friction_alpinesavvy/> In very specific cases, it has safety issues ([[#slippage|slippage]]). For the Garda hitch reliability,  carabiner choice and testing prior to use is crucial. In many applications, Garda hitch can be replaced by a [[Tuber_(Tubular_belay_device)#Tuber_as_an_ascender | tuber with guide mode]].
 == Tying ==
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 == Carabiner choice ==
-D-Shaped carabiners are recommended over other shapes.<ref name=vdiff/><ref name=hownot2 /> Screw-gate carabiners are safe to use as long as the locks are not too bulky for the carabiners to snap properly. Movement of the rope in the system might unclip carabiners without gate locks.<ref name=alpinesavvy/>
+D-Shaped carabiners are recommended over other shapes.<ref name=vdiff/><ref name=hownot2 /> Screw-gate carabiners are safe to use as long as the locks are not too bulky. Otherwise the carabiners might not snap properly. Movement of the rope in the system might unclip carabiners without gate locks.<ref name=alpinesavvy/>
 == Slippage ==