Garda hitch: Difference between revisions
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| strength = rope: slipping ~35% (specific cases), breaking ~45-60%<ref name=hownot2>{{Cite AV media | first1=Ryan | last1=Jenks | date=4 September 2024 | title=Could you survive with just 2 carabiners? | url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PG7W83zHowQ | publisher=HowNOT2 | access-date=16 August 2025}}</ref> | | strength = rope: slipping ~35% (specific cases), breaking ~45-60%<ref name=hownot2>{{Cite AV media | first1=Ryan | last1=Jenks | date=4 September 2024 | title=Could you survive with just 2 carabiners? | url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PG7W83zHowQ | publisher=HowNOT2 | access-date=16 August 2025}}</ref> | ||
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'''Garda hitch''' is one of the elementary hitches. It is used for example in self-rescue from a crevasse. Although it is simple to tie and works reliably with optimized setups, its application scope is limited by its unidirectional nature and high friction under load.<ref name=friction_alpinesavvy/> In very specific cases, it has safety issues ([[#slippage|slippage]]). For the Garda hitch reliability, carabiner choice and testing prior to use is crucial. In many applications, Garda hitch can be replaced by a [[Tuber_(Tubular_belay_device)#Tuber_as_an_ascender | tuber with guide mode]]. | '''Garda hitch''' is one of the elementary hitches. It is used for example in self-rescue from a crevasse. Although it is simple to tie and works reliably with optimized setups, its application scope is limited by its unidirectional nature and high friction under load.<ref name=friction_alpinesavvy/> In very specific cases, it has safety issues ([[#slippage|slippage]]). For the Garda hitch reliability, carabiner choice and testing prior to use is crucial. In many applications, Garda hitch can be replaced by a [[Tuber_(Tubular_belay_device)#Tuber_as_an_ascender | tuber with guide mode]]. | ||