Figure eight: Difference between revisions

Line 18:

This method is the most commonly used method for tying-in onto a rope end.

[[File: fig8_step1.png|~~80px~~]]

[[File: fig8_step1.png|90px]]

[[File: fig8_step2.png|~~80px~~]]

[[File: fig8_step2.png|90px]]

[[File: fig8_step3.png|~~160px~~]]

[[File: fig8_step3.png|180px]]

[[File: fig8_step4.png|~~160px~~]]

[[File: fig8_step4.png|180px]]

[[File: fig8_step5.png|~~160px~~]]

[[File: fig8_step5.png|180px]]

[[File: fig8_step6.png|~~160px~~]]

[[File: fig8_step6.png|180px]]

[[File: fig8_step7to10.png|~~160px~~]]

[[File: fig8_step7to10.png|180px]]

[[File: fig8_step11.png|~~160px~~]]

[[File: fig8_step11.png|180px]]

'''Steps description''': First take a bight of a rope and turn it end around itself making a half of the turn (1), then pull the rope through the upper eye (2) creating a figure-eight knot. Next pull the rope through the both eyes of the harness next to the belay loop (3). Continue by following-through the original figure-eight knot (4,5,6). Next tighten the rope ends (7,8,9,10) and at the end do not forget to check the knot and if the loop is threaded through the harness correctly (11). This step should be done also as a part of the partner check!

=== On a bight (tie in in a middle) ===

~~TODO~~

[[File: fig8_mid_step1.png|100px]]

[[File: fig8_mid_step2.png|100px]]

[[File: fig8_mid_step3.png|100px]]

[[File: fig8_mid_step4.png|100px]]

[[File: fig8_mid_step5.png|100px]]

[[File: fig8_mid_step6.png|100px]]

'''Steps description''': ~~TODO~~

'''Steps description''': Take a bight of a rope and do a half-turn around itself (1,2). Then pull the bight through the loop made by the turn (3) and slightly tighten the knot (4). If the knot is malformed, dress it properly for easier checking (5) and once finished, inspect the knot (6).

== Preventing from getting stuck ==

~~TODO~~

As well studied and well-documented/illustrated by Hard is Easy,<ref>{{Cite AV media | people= Hard is easy | date=29 August 2020 | title=Why Figure 8 knot is NOT hard to untie! | url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QAr-uHd8h8o | publisher=Hard is Easy | access-date=16 August 2025}}</ref> if the figure 8 is not properly dressed and tightened before loading it, it tends to malform substantially after taking a fall, resulting in a knot which is hard and sometimes even almost impossible to untie. Rope parameters (diameter, stiffness) also play a role. Last very important parameter discovered was if the load strand goes on the top of the knot, or in the middle of the knot.

[[File: fig8_tighten.png|200px]]

[[File: fig8_goodstrand.png|200px]]

[[File: fig8_uglystrand.png|200px]]

== Rolling ==

@@ Line 18: / Line 18: @@
 This method is the most commonly used method for tying-in onto a rope end.
-[[File: fig8_step1.png|80px]]
+[[File: fig8_step1.png|90px]]
-[[File: fig8_step2.png|80px]]
+[[File: fig8_step2.png|90px]]
-[[File: fig8_step3.png|160px]]
+[[File: fig8_step3.png|180px]]
-[[File: fig8_step4.png|160px]]
+[[File: fig8_step4.png|180px]]
-[[File: fig8_step5.png|160px]]
+[[File: fig8_step5.png|180px]]
-[[File: fig8_step6.png|160px]]
+[[File: fig8_step6.png|180px]]
-[[File: fig8_step7to10.png|160px]]
+[[File: fig8_step7to10.png|180px]]
-[[File: fig8_step11.png|160px]]
+[[File: fig8_step11.png|180px]]
 '''Steps description''': First take a bight of a rope and turn it end around itself making a half of the turn (1), then pull the rope through the upper eye (2) creating a figure-eight knot. Next pull the rope through the both eyes of the harness next to the belay loop (3). Continue by following-through the original figure-eight knot (4,5,6). Next tighten the rope ends (7,8,9,10) and at the end do not forget to check the knot and if the loop is threaded through the harness correctly (11). This step should be done also as a part of the partner check!
 === On a bight (tie in in a middle) ===
-TODO
+[[File: fig8_mid_step1.png|100px]]
+[[File: fig8_mid_step2.png|100px]]
+[[File: fig8_mid_step3.png|100px]]
+[[File: fig8_mid_step4.png|100px]]
+[[File: fig8_mid_step5.png|100px]]
+[[File: fig8_mid_step6.png|100px]]
-'''Steps description''': TODO
+'''Steps description''': Take a bight of a rope and do a half-turn around itself (1,2). Then pull the bight through the loop made by the turn (3) and slightly tighten the knot (4). If the knot is malformed, dress it properly for easier checking (5) and once finished, inspect the knot (6).
 == Preventing from getting stuck ==
-TODO
+As well studied and well-documented/illustrated by Hard is Easy,<ref>{{Cite AV media | people= Hard is easy | date=29 August 2020 | title=Why Figure 8 knot is NOT hard to untie! | url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QAr-uHd8h8o | publisher=Hard is Easy | access-date=16 August 2025}}</ref> if the figure 8 is not properly dressed and tightened before loading it, it tends to malform substantially after taking a fall, resulting in a knot which is hard and sometimes even almost impossible to untie. Rope parameters (diameter, stiffness) also play a role. Last very important parameter discovered was if the load strand goes on the top of the knot, or in the middle of the knot.
+[[File: fig8_tighten.png|200px]]
+[[File: fig8_goodstrand.png|200px]]
+[[File: fig8_uglystrand.png|200px]]
 == Rolling ==