Lowering a lead climber from an anchor: Difference between revisions
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This method is used for removing gear from a sport anchor, with a subsequent lowering of the lead climber. An alternative is to [[abseiling|abseil]] from an anchor. For routes with trad | This method is used for removing gear from a sport anchor, with a subsequent lowering of the lead climber. An alternative is to [[abseiling|abseil]] from an anchor. For routes with no fixed protection at the anchor point (trad), you have either to leave some gear behind, or where it is appropriate and reasonably safe, use for example abseil with an equivocation hitch. | ||
=== Lowering from a pre-built sport anchor === | === Lowering from a pre-built sport anchor === | ||
Revision as of 04:06, 11 October 2025
This method is used for removing gear from a sport anchor, with a subsequent lowering of the lead climber. An alternative is to abseil from an anchor. For routes with no fixed protection at the anchor point (trad), you have either to leave some gear behind, or where it is appropriate and reasonably safe, use for example abseil with an equivocation hitch.
Lowering from a pre-built sport anchor
TODO
Lowering from bolts with maillons
TODO
Lowering directly from bolts or fixed ring
This method is forbidden by climbing associations in some countries and places. The ban is due to an increased bolts and fixed rings abrasion which leads to unnecessary and undesired shortening of the material replacement cycles. For example at traditional sandstone routes which are (due to a tradition) almost exclusively equipped with fixed rings, it would mean additional drilling into a rock which is often protected by a law due to nature preservation for further generations. In addition, this method cannot be used for lowering directly from hanger plates as the friction over the plates edges would severely damage the rope.