Lowering a lead climber from an anchor: Difference between revisions
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=== Lowering from a pre-built sport anchor === | === Lowering from a pre-built sport anchor === | ||
Steps: | |||
* | * Freeing the rope end without loosing the rope (temporary tie-in) | ||
* Threading the rope through the anchor and retying to its end | |||
* Threading the rope | * Removing the temporary tie-in, safety check, cleaning up | ||
* | |||
==== Freeing the rope end without loosing the rope (temporary tie-in) ==== | |||
{{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery_with_widths | {{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery_with_widths | ||
|File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step1.png | |File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step1.png | ||
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|Completely untie the Figure 8 which is directly at your harness (2) | |Completely untie the Figure 8 which is directly at your harness (2) | ||
}} | |||
Not clear? Go to the [[#Lowering from a pre-built sport anchor - detailed description|detailed description]]. | |||
==== Threading the rope through the anchor and retying to its end ==== | |||
{{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery_with_widths | |||
|File:prebuilt_lowering_quick_step3.png | |File:prebuilt_lowering_quick_step3.png | ||
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|Pull the loose rope strand through the rappel ring of the anchor (3) and attach it back to your harness by [[Figure_eight#Follow-through_(tie-in_on_the_rope_end)|tying in by a Figure 8]] | |Pull the loose rope strand through the rappel ring of the anchor (3) and attach it back to your harness by [[Figure_eight#Follow-through_(tie-in_on_the_rope_end)|tying in by a Figure 8]] | ||
}} | |||
Not clear? Go to the [[#Lowering from a pre-built sport anchor - detailed description|detailed description]]. | |||
==== Removing the temporary tie-in, safety checks, cleaning up ==== | |||
{{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery_with_widths | |||
|File:prebuilt_lowering_quick_step4.png | |File:prebuilt_lowering_quick_step4.png | ||
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|And you are safe to get lowered (11) | |And you are safe to get lowered (11) | ||
}} | }} | ||
Not clear? Go to the [[#Lowering from a pre-built sport anchor - detailed description|detailed description]]. | |||
=== Lowering from a pre-built sport anchor - quick method === | === Lowering from a pre-built sport anchor - quick method === | ||
This method can be used if the anchor is equipped by a rappel ring, or if the bolts or maillons are big enough. This method have two variations - either you get lowered on a Figure 8 clipped through the carabiner as depicted below,<ref>{{cite web | url=https://www.horosvaz.cz/res/archive/310/052449.pdf | title=Zrušení vratného bodu prvolezcem s následným spuštěním | publisher=Český horolezecký svaz | author1=Methodická komise ČHS | website=horosvaz.cz | date=December 23, 2019 | access-date=1 November 2025}}</ref> or you re-tie to the end of the rope in similar fashion as described in the chapter above. If you decide to leave a long slack, be mindful of its placement. Either wrap it around the rope just in front of the Figure 8, or put it over one shoulder, or clip it to your harness. Having a slack around your neck leads to a risk of a potentially fatal injury.<ref>Fatal injury of a mountain rescue member due to a rope around the neck/shoulders: {{cite web | url=https://www.horydoly.cz/tragedie/na-zabim-koni-zahynul-slovensky-horolezec.html | title=Na Žabím koni zahynul slovenský horolezec (Slovakian climber died on Žabí kůň) | publisher=UpDown Media, s.r.o. | first1=Jakub | last1=Turek | website=Horydoly.cz | date=30 October 2019 | access-date=1 November 2025 | url-status=live | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20221201164749/https://www.horydoly.cz/tragedie/na-zabim-koni-zahynul-slovensky-horolezec.html | archive-date=1 December 2022}}</ref> | This method can be used if the anchor is equipped by a rappel ring, or if the bolts or maillons are big enough. This method have two variations - either you get lowered on a Figure 8 clipped through the carabiner as depicted below,<ref>{{cite web | url=https://www.horosvaz.cz/res/archive/310/052449.pdf | title=Zrušení vratného bodu prvolezcem s následným spuštěním | publisher=Český horolezecký svaz | author1=Methodická komise ČHS | website=horosvaz.cz | date=December 23, 2019 | access-date=1 November 2025}}</ref> or you re-tie to the end of the rope in similar fashion as described in the chapter above. If you decide to leave a long slack, be mindful of its placement. Either wrap it around the rope just in front of the Figure 8, or put it over one shoulder, or clip it to your harness. Having a slack around your neck leads to a risk of a potentially fatal injury.<ref>Fatal injury of a mountain rescue member due to a rope around the neck/shoulders: {{cite web | url=https://www.horydoly.cz/tragedie/na-zabim-koni-zahynul-slovensky-horolezec.html | title=Na Žabím koni zahynul slovenský horolezec (Slovakian climber died on Žabí kůň) | publisher=UpDown Media, s.r.o. | first1=Jakub | last1=Turek | website=Horydoly.cz | date=30 October 2019 | access-date=1 November 2025 | url-status=live | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20221201164749/https://www.horydoly.cz/tragedie/na-zabim-koni-zahynul-slovensky-horolezec.html | archive-date=1 December 2022}}</ref> | ||
Steps: | |||
* Pulling a bite of the rope through the anchor, and tying into it | |||
* Safety check, freeing the rope end, cleaning-up | |||
==== Pulling a bite of the rope through the anchor, and tying into it ==== | |||
