Munter hitch/en: Difference between revisions
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Munter hitch (also known as HMS) is an essential knot used for belaying in occasions when a belay device cannot be used. It is also used in advanced rope techniques (for example rescue techniques). | Munter hitch (also known as HMS) is an essential knot used for belaying in occasions when a belay device cannot be used. It is also used in advanced rope techniques (for example rescue techniques). | ||
== Tying == | == Tying == | ||
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== Belaying == | == Belaying == | ||
Always hold the break strand! Belaying with Munter hitch is reliable and reasonably comfortable. Munter works smoothly when not loaded, yet giving friction to catch a fall once tensioned. It blocks regardless of the angle of the breaking hand. The main reason why it is used less often is that if the rope is pulled through the hitch under tension, Munter tends to tangle the rope. | Always hold the break strand! Belaying with Munter hitch is reliable and reasonably comfortable. Munter works smoothly when not loaded, yet giving friction to catch a fall once tensioned. It blocks regardless of the angle of the breaking hand. The main reason why it is used less often is that if the rope is pulled through the hitch under tension, Munter tends to tangle the rope. | ||
=== Belaying risks === | === Belaying risks === | ||
When belaying with Munter hitch, aside from always holding the break strand, belayer should pay attention to keep fingers at a respectful distance from the knot, otherwise he might risk jamming his fingers into the belay, which might result in a severe finger injury. Belayer should also ensure to tie the Munter in a way that it does not interfere with the carabiner gate/lock. Otherwise the rope friction might unlock, and maybe even open the gate of the carabiner. | When belaying with Munter hitch, aside from always holding the break strand, belayer should pay attention to keep fingers at a respectful distance from the knot, otherwise he might risk jamming his fingers into the belay, which might result in a severe finger injury. Belayer should also ensure to tie the Munter in a way that it does not interfere with the carabiner gate/lock. Otherwise the rope friction might unlock, and maybe even open the gate of the carabiner. | ||
[[File: Munter_fingers_safe.png|144px]] | |||
[[File: Munter_fingers.png|144px]] | [[File: Munter_fingers.png|144px]] | ||
[[File: Hms_harness_step0.png|120px]] | |||
[[File: Hms belay with climber.png|120px]] | |||
[[File: hms_belay_left_top.png|120px]] | [[File: hms_belay_left_top.png|120px]] | ||
[[File: hms_belay_left_bot.png|120px]] | [[File: hms_belay_left_bot.png|120px]] | ||
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== | == Alternative tying methods == | ||
=== Single hand method === | === Single hand method === | ||