Carabiner: Difference between revisions
No edit summary |
|||
| Line 14: | Line 14: | ||
Prevent carabiners from cross-loading, they are usually still able to carry up to ~7 kN, but that is substantially lower than their usual strength. In case of a wired-gate carabiner, it might also induce a rope strain if the rope is directed over the gate. Prevent placing carabiner gate towards the rock face and/or the rock features, it might open the gate. You can prevent this easily by orienting the gate in a free direction. | Prevent carabiners from cross-loading, they are usually still able to carry up to ~7 kN, but that is substantially lower than their usual strength. In case of a wired-gate carabiner, it might also induce a rope strain if the rope is directed over the gate. Prevent placing carabiner gate towards the rock face and/or the rock features, it might open the gate. You can prevent this easily by orienting the gate in a free direction. | ||
{{#invoke:FlexGallery| | {{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery | ||
|120 | |120 | ||
|File:crossload.png | |File:crossload.png | ||
| Line 27: | Line 27: | ||
Do not place carabiners in a way that they would be loaded against a rock edge. HowNOT2 recorded a measurement where he cracked a sideway-loaded carabiner below 4 kN. That means there is very realistic chance the carabiner could fail during a lead-climb fall. If you want to secure yourself to a bolt or a piton in such an inappropriate position, extend the bolt by a sling or a rope. | Do not place carabiners in a way that they would be loaded against a rock edge. HowNOT2 recorded a measurement where he cracked a sideway-loaded carabiner below 4 kN. That means there is very realistic chance the carabiner could fail during a lead-climb fall. If you want to secure yourself to a bolt or a piton in such an inappropriate position, extend the bolt by a sling or a rope. | ||
{{#invoke:FlexGallery| | {{#invoke:FlexGallery|gallery | ||
|120 | |120 | ||
|File:carabine_edge_1.png | |File:carabine_edge_1.png | ||