{{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery_with_widths | {{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery_with_widths | ||
|File: prebuilt_lowering_doublestrand_step1.png | |File: prebuilt_lowering_doublestrand_step1.png | ||
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|Clip the Figure 8 to your harness belay loop (3) | |Clip the Figure 8 to your harness belay loop (3) | ||
}} | |||
==== Safety checks, freeing the rope end, cleaning-up ==== | |||
{{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery_with_widths | |||
|File: prebuilt_lowering_doublestrand_step4.png | |File: prebuilt_lowering_doublestrand_step4.png | ||
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=== Lowering directly from bolts or fixed ring === | === Lowering directly from bolts or fixed ring === | ||
This method is forbidden by climbing associations in some countries and places.<ref>For example the czech mountaineering association allows abseiling exclusively. For toprope, it explicitly orders to place carabiners into the fixed protection (Article 3, number 4): {{cite web | url=https://www.horosvaz.cz/res/archive/330/056388.pdf | title=Pravidla lezení ve skalních oblastech ČR | publisher=Český horolezecký svaz | author1=Výkonný výbor ČHS | website=horosvaz.cz | date=June 12, 2020 | access-date=1 November 2025}}</ref> The ban is due to an increased bolts and fixed rings abrasion which leads to unnecessary and undesired shortening of the material replacement cycles. For example at traditional sandstone routes which are (due to a tradition) almost exclusively equipped with fixed rings, it would mean additional drilling into a rock which is often protected by a law due to nature preservation for further generations.<ref>{{cite web | url=https://horolezeckametodika.cz/horni-jisteni | title=Horní jištění | publisher=HOROLEZECKÁ METODIKA | first1=Tomáš | last1=Kublák | website=Horolezeckametodika.cz | access-date=1 November 2025 | url-status=live | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20240305142706/https://horolezeckametodika.cz/horni-jisteni | archive-date=5 March 2024}}</ref> In addition, this method cannot be used for lowering directly from hanger plates as the friction over the plates edges would severely damage the rope. | This method is '''forbidden by climbing associations in some countries and places'''.<ref>For example the czech mountaineering association allows abseiling exclusively. For toprope, it explicitly orders to place carabiners into the fixed protection (Article 3, number 4): {{cite web | url=https://www.horosvaz.cz/res/archive/330/056388.pdf | title=Pravidla lezení ve skalních oblastech ČR | publisher=Český horolezecký svaz | author1=Výkonný výbor ČHS | website=horosvaz.cz | date=June 12, 2020 | access-date=1 November 2025}}</ref> The ban is due to an increased bolts and fixed rings abrasion which leads to unnecessary and undesired shortening of the material replacement cycles. For example at traditional sandstone routes which are (due to a tradition) almost exclusively equipped with fixed rings, it would mean additional drilling into a rock which is often protected by a law due to nature preservation for further generations.<ref>{{cite web | url=https://horolezeckametodika.cz/horni-jisteni | title=Horní jištění | publisher=HOROLEZECKÁ METODIKA | first1=Tomáš | last1=Kublák | website=Horolezeckametodika.cz | access-date=1 November 2025 | url-status=live | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20240305142706/https://horolezeckametodika.cz/horni-jisteni | archive-date=5 March 2024}}</ref> In addition, this method cannot be used for lowering directly from hanger plates as the friction over the plates edges would severely damage the rope. | ||
The method is very similar to the method with maillons, only the rope is in this case threaded directly through the bolts. | The method is very similar to the method with maillons, only the rope is in this case threaded directly through the bolts. | ||
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=== Step by step detailed descriptions === | === Step by step detailed descriptions === | ||
==== Lowering from a pre-built sport anchor - detailed description ==== | ==== Lowering from a pre-built sport anchor - detailed description ==== | ||
===== Freeing the rope end without loosing the rope (temporary tie-in) ===== | |||
{{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery_with_widths | {{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery_with_widths | ||
|File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step1.png | |File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step1.png | ||
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|And completely untie it (6) | |And completely untie it (6) | ||
}} | |||
===== Threading the rope through the anchor and retying to its end ===== | |||
{{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery_with_widths | |||
|File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step6.png | |File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step6.png | ||
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|You will get lowered on this knot, so inspect that its properly tied and that the loop goes through both of the harness tie-in loops (9) | |You will get lowered on this knot, so inspect that its properly tied and that the loop goes through both of the harness tie-in loops (9) | ||
}} | |||
===== Removing the temporary tie-in, safety check, cleaning up ===== | |||
{{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery_with_widths | |||
|File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step9.png | |File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step9.png | ||
|200px | |200px | ||