Rope support with tuber: Difference between revisions

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== Using the rope support ==

As the ATC adds a lot of friction to this system, the pulley gives only 2:1 advantage (only the belay strand part of the rope which is behind the ATC is active during pulling), but 3:1 amount of slack must be taken (as the rope must be still pulled through the ATC). Due to a friction on the carabiner, real world testing done by John Gordino (Alpinesavvy) shown that in reality, it provides only roughly 1.5:1 advantage.<ref name=friction_alpinesavvy>{{cite web | url=https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/progress-capture-efficiencies-of-various-devices | title=Progress capture - efficiencies of various devices | publisher=Alpinesavvy LLC | first1=John | last1=Godino | website=AlpineSavvy.com | access-date=27 September 2025 | url-status=live | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20211119020952/https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/progress-capture-efficiencies-of-various-devices | archive-date=19 November 2021}}</ref> ~~Than~~ means that for 75 kg climber, 50 kg of weight has still to be pulled up.

As the ATC adds a lot of friction to this system, the pulley gives only 2:1 advantage (only the belay strand part of the rope which is behind the ATC is active during pulling), but 3:1 amount of slack must be taken (as the rope must be still pulled through the ATC). Due to a friction on the carabiner, real world testing done by John Gordino (Alpinesavvy) shown that in reality, it provides only roughly 1.5:1 advantage.<ref name=friction_alpinesavvy>{{cite web | url=https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/progress-capture-efficiencies-of-various-devices | title=Progress capture - efficiencies of various devices | publisher=Alpinesavvy LLC | first1=John | last1=Godino | website=AlpineSavvy.com | access-date=27 September 2025 | url-status=live | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20211119020952/https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/progress-capture-efficiencies-of-various-devices | archive-date=19 November 2021}}</ref> That means that for a 75 kg climber, 50 kg of weight has still to be pulled up.

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 == Using the rope support ==
-As the ATC adds a lot of friction to this system, the pulley gives only 2:1 advantage (only the belay strand part of the rope which is behind the ATC is active during pulling), but 3:1 amount of slack must be taken (as the rope must be still pulled through the ATC). Due to a friction on the carabiner, real world testing done by John Gordino (Alpinesavvy) shown that in reality, it provides only roughly 1.5:1 advantage.<ref name=friction_alpinesavvy>{{cite web | url=https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/progress-capture-efficiencies-of-various-devices | title=Progress capture - efficiencies of various devices | publisher=Alpinesavvy LLC  | first1=John | last1=Godino | website=AlpineSavvy.com | access-date=27 September 2025 | url-status=live | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20211119020952/https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/progress-capture-efficiencies-of-various-devices | archive-date=19 November 2021}}</ref> Than means that for 75 kg climber, 50 kg of weight has still to be pulled up.
+As the ATC adds a lot of friction to this system, the pulley gives only 2:1 advantage (only the belay strand part of the rope which is behind the ATC is active during pulling), but 3:1 amount of slack must be taken (as the rope must be still pulled through the ATC). Due to a friction on the carabiner, real world testing done by John Gordino (Alpinesavvy) shown that in reality, it provides only roughly 1.5:1 advantage.<ref name=friction_alpinesavvy>{{cite web | url=https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/progress-capture-efficiencies-of-various-devices | title=Progress capture - efficiencies of various devices | publisher=Alpinesavvy LLC  | first1=John | last1=Godino | website=AlpineSavvy.com | access-date=27 September 2025 | url-status=live | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20211119020952/https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/progress-capture-efficiencies-of-various-devices | archive-date=19 November 2021}}</ref> That means that for a 75 kg climber, 50 kg of weight has still to be pulled up.
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