Carabiner: Difference between revisions
testing - formatting |
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File:gate_rock.png | Unintended opening of the carabiner might have fatal consequences | File:gate_rock.png | Unintended opening of the carabiner might have fatal consequences | ||
</gallery> | </gallery> | ||
{{#invoke:FlexGallery|hi | |||
|120 | |||
|File:crossload.png | |||
|Avoid cross-loading | |||
|File:gate_rock_fix.png | |||
|Inspect the carabiner surroundings, orient the gate into a free space | |||
|File:gate_rock.png | |||
|Unintended opening of the carabiner might have fatal consequences | |||
}} | |||
Do not place carabiners in a way that they would be loaded against a rock edge. HowNOT2 recorded a measurement where he cracked a sideway-loaded carabiner below 4 kN. That means there is very realistic chance the carabiner could fail during a lead-climb fall. If you want to secure yourself to a bolt or a piton in such an inappropriate position, extend the bolt by a sling or a rope. | Do not place carabiners in a way that they would be loaded against a rock edge. HowNOT2 recorded a measurement where he cracked a sideway-loaded carabiner below 4 kN. That means there is very realistic chance the carabiner could fail during a lead-climb fall. If you want to secure yourself to a bolt or a piton in such an inappropriate position, extend the bolt by a sling or a rope. | ||
{{#invoke:FlexGallery|hi | |||
|120 | |||
|File:carabine_edge_1.png | |||
|Positioning carabiner over an edge atypically loads the carabiner | |||
|File:carabine_edge_2.png | |||
|Carabiner might easily bend, or even collapse | |||
|File:carabine_edge_fix_1.png | |||
|Offset of the carabiner by a sling | |||
|File:carabine_edge_fix_2.png | |||
|Offset of the carabiner by a rope | |||
}} | |||
== Gate types == | == Gate types == | ||