Carabiner: Difference between revisions
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Although certified climbing carabiners are generally very safe if used properly, in some cases strength and reliability of the carabiners gets compromised by improper handling. Also in some applications, safe practice requires using a carabiner with a various level and type of the gate-opening protection. | Although certified climbing carabiners are generally very safe if used properly, in some cases strength and reliability of the carabiners gets compromised by improper handling. Also in some applications, safe practice requires using a carabiner with a various level and type of the gate-opening protection. | ||
Prevent carabiners from cross-loading, they are usually still able to carry up to ~7 kN, but their strength is heavily reduced. In case of wired rope, it might also induce a rope strain if the rope is directed over the gate. Prevent placing carabiner gate towards the rock face and/or the rock features, it might open the gate. You can prevent this easily by orienting the gate in a free direction. | |||
[[File: | [[File:crossload.png | 120 px]] | ||
[[File: | [[File:gate_rock.png | 120 px]] | ||
[[File:gate_rock_fix.png | 120 px]] | |||
Do not place carabiners in a way that they would be loaded against a rock edge. HowNOT2 recorded a measurement where he cracked a sideway-loaded carabiner below 4 kN. That means there is very realistic chance the carabiner could fail during a lead-climb fall. If you want to secure yourself to a bolt or a piton in such an inappropriate position, extend the bolt by a sling or a rope. | |||
[[File:carabine_edge_1.png | 120 px]] | |||
[[File:carabine_edge_2.png | 120 px]] | |||
[[File:carabine_edge_fix_1.png | 120 px]] | |||
[[File:carabine_edge_fix_2.png | 120 px]] | |||
== Gate types == | == Gate types == | ||