Carabiner: Difference between revisions

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Although certified climbing carabiners are generally very safe if used properly, in some cases strength and reliability of the carabiners gets compromised by improper handling. Also in some applications, safe practice requires using a carabiner with a various level and type of the gate-opening protection.

Prevent carabiners from cross-loading, they are usually still able to carry up to ~7 kN, but that is substantially lower than their usual strength. In case of a wired-gate carabiner, it might also induce a rope strain if the rope is directed over the gate. Prevent placing carabiner gate towards the rock face and/or the rock features, it might open the gate. You can prevent this easily by orienting the gate in a free direction.

Prevent carabiners from cross-loading, they are usually still able to carry up to ~7 kN, but that is substantially lower than their usual strength. In case of a wired-gate carabiner, it might also induce a rope strain if the rope is directed over the gate. Prevent placing carabiner gate towards the rock face and/or the rock features, it might open the gate. You can prevent this easily by orienting the gate in a free direction.<ref>{{cite web | url=https://www.ocun.com/data/files/sites/3vnkgz9j.pdf | title=Instructions for the use of connectors EN 566 and carabiners (EN 12275). (v250520) | publisher=Ocun (RP Climbing s.r.o.) | author1=Ocun | website=Ocun.com/service/instructions | date=May 28, 2025 | access-date=1 September 2025}}</ref>

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Do not place carabiners in a way that they would be loaded against a rock edge. HowNOT2 recorded a measurement where he cracked a sideway-loaded carabiner below 4 kN.<ref name=hownot2>{{Cite AV media | first1=Ryan | last1=Jenks | date=7 June 2021 | title=Carabiners Loaded Sideways!?!? | url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=buNotkWWLHg | publisher=HowNOT2 | access-date=1 September 2025}}</ref> That means there is very realistic chance the carabiner could fail during a lead-climb fall. If you want to secure yourself to a bolt or a piton in such an inappropriate position, extend the bolt by a sling or a rope.

Do not place carabiners in a way that they would be loaded against a rock edge. HowNOT2 recorded a measurement where he cracked a sideway-loaded carabiner below 4 kN.<ref name=hownot2>{{Cite AV media | first1=Ryan | last1=Jenks | date=7 June 2021 | title=Carabiners Loaded Sideways!?!? | url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=buNotkWWLHg | publisher=HowNOT2 | access-date=1 September 2025}}</ref> That means there is very realistic chance the carabiner could fail during a lead-climb fall. If you want to secure yourself to a bolt or a piton in such an inappropriate position, extend the bolt by a sling or a rope.<ref>{{cite web | url=https://horolezeckametodika.cz/karabiny-v-jisteni | title=Karabiny v Jištění (Carabiners in protection) | publisher=HOROLEZECKÁ METODIKA | first1=Tomáš | last1=Kublák | website=Horolezeckametodika.cz | access-date=1 September 2025}}</ref>

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@@ Line 12: / Line 12: @@
 Although certified climbing carabiners are generally very safe if used properly, in some cases strength and reliability of the carabiners gets compromised by improper handling. Also in some applications, safe practice requires using a carabiner with a various level and type of the gate-opening protection.
-Prevent carabiners from cross-loading, they are usually still able to carry up to ~7 kN, but that is substantially lower than their usual strength. In case of a wired-gate carabiner, it might also induce a rope strain if the rope is directed over the gate. Prevent placing carabiner gate towards the rock face and/or the rock features, it might open the gate. You can prevent this easily by orienting the gate in a free direction.
+Prevent carabiners from cross-loading, they are usually still able to carry up to ~7 kN, but that is substantially lower than their usual strength. In case of a wired-gate carabiner, it might also induce a rope strain if the rope is directed over the gate. Prevent placing carabiner gate towards the rock face and/or the rock features, it might open the gate. You can prevent this easily by orienting the gate in a free direction.<ref>{{cite web | url=https://www.ocun.com/data/files/sites/3vnkgz9j.pdf | title=Instructions for the use of connectors EN 566 and carabiners (EN 12275). (v250520) | publisher=Ocun (RP Climbing s.r.o.) | author1=Ocun | website=Ocun.com/service/instructions | date=May 28, 2025 | access-date=1 September 2025}}</ref>
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-Do not place carabiners in a way that they would be loaded against a rock edge. HowNOT2 recorded a measurement where he cracked a sideway-loaded carabiner below 4 kN.<ref name=hownot2>{{Cite AV media | first1=Ryan | last1=Jenks | date=7 June 2021 | title=Carabiners Loaded Sideways!?!? | url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=buNotkWWLHg | publisher=HowNOT2 | access-date=1 September 2025}}</ref> That means there is very realistic chance the carabiner could fail during a lead-climb fall. If you want to secure yourself to a bolt or a piton in such an inappropriate position, extend the bolt by a sling or a rope.
+Do not place carabiners in a way that they would be loaded against a rock edge. HowNOT2 recorded a measurement where he cracked a sideway-loaded carabiner below 4 kN.<ref name=hownot2>{{Cite AV media | first1=Ryan | last1=Jenks | date=7 June 2021 | title=Carabiners Loaded Sideways!?!? | url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=buNotkWWLHg | publisher=HowNOT2 | access-date=1 September 2025}}</ref> That means there is very realistic chance the carabiner could fail during a lead-climb fall. If you want to secure yourself to a bolt or a piton in such an inappropriate position, extend the bolt by a sling or a rope.<ref>{{cite web | url=https://horolezeckametodika.cz/karabiny-v-jisteni | title=Karabiny v Jištění (Carabiners in protection) | publisher=HOROLEZECKÁ METODIKA | first1=Tomáš | last1=Kublák | website=Horolezeckametodika.cz | access-date=1 September 2025}}</ref>
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