Lowering a lead climber from an anchor: Difference between revisions

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==== step-by-step description ====

{{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery_with_widths

|File:prebuilt_lowering_brief_step1.png

|180px

|Pull approximately two meters of slack (1), tie a [[Figure_eight#On_a_bight_(tie_in_in_a_middle)|Figure 8 on a bight]] on it and clip it to your harness belay loop

|File:prebuilt_lowering_brief_step2.png

|90px

|Untie the Figure 8 which is directly at your harness

|File:prebuilt_lowering_brief_step3.png

|180px

|Pull the loose rope strand through the rappel ring of the anchor and attach it back to your harness by [[Figure_eight#Follow-through_(tie-in_on_the_rope_end)|tying in by a Figure 8]]

|File:prebuilt_lowering_brief_step4.png

|180px

|Untie the Figure 8 on a bight and remove the carabiner at your harness and the toprope carabiners

|File:prebuilt_lowering_brief_step5.png

|180px

|Before committing to the system, visually inspect both the tie in and threading through the rappel ring and test it by asking your belayer to block

|File:prebuilt_lowering_brief_step6.png

|180px

|After you inspected and tested that the setup is safe you can remove the rest of the gear from the anchor

|File:prebuilt_lowering_brief_step7.png

|180px

|And you can get safely lowered

}}

=== Lowering from a pre-built sport anchor - quick method ===

TODO

=== Lowering from bolts with maillons ===

TODO

=== Lowering directly from bolts or fixed ring ===

This method is forbidden by climbing associations in some countries and places. The ban is due to an increased bolts and fixed rings abrasion which leads to unnecessary and undesired shortening of the material replacement cycles. For example at traditional sandstone routes which are (due to a tradition) almost exclusively equipped with fixed rings, it would mean additional drilling into a rock which is often protected by a law due to nature preservation for further generations. In addition, this method cannot be used for lowering directly from hanger plates as the friction over the plates edges would severely damage the rope.

=== Step by step detailed descriptions ===

==== Lowering from a pre-built sport anchor - detailed description ====

{{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery_with_widths

|File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step1.png

|180px

|Pull ~~aproximmately~~ two meters of slack (1)

|Pull approximately two meters of slack (1)

|File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step2.png

|144px

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Line 88:

}}

=== ~~Lowering from a pre-built sport anchor - quick method~~ ===

=== References ===

~~TODO~~

~~=== Lowering from bolts with maillons ===~~

~~TODO~~

~~=== Lowering directly from bolts or fixed ring ===~~

This method is forbidden by climbing associations in some countries and places. The ban is due to an increased bolts and fixed rings abrasion which leads to unnecessary and undesired shortening of the material replacement cycles. For example at traditional sandstone routes which are (due to a tradition) almost exclusively equipped with fixed rings, it would mean additional drilling into a rock which is often protected by a law due to nature preservation for further generations. In addition, this method cannot be used for lowering directly from hanger plates as the friction over the plates edges would severely damage the rope.

@@ Line 4: / Line 4: @@
 ==== step-by-step description ====
+{{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery_with_widths
+|File:prebuilt_lowering_brief_step1.png
+|180px
+|Pull approximately two meters of slack (1), tie a [[Figure_eight#On_a_bight_(tie_in_in_a_middle)|Figure 8 on a bight]] on it and clip it to your harness belay loop
+|File:prebuilt_lowering_brief_step2.png
+|90px
+|Untie the Figure 8 which is directly at your harness
+|File:prebuilt_lowering_brief_step3.png
+|180px
+|Pull the loose rope strand through the rappel ring of the anchor and attach it back to your harness by [[Figure_eight#Follow-through_(tie-in_on_the_rope_end)|tying in by a Figure 8]]
+|File:prebuilt_lowering_brief_step4.png
+|180px
+|Untie the Figure 8 on a bight and remove the carabiner at your harness and the toprope carabiners
+|File:prebuilt_lowering_brief_step5.png
+|180px
+|Before committing to the system, visually inspect both the tie in and threading through the rappel ring and test it by asking  your belayer to block
+|File:prebuilt_lowering_brief_step6.png
+|180px
+|After you inspected and tested that the setup is safe you can remove the rest of the gear from the anchor
+|File:prebuilt_lowering_brief_step7.png
+|180px
+|And you can get safely lowered
+}}
+=== Lowering from a pre-built sport anchor - quick method ===
+TODO
+=== Lowering from bolts with maillons ===
+TODO
+=== Lowering directly from bolts or fixed ring ===
+This method is forbidden by climbing associations in some countries and places. The ban is due to an increased bolts and fixed rings abrasion which leads to unnecessary and undesired shortening of the material replacement cycles. For example at traditional sandstone routes which are (due to a tradition) almost exclusively equipped with fixed rings, it would mean additional drilling into a rock which is often protected by a law due to nature preservation for further generations. In addition, this method cannot be used for lowering directly from hanger plates as the friction over the plates edges would severely damage the rope.
+=== Step by step detailed descriptions ===
+==== Lowering from a pre-built sport anchor - detailed description ====
 {{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery_with_widths
 |File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step1.png
 |180px
-|Pull aproximmately two meters of slack (1)
+|Pull approximately two meters of slack (1)
 |File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step2.png
 |144px
@@ Line 52: / Line 88: @@
 }}
-=== Lowering from a pre-built sport anchor - quick method ===
+=== References ===
-TODO
-=== Lowering from bolts with maillons ===
-TODO
-=== Lowering directly from bolts or fixed ring ===
-This method is forbidden by climbing associations in some countries and places. The ban is due to an increased bolts and fixed rings abrasion which leads to unnecessary and undesired shortening of the material replacement cycles. For example at traditional sandstone routes which are (due to a tradition) almost exclusively equipped with fixed rings, it would mean additional drilling into a rock which is often protected by a law due to nature preservation for further generations. In addition, this method cannot be used for lowering directly from hanger plates as the friction over the plates edges would severely damage the rope.