Carabiner: Difference between revisions

Line 14:

Prevent carabiners from cross-loading, they are usually still able to carry up to ~7 kN, but that is substantially lower than their usual strength. In case of a wired-gate carabiner, it might also induce a rope strain if the rope is directed over the gate. Prevent placing carabiner gate towards the rock face and/or the rock features, it might open the gate. You can prevent this easily by orienting the gate in a free direction.

[[File:crossload.png | ~~120 px]]~~

[[File:gate_rock_fix.png | ~~120 px]]~~

File:crossload.png | Avoid cross-loading

[[File:gate_rock.png | ~~120 px]]~~

File:gate_rock_fix.png | Inspect the carabiner surroundings, orient the gate into a free space

File:gate_rock.png | Unintended opening of the carabiner might have fatal consequences

</gallery>

Do not place carabiners in a way that they would be loaded against a rock edge. HowNOT2 recorded a measurement where he cracked a sideway-loaded carabiner below 4 kN. That means there is very realistic chance the carabiner could fail during a lead-climb fall. If you want to secure yourself to a bolt or a piton in such an inappropriate position, extend the bolt by a sling or a rope.

[[File:carabine_edge_1.png | ~~120 px]]~~

[[File:carabine_edge_2.png | ~~120 px]]~~

File:carabine_edge_1.png | Positioning carabiner over an edge atypically loads the carabiner

[[File:carabine_edge_fix_1.png | ~~120 px]]~~

File:carabine_edge_2.png | Carabiner might easily bend, or even collapse

[[File:carabine_edge_fix_2.png | ~~120 px]]~~

File:carabine_edge_fix_1.png | Offset of the carabiner by a sling

File:carabine_edge_fix_2.png | Offset of the carabiner by a rope

</gallery>

== Gate types ==

@@ Line 14: / Line 14: @@
 Prevent carabiners from cross-loading, they are usually still able to carry up to ~7 kN, but that is substantially lower than their usual strength. In case of a wired-gate carabiner, it might also induce a rope strain if the rope is directed over the gate. Prevent placing carabiner gate towards the rock face and/or the rock features, it might open the gate. You can prevent this easily by orienting the gate in a free direction.
-[[File:crossload.png | 120 px]]
+<gallery mode=nolines widths=120px heights=600px>
-[[File:gate_rock_fix.png | 120 px]]
+File:crossload.png | Avoid cross-loading
-[[File:gate_rock.png | 120 px]]
+File:gate_rock_fix.png | Inspect the carabiner surroundings, orient the gate into a free space
+File:gate_rock.png | Unintended opening of the carabiner might have fatal consequences
+</gallery>
 Do not place carabiners in a way that they would be loaded against a rock edge. HowNOT2 recorded a measurement where he cracked a sideway-loaded carabiner below 4 kN. That means there is very realistic chance the carabiner could fail during a lead-climb fall. If you want to secure yourself to a bolt or a piton in such an inappropriate position, extend the bolt by a sling or a rope.
-[[File:carabine_edge_1.png | 120 px]]
+<gallery mode=nolines widths=120px heights=600px>
-[[File:carabine_edge_2.png | 120 px]]
+File:carabine_edge_1.png | Positioning carabiner over an edge atypically loads the carabiner
-[[File:carabine_edge_fix_1.png | 120 px]]
+File:carabine_edge_2.png | Carabiner might easily bend, or even collapse
-[[File:carabine_edge_fix_2.png | 120 px]]
+File:carabine_edge_fix_1.png | Offset of the carabiner by a sling
+File:carabine_edge_fix_2.png | Offset of the carabiner by a rope
+</gallery>
 == Gate types ==