Rope support with tuber: Difference between revisions

Line 29:

|File:rope_support_atc_step7alt.png

|Alternatively, this is an illustration of the finished setup without the redirecting quickdraw and with unlocked carabiner for Prusik

}}

== Using the rope support ==

As the ATC adds a lot of friction to this system, the pulley gives only 2:1 advantage (only the belay strand part of the rope which is behind the ATC is active during pulling), but 3:1 amount of slack must be taken (as the rope must be still pulled through the ATC). Due to a friction on the carabiner, real world testing done by John Gordino (Alpinesavvy) shown that in reality, it provides only roughly 1.5:1 advantage.<ref name=friction_alpinesavvy>{{cite web | url=https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/progress-capture-efficiencies-of-various-devices | title=Progress capture - efficiencies of various devices | publisher=Alpinesavvy LLC | first1=John | last1=Godino | website=AlpineSavvy.com | access-date=27 September 2025 | url-status=live | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20211119020952/https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/progress-capture-efficiencies-of-various-devices | archive-date=19 November 2021}}</ref> Than means that for 75 kg climber, 50 kg of weight has still to be pulled up.

{{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery

|135px

|File:rope_support_atc_pull_step1.png

|Pull the belay rope up

|File:rope_support_atc_pull_step2.png

|After the ATC gets unblocked, additional slack is pulled out of the system

|File:rope_support_atc_pull_step3.png

|Once the pulley is in its top position, grab the belay strand above the carabiner

|File:rope_support_atc_pull_step4.png

|And reset the pulley by sliding the prusik down on the live strand of the rope

}}

@@ Line 29: / Line 29: @@
 |File:rope_support_atc_step7alt.png
 |Alternatively, this is an illustration of the finished setup without the redirecting quickdraw and with unlocked carabiner for Prusik
+}}
+== Using the rope support ==
+As the ATC adds a lot of friction to this system, the pulley gives only 2:1 advantage (only the belay strand part of the rope which is behind the ATC is active during pulling), but 3:1 amount of slack must be taken (as the rope must be still pulled through the ATC). Due to a friction on the carabiner, real world testing done by John Gordino (Alpinesavvy) shown that in reality, it provides only roughly 1.5:1 advantage.<ref name=friction_alpinesavvy>{{cite web | url=https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/progress-capture-efficiencies-of-various-devices | title=Progress capture - efficiencies of various devices | publisher=Alpinesavvy LLC  | first1=John | last1=Godino | website=AlpineSavvy.com | access-date=27 September 2025 | url-status=live | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20211119020952/https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/progress-capture-efficiencies-of-various-devices | archive-date=19 November 2021}}</ref> Than means that for 75 kg climber, 50 kg of weight has still to be pulled up.
+{{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery
+|135px
+|File:rope_support_atc_pull_step1.png
+|Pull the belay rope up
+|File:rope_support_atc_pull_step2.png
+|After the ATC gets unblocked, additional slack is pulled out of the system
+|File:rope_support_atc_pull_step3.png
+|Once the pulley is in its top position, grab the belay strand above the carabiner
+|File:rope_support_atc_pull_step4.png
+|And reset the pulley by sliding the prusik down on the live strand of the rope
 }}