Garda hitch: Difference between revisions

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== Slippage ==

Garda hitch is ~~prone to slip~~ in some cases, as illustrated and studied by Ryan Jenks (HowNOT2).<ref name=hownot2 /> In general, the smaller the rope diameter and the bigger/~~more round~~ the carabiners, the higher the chance that the hitch slips. The lowest recorded slippage ~~force~~ was at just 2.4 kN (oval screw-gate carabiners ~~used~~ together with 6 mm nylon sling). In case of a 9 mm nylon rope, limit force was generally around 8-10 kN (desheating) except ~~for the~~ oval screw-gate carabiners (6 kN, slipping). As 8-10 kN is roughly twice of a ~~force~~ climber experiences during a lead fall, slippage should not be an issue as long as a climbing rope together with D-shaped carabiners ~~is used~~.

Garda hitch is, in some cases, prone to slipping, as illustrated and studied by Ryan Jenks (HowNOT2).<ref name=hownot2 /> In general, the smaller the rope diameter and the bigger/rounder the carabiners, the higher the chance that the hitch slips. The lowest recorded force when slippage occured was just 2.4 kN, when he used oval screw-gate carabiners together with a 6 mm nylon sling. In the case of a 9 mm nylon rope (diameter similar to most climbing ropes), limit force was generally around 8-10 kN (desheating), except when he used oval screw-gate carabiners (6 kN, slipping). As 8-10 kN is roughly twice the maximum force a climber experiences during a lead fall, slippage should not be an issue, as long as you use a climbing rope together with D-shaped carabiners.

== References ==

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 == Slippage ==
-Garda hitch is prone to slip in some cases, as illustrated and studied by Ryan Jenks (HowNOT2).<ref name=hownot2 /> In general, the smaller the rope diameter and the bigger/more round the carabiners, the higher the chance that the hitch slips. The lowest recorded slippage force was at just 2.4 kN (oval screw-gate carabiners used together with 6 mm nylon sling). In case of a 9 mm nylon rope, limit force was generally around 8-10 kN (desheating) except for the oval screw-gate carabiners (6 kN, slipping). As 8-10 kN is roughly twice of a force climber experiences during a lead fall, slippage should not be an issue as long as a climbing rope together with D-shaped carabiners is used.
+Garda hitch is, in some cases, prone to slipping, as illustrated and studied by Ryan Jenks (HowNOT2).<ref name=hownot2 /> In general, the smaller the rope diameter and the bigger/rounder the carabiners, the higher the chance that the hitch slips. The lowest recorded force when slippage occured was just 2.4 kN, when he used oval screw-gate carabiners together with a 6 mm nylon sling. In the case of a 9 mm nylon rope (diameter similar to most climbing ropes), limit force was generally around 8-10 kN (desheating), except when he used oval screw-gate carabiners (6 kN, slipping). As 8-10 kN is roughly twice the maximum force a climber experiences during a lead fall, slippage should not be an issue, as long as you use a climbing rope together with D-shaped carabiners.
 == References ==