Lowering a lead climber from an anchor: Difference between revisions

Revision as of 04:04, 11 October 2025

This method is used for removing gear from a sport anchor, with a subsequent lowering of the lead climber. An alternative is to abseil from an anchor. For routes with trad anchors, you have either to leave some gear behind, or where it is appropriate and reasonably safe, use for example an equivocation hitch.

Lowering from a pre-built sport anchor

TODO

Lowering from bolts with maillons

TODO

Lowering directly from bolts or fixed ring

This method is forbidden by climbing associations in some countries and places. The ban is due to an increased bolts and fixed rings abrasion which leads to unnecessary and undesired shortening of the material replacement cycles. For example at traditional sandstone routes which are (due to a tradition) almost exclusively equipped with fixed rings, it would mean additional drilling into a rock which is often protected by a law due to nature preservation for further generations. In addition, this method cannot be used for lowering directly from hanger plates as the friction over the plates edges would severely damage the rope.

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-This page explains how to safely lower a lead climber who has reached an anchor, while cleaning-up the anchor. An alternative is to [[abseiling|abseil]] from an anchor. Only cases with a sport anchor are described. For traditional routes, you either have to leave some gear behind, or where appropriate and reasonably safe, use for example an equivocation hitch.
+This method is used for removing gear from a sport anchor, with a subsequent lowering of the lead climber. An alternative is to [[abseiling|abseil]] from an anchor. For routes with trad anchors, you have either to leave some gear behind, or where it is appropriate and reasonably safe, use for example an equivocation hitch.
 === Lowering from a pre-built sport anchor ===
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 === Lowering directly from bolts or fixed ring ===
-This method is forbidden by associations in some countries and places (traditional sandstone routes with rings) due to an increased bolts and fixed rings abrasion. This method cannot be used for lowering directly from hanger plates as the friction over the plates edges would severely damage the rope.
+This method is forbidden by climbing associations in some countries and places. The ban is due to an increased bolts and fixed rings abrasion which leads to unnecessary and undesired shortening of the material replacement cycles. For example at traditional sandstone routes which are (due to a tradition) almost exclusively equipped with fixed rings, it would mean additional drilling into a rock which is often protected by a law due to nature preservation for further generations. In addition, this method cannot be used for lowering directly from hanger plates as the friction over the plates edges would severely damage the rope.