Carabiner: Difference between revisions

testing - formatting
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File:gate_rock.png | Unintended opening of the carabiner might have fatal consequences
File:gate_rock.png | Unintended opening of the carabiner might have fatal consequences
</gallery>
</gallery>
{{#invoke:FlexGallery|hi
|120
|File:crossload.png
|Avoid cross-loading
|File:gate_rock_fix.png
|Inspect the carabiner surroundings, orient the gate into a free space
|File:gate_rock.png
|Unintended opening of the carabiner might have fatal consequences
}}




Do not place carabiners in a way that they would be loaded against a rock edge. HowNOT2 recorded a measurement where he cracked a sideway-loaded carabiner below 4 kN. That means there is very realistic chance the carabiner could fail during a lead-climb fall. If you want to secure yourself to a bolt or a piton in such an inappropriate position, extend the bolt by a sling or a rope.
Do not place carabiners in a way that they would be loaded against a rock edge. HowNOT2 recorded a measurement where he cracked a sideway-loaded carabiner below 4 kN. That means there is very realistic chance the carabiner could fail during a lead-climb fall. If you want to secure yourself to a bolt or a piton in such an inappropriate position, extend the bolt by a sling or a rope.


<div><ul>
{{#invoke:FlexGallery|hi
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top;">[[File:carabine_edge_1.png | thumb | none | 120px | Positioning carabiner over an edge atypically loads the carabiner]] </li>
|120
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top;">[[File:carabine_edge_2.png | thumb | none | 120px | Carabiner might easily bend, or even collapse]] </li>
|File:carabine_edge_1.png
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top;">[[File:carabine_edge_fix_1.png | thumb | none | 120px | Offset of the carabiner by a sling]] </li>
|Positioning carabiner over an edge atypically loads the carabiner
<li style="display: inline-block; vertical-align: top;">[[File:carabine_edge_fix_2.png | thumb | none | 120px | Offset of the carabiner by a rope]] </li>
|File:carabine_edge_2.png
</ul></div>
|Carabiner might easily bend, or even collapse
|File:carabine_edge_fix_1.png
|Offset of the carabiner by a sling
|File:carabine_edge_fix_2.png
|Offset of the carabiner by a rope
}}


== Gate types ==
== Gate types ==