Lowering a lead climber from an anchor: Difference between revisions
Created lowering lead climber page |
m removed formatting errors |
||
| Line 1: | Line 1: | ||
This page explains how to safely lower a lead climber who has reached an anchor, while cleaning-up the anchor. An alternative is to [[abseiling|abseil]] from an anchor. Only cases with a sport anchor are described. For traditional routes, you either have to leave some gear behind, or where appropriate and reasonably safe, use for example an equivocation hitch. | This page explains how to safely lower a lead climber who has reached an anchor, while cleaning-up the anchor. An alternative is to [[abseiling|abseil]] from an anchor. Only cases with a sport anchor are described. For traditional routes, you either have to leave some gear behind, or where appropriate and reasonably safe, use for example an equivocation hitch. | ||
=== Lowering from a pre-built sport anchor | === Lowering from a pre-built sport anchor === | ||
TODO | TODO | ||
=== Lowering from bolts with maillons | === Lowering from bolts with maillons === | ||
TODO | TODO | ||
=== Lowering directly from bolts or fixed ring | === Lowering directly from bolts or fixed ring === | ||
This method is forbidden by associations in some countries and places (traditional sandstone routes with rings) due to an increased bolts and fixed rings abrasion. This method cannot be used for lowering directly from hanger plates as the friction over the plates edges would severely damage the rope. | This method is forbidden by associations in some countries and places (traditional sandstone routes with rings) due to an increased bolts and fixed rings abrasion. This method cannot be used for lowering directly from hanger plates as the friction over the plates edges would severely damage the rope. | ||
Revision as of 14:33, 9 October 2025
This page explains how to safely lower a lead climber who has reached an anchor, while cleaning-up the anchor. An alternative is to abseil from an anchor. Only cases with a sport anchor are described. For traditional routes, you either have to leave some gear behind, or where appropriate and reasonably safe, use for example an equivocation hitch.
Lowering from a pre-built sport anchor
TODO
Lowering from bolts with maillons
TODO
Lowering directly from bolts or fixed ring
This method is forbidden by associations in some countries and places (traditional sandstone routes with rings) due to an increased bolts and fixed rings abrasion. This method cannot be used for lowering directly from hanger plates as the friction over the plates edges would severely damage the rope.