Carabiner: Difference between revisions

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Do not place carabiners in a way that they would get loaded over a rock edge. HowNOT2 recorded a measurement where he cracked a sideway-loaded carabiner below 4 kN.<ref name=hownot2>{{Cite AV media | first1=Ryan | last1=Jenks | date=7 June 2021 | title=Carabiners Loaded Sideways!?!? | url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=buNotkWWLHg | publisher=HowNOT2 | access-date=1 September 2025}}</ref> That is roughly half of the force a carabiner in the last protection piece experiences during catch of a big lead fall. Therefore there is a very realistic chance the carabiner loaded over an edge might fail during a lead-climb fall. If you want to secure yourself to an inconviently placed bolt or a piton, extend it by a sling or a rope as illustrated below.<ref>{{cite web | url=https://horolezeckametodika.cz/karabiny-v-jisteni | title=Karabiny v Jištění (Carabiners in protection) | publisher=HOROLEZECKÁ METODIKA | first1=Tomáš | last1=Kublák | website=Horolezeckametodika.cz | access-date=1 September 2025}}</ref>

Do not place carabiners in a way that they would get loaded over a rock edge. HowNOT2 recorded a measurement where he cracked a sideway-loaded carabiner below 4 kN.<ref name=hownot2>{{Cite AV media | first1=Ryan | last1=Jenks | date=7 June 2021 | title=Carabiners Loaded Sideways!?!? | url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=buNotkWWLHg | publisher=HowNOT2 | access-date=1 September 2025}}</ref> That is roughly half of the force a carabiner placed in the last protection piece experiences during a catch of a big lead fall. Therefore there is a very realistic chance the carabiner loaded over an edge might fail during a lead-climb fall. If you want to secure yourself to an inconviently placed bolt or a piton, extend it by a sling or a rope as illustrated below.<ref>{{cite web | url=https://horolezeckametodika.cz/karabiny-v-jisteni | title=Karabiny v Jištění (Carabiners in protection) | publisher=HOROLEZECKÁ METODIKA | first1=Tomáš | last1=Kublák | website=Horolezeckametodika.cz | access-date=1 September 2025}}</ref>

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Revision as of 09:19, 28 September 2025 view source Karl (talk \| contribs) Bureaucrats, Interface administrators, Administrators, writer 1,353 edits minor clarity refinement ← Older edit		Revision as of 09:20, 28 September 2025 view source Karl (talk \| contribs) Bureaucrats, Interface administrators, Administrators, writer 1,353 edits m →Safe-use recommendations: - minor stylistics and grammar adjustment Newer edit →
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	Do not place carabiners in a way that they would get loaded over a rock edge. HowNOT2 recorded a measurement where he cracked a sideway-loaded carabiner below 4 kN.<ref name=hownot2>{{Cite AV media \| first1=Ryan \| last1=Jenks \| date=7 June 2021 \| title=Carabiners Loaded Sideways!?!? \| url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=buNotkWWLHg \| publisher=HowNOT2 \| access-date=1 September 2025}}</ref> That is roughly half of the force a carabiner in the last protection piece experiences during catch of a big lead fall. Therefore there is a very realistic chance the carabiner loaded over an edge might fail during a lead-climb fall. If you want to secure yourself to an inconviently placed bolt or a piton, extend it by a sling or a rope as illustrated below.<ref>{{cite web \| url=https://horolezeckametodika.cz/karabiny-v-jisteni \| title=Karabiny v Jištění (Carabiners in protection) \| publisher=HOROLEZECKÁ METODIKA \| first1=Tomáš \| last1=Kublák \| website=Horolezeckametodika.cz \| access-date=1 September 2025}}</ref>		Do not place carabiners in a way that they would get loaded over a rock edge. HowNOT2 recorded a measurement where he cracked a sideway-loaded carabiner below 4 kN.<ref name=hownot2>{{Cite AV media \| first1=Ryan \| last1=Jenks \| date=7 June 2021 \| title=Carabiners Loaded Sideways!?!? \| url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=buNotkWWLHg \| publisher=HowNOT2 \| access-date=1 September 2025}}</ref> That is roughly half of the force a carabiner placed in the last protection piece experiences during a catch of a big lead fall. Therefore there is a very realistic chance the carabiner loaded over an edge might fail during a lead-climb fall. If you want to secure yourself to an inconviently placed bolt or a piton, extend it by a sling or a rope as illustrated below.<ref>{{cite web \| url=https://horolezeckametodika.cz/karabiny-v-jisteni \| title=Karabiny v Jištění (Carabiners in protection) \| publisher=HOROLEZECKÁ METODIKA \| first1=Tomáš \| last1=Kublák \| website=Horolezeckametodika.cz \| access-date=1 September 2025}}</ref>

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