|Pull approximately two meters of slack (1), tie a [[Figure_eight#On_a_bight_(tie_in_in_a_middle)|Figure 8 on a bight]] on it and clip it to your harness belay loop
|Pull approximately two meters of slack (1), tie a [[Figure_eight#On_a_bight_(tie_in_in_a_middle)|Figure 8 on a bight]] on it and clip it to your harness belay loop
|File:prebuilt_lowering_brief_step2.png
|File:prebuilt_lowering_quick_step2.png
|90px
|200px
|Untie the Figure 8 which is directly at your harness (2)
|Untie the Figure 8 which is directly at your harness (2)
|File:prebuilt_lowering_brief_step3.png
|File:prebuilt_lowering_quick_step3.png
|180px
|200px
|Pull the loose rope strand through the rappel ring of the anchor (3) and attach it back to your harness by [[Figure_eight#Follow-through_(tie-in_on_the_rope_end)|tying in by a Figure 8]]
|Pull the loose rope strand through the rappel ring of the anchor (3) and attach it back to your harness by [[Figure_eight#Follow-through_(tie-in_on_the_rope_end)|tying in by a Figure 8]]
|File:prebuilt_lowering_brief_step4.png
|File:prebuilt_lowering_quick_step4.png
|180px
|200px
|Untie the Figure 8 on a bight, remove the carabiner at your harness (4), and the toprope carabiners (5)
|Remove the carabiner at your harness (4,5), untie the Figure 8 on a bight (6), remove the toprope carabiners (7) and ask your belayer for a block while lifting yourself slightly towards the anchor (8)
|File:prebuilt_lowering_brief_step5.png
|File:prebuilt_lowering_quick_step9.png
|180px
|160px
|Before committing to the system, visually inspect both the tie in and threading through the rappel ring (6) and test the setup by asking your belayer to block (7)
|Before committing to the system, check that you really can hang in the rope (your personal anchor should be loose and the rope tight) and visually inspect both the tie in and the threading through the rappel ring (9)
|File:prebuilt_lowering_brief_step6.png
|File:prebuilt_lowering_quick_step10.png
|180px
|160px
|After you inspected and tested that the setup is safe, you can remove the rest of the gear from the anchor (8)
|After you inspected and tested that the setup is safe, you can remove the rest of the gear from the anchor (10)
|File:prebuilt_lowering_brief_step7.png
|File:prebuilt_lowering_quick_step11.png
|180px
|160px
|And you are safe to get lowered (9)
|And you are safe to get lowered (11)
}}
}}
Line 74:
Line 74:
|To test the setup, ask belayer for a block (15) before removing your personal anchor
|To test the setup, ask belayer for a block (15) before removing your personal anchor
|File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step16.png
|File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step16.png
|200px
|160px
|Inspect both the tie-in (16) and the threading of the rope through the anchor rappel ring (17)
|Inspect both the tie-in (16) and the threading of the rope through the anchor rappel ring (17)
|File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step18.png
|File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step18.png
|200px
|160px
|Unscrew (18) and clean-up (19) the rest of your gear from the anchor
|Unscrew (18) and clean-up (19) the rest of your gear from the anchor
|File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step20.png
|File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step20.png
|200px
|160px
|And get lowered (20) by a belayer
|And get lowered (20) by a belayer
}}
}}
=== References ===
=== References ===
Revision as of 17:03, 19 October 2025
This method is used for removing gear from a sport anchor, with a subsequent lowering of the lead climber. An alternative is to abseil from an anchor. For routes with no fixed protection at the anchor point (trad), you have either to leave some gear behind, or where it is appropriate and reasonably safe, use for example abseil with an equivocation hitch.
Lowering from a pre-built sport anchor
A brief description of a method which works for all discussed cases. If you need more insight for any of the steps, check the detailed description.
File:Prebuilt lowering quick step4.pngRemove the carabiner at your harness (4,5), untie the Figure 8 on a bight (6), remove the toprope carabiners (7) and ask your belayer for a block while lifting yourself slightly towards the anchor (8)
File:Prebuilt lowering quick step9.pngBefore committing to the system, check that you really can hang in the rope (your personal anchor should be loose and the rope tight) and visually inspect both the tie in and the threading through the rappel ring (9)
Lowering from a pre-built sport anchor - quick method
TODO
Lowering from bolts with maillons
TODO
Lowering directly from bolts or fixed ring
This method is forbidden by climbing associations in some countries and places. The ban is due to an increased bolts and fixed rings abrasion which leads to unnecessary and undesired shortening of the material replacement cycles. For example at traditional sandstone routes which are (due to a tradition) almost exclusively equipped with fixed rings, it would mean additional drilling into a rock which is often protected by a law due to nature preservation for further generations. In addition, this method cannot be used for lowering directly from hanger plates as the friction over the plates edges would severely damage the rope.
Step by step detailed descriptions
Lowering from a pre-built sport anchor - detailed description
File:Prebuilt lowering detailed step8.pngYou will get lowered on this knot, so inspect that its properly tied and that the loop goes through both of the harness tie-in loops (9)
File:Prebuilt lowering detailed step9.pngUnscrew the carabiner (10), detach it from your haness (11) and untie the Figure 8 on a bight (12), excessive extra slack will slide out (13)
