Carabiner: Difference between revisions
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Do not place carabiners in a way that they would be loaded against a rock edge. HowNOT2 recorded a measurement where he cracked a sideway-loaded carabiner below 4 kN. That means there is very realistic chance the carabiner could fail during a lead-climb fall. If you want to secure yourself to a bolt or a piton in such an inappropriate position, extend the bolt by a sling or a rope. | Do not place carabiners in a way that they would be loaded against a rock edge. HowNOT2 recorded a measurement where he cracked a sideway-loaded carabiner below 4 kN. That means there is very realistic chance the carabiner could fail during a lead-climb fall. If you want to secure yourself to a bolt or a piton in such an inappropriate position, extend the bolt by a sling or a rope. | ||
< | <div><ul> | ||
File:carabine_edge_1.png | Positioning carabiner over an edge atypically loads the carabiner | <li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top;">[[File:carabine_edge_1.png | thumb | none | 120px | Positioning carabiner over an edge atypically loads the carabiner]] </li> | ||
File:carabine_edge_2.png | Carabiner might easily bend, or even collapse | <li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top;">[[File:carabine_edge_2.png | thumb | none | 120px | Carabiner might easily bend, or even collapse]] </li> | ||
File:carabine_edge_fix_1.png | Offset of the carabiner by a sling | <li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top;">[[File:carabine_edge_fix_1.png | thumb | none | 120px | Offset of the carabiner by a sling]] </li> | ||
File:carabine_edge_fix_2.png | Offset of the carabiner by a rope | <li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top;">[[File:carabine_edge_fix_2.png | thumb | none | 120px | Offset of the carabiner by a rope]] </li> | ||
</ | </ul></div> | ||
== Gate types == | == Gate types == | ||