Munter hitch/nl: Difference between revisions

| other_names = HMS, HMS knot, munter

| pros = Fast, simple, just HMS carabiner needed

| cons = Rope abrasion, rope tangling, no braking assist

Munter hitch (also known as HMS) is an essential knot used for belaying in occasions when a belay device cannot be used. It is also used in advanced rope techniques (for example rescue techniques).

This method is very robust and suitable for learning how to tie the hitch.

[[File: Hms_ez_step1.png|140px]]

[[File: Hms_ez_step2.png|140px]]

[[File: Hms_ez_step3.png|140px]]

[[File: Hms_ez_step4.png|140px]]

[[File: Hms_ez_step5.png|140px]]

[[File: Hms_ez_step6.png|140px]]

[[File: Hms_harness_step0.png|120px]]

[[File: Hms_harness_step1.png|120px]]

[[File: Hms_harness_step2.png|120px]]

[[File: Hms_harness_step3.png|120px]]

[[File: Hms_harness_step5.png|120px]]

 

'''Steps description''': start with a rope through the carabiner which is attached to your harness. Take a bite of a rope (1) and create a loop (2). Then you open the carabiner gate (3) and seat the loop into the carabiner (4). Screw the safety-lock (5), inspect that everything is correct (6) and pull the break-strand (7) to test if the munter hitch flips into another munter as a final check.

Always hold the break strand! Belaying with Munter hitch is reliable and reasonably comfortable. Munter works smoothly when not loaded, yet giving friction to catch a fall once tensioned. It blocks regardless of the angle of the breaking hand. The main reason why it is used less often is that if the rope is pulled through the hitch under tension, Munter tends to tangle the rope.

When belaying with Munter hitch, aside from always holding the break strand, belayer should pay attention to keep fingers at a respectful distance from the knot, otherwise he might risk jamming his fingers into the belay, which might result in a severe finger injury. Belayer should also ensure to tie the Munter in a way that it does not interfere with the carabiner gate/lock. Otherwise the rope friction might unlock, and maybe even open the gate of the carabiner.

[[File: Munter_fingers_safe.png|144px]]

[[File: Munter_fingers.png|144px]]

[[File: Hms_harness_step0.png|120px]]

[[File: Hms belay with climber.png|120px]]

[[File: hms_belay_left_top.png|120px]]

[[File: hms_belay_left_bot.png|120px]]

This is the most recognized method to tie-off the mule overhand to set your hands free. The tie-off consists from a slipknot and then overhand knot, both of which are tied around the life end of the rope. As both of these knots are tied with a bite and rope is also pulled through the carabiner, it takes practice to be able to securely inspect the tie-off.

[[File: hms_tieoff_step1_p6w.png|120px]]

[[File: hms_tieoff_step2_p8w.png|160px]]

[[File: hms_tieoff_step3_p8w.png|160px]]

[[File: hms_tieoff_step4_p8w.png|160px]]

[[File: Munter_tieoff_step5.png|200px]]

[[File: hms_tieoff_step7_p8w.png|160px]]

[[File: hms_tieoff_step8_p8w.png|160px]]

[[File: hms_tieoff_step9_p6w.png|120px]]

[[File: hms_tieoff_step10_p6w.png|120px]]

[[File: Hms hand step1.png|150px]]

[[File: Hms hand step2.png|150px]]

[[File: Hms hand step3.png|150px]]

[[File: Hms hand step4.png|150px]]

 

'''Steps description''': Start with a rope through a carabiner. Grab the rope strand closer to you behind the other strand. Pull the rope strand closer to you below the other strand (1) and up, open the gate (2) and pull the rope through the gate from the front to back and sit the rope into the carabiner (3), the gate closes itself automatically. Screw the safety-lock (4) and  visually inspect that everything is correct (5) and pull the break-strand (6) to see if the munter hitch flips into another munter hitch as a final check.

[[File: Munter_tie_step1.png|100px]]

[[File: Munter_tie_step2.png|100px]]

[[File: Munter_tie_step3.png|100px]]

[[File: Munter_tie_step4.png|100px]]

[[File: Munter_tie_step5.png|100px]]

[[File: Munter_tie_step6.png|100px]]

[[File: Munter_tie_step7.png|100px]]