|Pull approximately two arms lengths (two meters) of slack (1)
|File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step2.png
|File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step2.png
|144px
|200px
|Tie a [[Figure_eight#On_a_bight_(tie_in_in_a_middle)|Figure 8 on a bight]] (2)
|Tie a [[Figure_eight#On_a_bight_(tie_in_in_a_middle)|Figure 8 on a bight]] (2)
|File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step3.png
|File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step3.png
|180px
|200px
|Clip it to your harness belay loop by a carabiner (3) and screw its gate (4)
|Clip it to your harness belay loop by a carabiner (3) and screw its gate (4)
|File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step4.png
|File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step4.png
|90px
|200px
|Undo the Figure 8 by which you were originally tied-in (5)
|Undo the Figure 8 by which you were originally tied-in (5)
|File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step5.png
|File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step5.png
|144px
|200px
|And completely untie it (6)
|And completely untie it (6)
|File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step6.png
|File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step6.png
|180px
|200px
|Pull the loose end of the rope through the rappel ring (7)
|Pull the loose end of the rope through the rappel ring (7)
|File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step7.png
|File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step7.png
|180px
|200px
|Once the rope is through, you attach it back to yourself
|And tie in it by a [[Figure_eight#Follow-through_(tie-in_on_the_rope_end)|Figure 8]] (8)
|File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step8.png
|File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step8.png
|180px
|200px
|By [[Figure_eight#Follow-through_(tie-in_on_the_rope_end)|tying in by a Figure 8]] (8)
|You will get lowered on this knot, so inspect that its properly tied and that the loop goes through both of the harness tie-in loops (9)
|File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step9.png
|File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step9.png
|180px
|200px
|You will get lowered on this knot, so inspect that its properly tied and that the loop goes through both of the harness tie-in loops (9)
|Unscrew the carabiner (10), detach it from your haness (11) and untie the Figure 8 on a bight (12), excessive extra slack will slide out (13)
|File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step10.png
|180px
|Unscrew the carabiner (10), detach it from your haness (11) and untie the Figure 8 on a bight (12)
|File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step13.png
|180px
|Now remove the two carabiners intended for the toproping (13)
|File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step14.png
|File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step14.png
|180px
|200px
|To test the setup, ask belayer for a block (14) before removing your personal anchor
|Remove the two carabiners intended for the toproping (14)
|File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step15.png
|File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step15.png
|180px
|200px
|Inspect that both tie-in (15) and threading of the rope through the anchor rappel ring (16) are correct
|To test the setup, ask belayer for a block (15) before removing your personal anchor
|File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step17.png
|File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step16.png
|180px
|200px
|Unscrew (17) and clean-up (18) the rest of your gear from the anchor
|Inspect both the tie-in (16) and the threading of the rope through the anchor rappel ring (17)
|File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step19.png
|File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step18.png
|180px
|200px
|And get lowered (19) by a belayer
|Unscrew (18) and clean-up (19) the rest of your gear from the anchor
|File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step20.png
|200px
|And get lowered (20) by a belayer
}}
}}
=== References ===
=== References ===
Revision as of 07:56, 19 October 2025
This method is used for removing gear from a sport anchor, with a subsequent lowering of the lead climber. An alternative is to abseil from an anchor. For routes with no fixed protection at the anchor point (trad), you have either to leave some gear behind, or where it is appropriate and reasonably safe, use for example abseil with an equivocation hitch.
Lowering from a pre-built sport anchor
A brief description of a method which works for all discussed cases. If you need more insight for any of the steps, check the detailed description.
File:Prebuilt lowering brief step5.pngBefore committing to the system, visually inspect both the tie in and threading through the rappel ring (6) and test the setup by asking your belayer to block (7)
Lowering from a pre-built sport anchor - quick method
TODO
Lowering from bolts with maillons
TODO
Lowering directly from bolts or fixed ring
This method is forbidden by climbing associations in some countries and places. The ban is due to an increased bolts and fixed rings abrasion which leads to unnecessary and undesired shortening of the material replacement cycles. For example at traditional sandstone routes which are (due to a tradition) almost exclusively equipped with fixed rings, it would mean additional drilling into a rock which is often protected by a law due to nature preservation for further generations. In addition, this method cannot be used for lowering directly from hanger plates as the friction over the plates edges would severely damage the rope.
Step by step detailed descriptions
Lowering from a pre-built sport anchor - detailed description
File:Prebuilt lowering detailed step8.pngYou will get lowered on this knot, so inspect that its properly tied and that the loop goes through both of the harness tie-in loops (9)
File:Prebuilt lowering detailed step9.pngUnscrew the carabiner (10), detach it from your haness (11) and untie the Figure 8 on a bight (12), excessive extra slack will slide out (13)
