Clove hitch: Difference between revisions

added citation to the strength reduction
Line 7: Line 7:
| uses = Anchor building, (self-)attaching climber to an anchor, belay station offsetting and more
| uses = Anchor building, (self-)attaching climber to an anchor, belay station offsetting and more
| category = Hitch
| category = Hitch
| strength = polyamid ~50-60%, 6mm aramid ~35%, slips lower in some cases
| strength = polyamid ~50-60%, 6mm aramid ~35%, slips lower in some cases<ref name=Edelrid2020>{{cite web | url=https://edelrid.com/eu-en/knowledge/knowledge-base/strength-reduction-of-textile-materials-by-knots | title=Strength reduction of textile materials by knots | publisher=EDELRID GmbH & Co. KG | author=EDELRID Team | date=20 October 2020 | website=edelrid | access-date=10 August 2025}}</ref>
}}
}}


Line 67: Line 67:




In case of a dynamic rope around a carabiner, the clove hitch generally does not slip till ~6 kN. Chance of slipping is higher if the clove hitch is tied around a big-diameter object (tree, smooth stone), and with static ropes. With 8mm dyneema sling around a carabiner there is a report of slow slippage already ~3 kN of force. For list of values, see the table on the right.<ref>{{cite web | url=https://edelrid.com/eu-en/knowledge/knowledge-base/strength-reduction-of-textile-materials-by-knots | title=Strength reduction of textile materials by knots | publisher=EDELRID GmbH & Co. KG | author=EDELRID Team | date=20 October 2020 | website=edelrid | access-date=10 August 2025}}</ref> Therefore the clove hitch should be backed-up by another knot in critical applications, for example in cases where it might slip off the end of the sling/rope.
In case of a dynamic rope around a carabiner, the clove hitch generally does not slip till ~6 kN. Chance of slipping is higher if the clove hitch is tied around a big-diameter object (tree, smooth stone), and with static ropes. With 8mm dyneema sling around a carabiner there is a report of slow slippage already ~3 kN of force. For list of values, see the table on the right.<ref name=Edelrid2020 /> Therefore the clove hitch should be backed-up by another knot in critical applications, for example in cases where it might slip off the end of the sling/rope.


== References ==
== References ==