|Tie a [[Figure_eight#On_a_bight_(tie_in_in_a_middle)|Figure 8 on a bight]] (2)
|File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step3.png
|180px
|Clip it to your harness belay loop by a carabiner (3) and screw its gate (4)
|File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step4.png
|90px
|Undo the Figure 8 by which you were originally tied-in (5)
|File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step5.png
|144px
|And completely untie the knot (6)
|File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step6.png
|180px
|Pull the loose end of the rope through the rappel ring (7)
|File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step7.png
|180px
|Once the rope is through you got to attach it back to yourself
|File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step8.png
|180px
|[[Figure_eight#Follow-through_(tie-in_on_the_rope_end)|Tie-in by a Figure 8]] (8)
|File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step9.png
|180px
|You will get lowered on this knot, inspect that it is tied properly and through both of the harness loops (9)
|File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step10.png
|180px
|Unscrew the carabiner (10), detach it from your haness (11) and untie the Figure 8 on a bight (12)
|File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step13.png
|180px
|Now remove the two carabiners for the toprope from the setup (13)
|File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step14.png
|180px
|Ask belayer to block to test the setup before removing your personal anchor (14)
|File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step15.png
|180px
|Inspect that both tie-in (15) and threading of the rope through the anchor rappel ring (16) are correct
|File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step17.png
|180px
|Unscrew (17) and clean-up (18) the rest of your parts of the anchor
|File:prebuilt_lowering_detailed_step19.png
|180px
|And get lowered (19) by a belayer
}}
=== Lowering from a pre-built sport anchor - quick method ===
TODO
TODO
Revision as of 08:29, 12 October 2025
This method is used for removing gear from a sport anchor, with a subsequent lowering of the lead climber. An alternative is to abseil from an anchor. For routes with no fixed protection at the anchor point (trad), you have either to leave some gear behind, or where it is appropriate and reasonably safe, use for example abseil with an equivocation hitch.
Lowering from a pre-built sport anchor - quick method
TODO
Lowering from bolts with maillons
TODO
Lowering directly from bolts or fixed ring
This method is forbidden by climbing associations in some countries and places. The ban is due to an increased bolts and fixed rings abrasion which leads to unnecessary and undesired shortening of the material replacement cycles. For example at traditional sandstone routes which are (due to a tradition) almost exclusively equipped with fixed rings, it would mean additional drilling into a rock which is often protected by a law due to nature preservation for further generations. In addition, this method cannot be used for lowering directly from hanger plates as the friction over the plates edges would severely damage the rope.
