Lowering a lead climber from an anchor: Difference between revisions

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=== Lowering directly from bolts or fixed ring ===

This method is forbidden by climbing associations in some countries and places. The ban is due to an increased bolts and fixed rings abrasion which leads to unnecessary and undesired shortening of the material replacement cycles. For example at traditional sandstone routes which are (due to a tradition) almost exclusively equipped with fixed rings, it would mean additional drilling into a rock which is often protected by a law due to nature preservation for further generations. In addition, this method cannot be used for lowering directly from hanger plates as the friction over the plates edges would severely damage the rope.

This method is forbidden by climbing associations in some countries and places.<ref>For example the czech mountaineering association allows abseiling exclusively. For toprope, it explicitly orders to place carabiners into the fixed protection (Article 3, number 4): {{cite web | url=https://www.horosvaz.cz/res/archive/330/056388.pdf | title=Pravidla lezení ve skalních oblastech ČR | publisher=Český horolezecký svaz | author1=Výkonný výbor ČHS | website=horosvaz.cz | date=June 12, 2020 | access-date=1 November 2025}}</ref> The ban is due to an increased bolts and fixed rings abrasion which leads to unnecessary and undesired shortening of the material replacement cycles. For example at traditional sandstone routes which are (due to a tradition) almost exclusively equipped with fixed rings, it would mean additional drilling into a rock which is often protected by a law due to nature preservation for further generations.<ref>{{cite web | url=https://horolezeckametodika.cz/horni-jisteni | title=Horní jištění | publisher=HOROLEZECKÁ METODIKA | first1=Tomáš | last1=Kublák | website=Horolezeckametodika.cz | access-date=1 November 2025 | url-status=live | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20240305142706/https://horolezeckametodika.cz/horni-jisteni | archive-date=5 March 2024}}</ref> In addition, this method cannot be used for lowering directly from hanger plates as the friction over the plates edges would severely damage the rope.

=== Step by step detailed descriptions ===

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 === Lowering directly from bolts or fixed ring ===
-This method is forbidden by climbing associations in some countries and places. The ban is due to an increased bolts and fixed rings abrasion which leads to unnecessary and undesired shortening of the material replacement cycles. For example at traditional sandstone routes which are (due to a tradition) almost exclusively equipped with fixed rings, it would mean additional drilling into a rock which is often protected by a law due to nature preservation for further generations. In addition, this method cannot be used for lowering directly from hanger plates as the friction over the plates edges would severely damage the rope.
+This method is forbidden by climbing associations in some countries and places.<ref>For example the czech mountaineering association allows abseiling exclusively. For toprope, it explicitly orders to place carabiners into the fixed protection (Article 3, number 4): {{cite web | url=https://www.horosvaz.cz/res/archive/330/056388.pdf | title=Pravidla lezení ve skalních oblastech ČR | publisher=Český horolezecký svaz | author1=Výkonný výbor ČHS | website=horosvaz.cz | date=June 12, 2020 | access-date=1 November 2025}}</ref> The ban is due to an increased bolts and fixed rings abrasion which leads to unnecessary and undesired shortening of the material replacement cycles. For example at traditional sandstone routes which are (due to a tradition) almost exclusively equipped with fixed rings, it would mean additional drilling into a rock which is often protected by a law due to nature preservation for further generations.<ref>{{cite web | url=https://horolezeckametodika.cz/horni-jisteni | title=Horní jištění | publisher=HOROLEZECKÁ METODIKA | first1=Tomáš | last1=Kublák | website=Horolezeckametodika.cz | access-date=1 November 2025 | url-status=live | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20240305142706/https://horolezeckametodika.cz/horni-jisteni | archive-date=5 March 2024}}</ref> In addition, this method cannot be used for lowering directly from hanger plates as the friction over the plates edges would severely damage the rope.
 === Step by step detailed descriptions ===