Garda hitch: Difference between revisions

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Garda hitch is one of the elementary hitches used ~~among other applications~~ in crevasse self-rescue. Although ~~its~~ simple and works reliably ~~on tested~~ setups, its application scope is limited by its unidirectional nature and high friction under load.<ref name=friction_alpinesavvy/> In ~~some~~ very specific cases, it has ~~possible~~ [[#slippage|~~safety issues~~]]. ~~Carabiner~~ choice and testing prior to use is crucial ~~for the systems reliability~~. In many applications, ~~garda~~ hitch can be replaced ~~with~~ a [[Tuber_(Tubular_belay_device)#Tuber_as_an_ascender | tuber with guide mode]].

'''Garda hitch''' is one of the elementary hitches used for example in crevasse self-rescue. Although it is simple to tie and works reliably in case of optimized setups, its application scope is limited because of its unidirectional nature and high friction under load.<ref name=friction_alpinesavvy/> In very specific cases, it has safety issues ([[#slippage|slippage]]). For the Garda hitch reliability, carabiner choice and testing prior to use is crucial. In many applications, Garda hitch can be replaced by a [[Tuber_(Tubular_belay_device)#Tuber_as_an_ascender | tuber with guide mode]].

== Tying ==

'''The two carabiners used for tying should be identical for the knot to work properly!''' D-shaped screw-gate carabiners are recommended. ~~Girth~~ hitch on the sling is recommended (not drawn). It is highly recommended to test ~~the setup on~~ the carabiners intended for ~~garda~~ in advance in a safe environment.<ref name=vdiff/>

'''The two carabiners used for tying should be identical for the knot to work properly!''' D-shaped screw-gate carabiners are recommended. Tying a girth hitch on the top sling is recommended (not drawn). It is highly recommended to test the carabiners and rope intended for Garda in-advance in a safe environment.<ref name=vdiff/>

{{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery|120px

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|Wrap the rear strand around the front carabiner (2)

|File: garda_step3.png

|Take the strand of the rope ~~on the left~~ and move it above the loop (3), ~~garda~~ should seat itself into the corners of the D-carabiners

|Take the left strand of the rope and move it above the loop (3), Garda should seat itself into the corners of the D-carabiners

|File: garda_step4.png

|Secure the gates (4)

|File: garda_step5.png

|Inspect the gates and the ~~garda~~ hitch (5)

|Inspect the gates and the Garda hitch (5)

}}

== Carabiner choice ==

Screw-gate carabiners are safe to use as long as the locks are not too bulky for the carabiners to snap properly. Movement of the rope in the system might unclip carabiners without gate locks.<ref name=alpinesavvy~~/> D-Shaped carabiners are recommended over other shapes.<ref name=vdiff/><ref name=hownot2~~ />

D-Shaped carabiners are recommended over other shapes.<ref name=vdiff/><ref name=hownot2 /> Screw-gate carabiners are safe to use as long as the locks are not too bulky for the carabiners to snap properly. Movement of the rope in the system might unclip carabiners without gate locks.<ref name=alpinesavvy/>

== Slippage ==

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 }}
-Garda hitch is one of the elementary hitches used among other applications in crevasse self-rescue. Although its simple and works reliably on tested setups, its application scope is limited by its unidirectional nature and high friction under load.<ref name=friction_alpinesavvy/> In some very specific cases, it has possible [[#slippage|safety issues]]. Carabiner choice and testing prior to use is crucial for the systems reliability. In many applications, garda hitch can be replaced with a [[Tuber_(Tubular_belay_device)#Tuber_as_an_ascender | tuber with guide mode]].
+'''Garda hitch''' is one of the elementary hitches used for example in crevasse self-rescue. Although it is simple to tie and works reliably in case of optimized setups, its application scope is limited because of its unidirectional nature and high friction under load.<ref name=friction_alpinesavvy/> In very specific cases, it has safety issues ([[#slippage|slippage]]). For the Garda hitch reliability,  carabiner choice and testing prior to use is crucial. In many applications, Garda hitch can be replaced by a [[Tuber_(Tubular_belay_device)#Tuber_as_an_ascender | tuber with guide mode]].
 == Tying ==
-'''The two carabiners used for tying should be identical for the knot to work properly!''' D-shaped screw-gate carabiners are recommended. Girth hitch on the sling is recommended (not drawn). It is highly recommended to test the setup on the carabiners intended for garda in advance in a safe environment.<ref name=vdiff/>
+'''The two carabiners used for tying should be identical for the knot to work properly!''' D-shaped screw-gate carabiners are recommended. Tying a girth hitch on the top sling is recommended (not drawn). It is highly recommended to test the carabiners and rope intended for Garda in-advance in a safe environment.<ref name=vdiff/>
 {{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery|120px
@@ Line 21: / Line 21: @@
 |Wrap the rear strand around the front carabiner (2)
 |File: garda_step3.png
-|Take the strand of the rope on the left and move it above the loop (3), garda should seat itself into the corners of the D-carabiners
+|Take the left strand of the rope and move it above the loop (3), Garda should seat itself into the corners of the D-carabiners
 |File: garda_step4.png
 |Secure the gates (4)
 |File: garda_step5.png
-|Inspect the gates and the garda hitch (5)
+|Inspect the gates and the Garda hitch (5)
 }}
 == Carabiner choice ==
-Screw-gate carabiners are safe to use as long as the locks are not too bulky for the carabiners to snap properly. Movement of the rope in the system might unclip carabiners without gate locks.<ref name=alpinesavvy/> D-Shaped carabiners are recommended over other shapes.<ref name=vdiff/><ref name=hownot2 />
+D-Shaped carabiners are recommended over other shapes.<ref name=vdiff/><ref name=hownot2 /> Screw-gate carabiners are safe to use as long as the locks are not too bulky for the carabiners to snap properly. Movement of the rope in the system might unclip carabiners without gate locks.<ref name=alpinesavvy/>
 == Slippage ==